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Could be a lot of things (i.e. thermostat, heater control valve...) Does the temperature gauge reach normal (1/2 way) temps?
Check to see if the control valve is working. Here's one way to do it. On the passengers side, remote the lower panel just under the glove box. Should be a couple of plastic pins holding it in. With the car running at normal temperature, move the hot/cold slider lever to HOT, then to cold slowly and see if the valve (located on top of the heater core) is moving. I "think" the heater control panel is vacuum operated and you may have a split in the plastic hose(s). Listen for a vacuum leak...
Good Luck. I hope this helps.
Check coolant level. Start cold with cap off and add coolant as necessary with HEATER ON, while running. Let it get up to operating temperature and rad fan comes on 2 or 3 times, then make sure topped up and put cap back on.
this problem is caused by a sticking air temperature control blend door actuator or blend door, this door moves back and forth to get the desired temp, the actuator is electronic and prone to this type of problem, suggest u replace it.
You have a broken wire connection between the temperature control knob and the circuit board behind the center dash console. Vibration causes the failure and once the control knob gets loose the solder connection fails.
For someone that knows how to remove the dash unit and can re-solder a couple of new wires this fix should take no more than 1 hour. Make sure that you apply loctite to the heat control knob spindle nut when you re-assemble it.
The dealer quoted me 750 dollars to fix this issue and I found out that it's a common failure for this year. I fixed mine virtually for free but it took some tools and about an hour of my time.
check your in cabin air filter located behing the glove compartment. see your owner's manual for directions.
When this filter gets clogged air flow is restricted. You can blow the filter out with compressed air or replace. make sure you put in right side up.
I would think the door you hear flapping is the door that controls the airflow across the heater coil - and the fan keeps blowing the door closed, preventing the airflow from going across the heating coil. I don't know whether this vehicle is vacum controlled or cable controlled - so either it's a disconnected cable, or a leaking vacum line.
If you have the heater control up front on the floor or on defrost you should check that the heat is not blowing from under the d/p seats. If you move the heater control to dash you should have it coming out the top vents.
You could be having a coolant problem and need to check that first, If coolant level is normal you might have a thermostat going out. Both will cause your heat not to warm up at normal speed. If you need any thing let me know.
Similar problem on my Saturn, the air control knob is the slider above the temperature slide, it is a lever attached to a wire. It moves the vane to redirect the air, if it will not move then something is blocking the vane or the cable is jammed. If it slides back and forth without any effort then the cable as come disconnected inside. Purchase a service guide and it will explain how to remove the controls and check. It will also show where the cable attaches to the ductwork behind the dash.
Could be a couple of things. The first thing that I would check would be the coolant level in the radiator, if that is low it can cause the heater not to blow hot air. The second thing I would find out is if the control to change from cold to hot is actually working? ( if it is a manual slider then the cable might have come off of the control behind the dash...if it is digital then there may be a wire off?) The third thing it might be is that your Heater Core went bad and will need to replaced. As I said above, I would check the coolant level first and go from there. Hope it helps!