Question about Chevrolet S 10

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Piston on new slave cylinder not moving

Replaced the whole system (master, slave and line) gravity bled it and still no pedal. I removed the inspection plate cover and see that the output from the slave is properly aligned and in place but does not move at all when pressure is applied to clutch pedal.

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  • Chevrolet Master
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Gravity will not bleed the system as you need pressure in the master cylinder to bleed out the air. Once you have pressure bled the system you will have a good clutch

Posted on Nov 16, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: replaced slave cylinder 2004 ford ranger 4x4 still no pedal

I had the same problem with my 1995 1500 p.u.. Assuming your clutch slave cylinder is the concentric style. If not disregard. I hate that set up. what the hell was wrong with the old outside of the bell housing slave/ mechanical style fork and throw out bearing bla bla? Its because ford as well of the rest of the lovely auto makers decided long ago to make them as hard as hell to repair on you own. Ive been told theres a spsecial tool just for this bleeding task. Pobably. They make those tools to sell to us so they can further profit from us poor suckers.Also I wonder on your model if its concentric, does it have the difficult sized bleeder valve as mine did? or have they gotten a little more user friendly? doubt it. In my case as this style is a closed system I followed the bleeding intructions to a tee. That did get alot more clutch action for me, after 15 attempts.However I do believe the problem after looking and further inspection under the dash? look up under the dash and inspect your pedal rack and frame. I found mine was cracked and the cause of poor aliegnment. check for that rite away. I located another rack but before I got around to replacing it, the tranny blew, and the trucks sitting on my dads property. Its still a danmed good truck and one of these days I will get on it again. Anyway up untill the tranny blew I was never able to get more than half the distance from the pedal and besides the rack problem I would love to know the bleeding anser, that is if Im off target. Going to be up against it again when I replace that transmission. Hope this helps a little. Food for thought maybe? If you find out something more helpful post it so I will know too.

Posted on Dec 22, 2008

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Clutch has no resistance, stays near floor after applying pressur

I had this same problem on my last 91 accord. You most likely have air in the line. I had to bleed the line for the master cylinder, and then refill the clutch popped up right off the floor. As long as it is not continuious then I would try this. All I needed was a wrench. and i didnt cost me anything. Hope this helps, if you buy the book it will show you how to do it, just look under clutch it will show you how to bleed it. Good Luck.

Posted on Mar 17, 2009

  • 6982 Answers

SOURCE: 1990 wrangler all new slave cylinder, pressure

If you have had the flywheel cut, have a clutch with a different release height (different finger or diaphram design & height) or a remanufactured pressure plate, or all of the above, you may run into this problem.
Small differences there translate to a large difference at the pedal. On linkage type designs, there were several options including longer/shorter throwout bearing or adjustable fork pivot ball. Hydraulic systems should compensate somewhat, but if you are beyond the travel of the slave cyl, I'm not sure there is anything you can do from the outside. I would check that there are no air leaks. If you have an external slave cylinder you may be able to make a slightly longer rod that connects the slave to the clutch fork. I really can't think of anything else to do at this point.
Hope this helps a bit.

Posted on Apr 19, 2009

  • 490 Answers

SOURCE: i have A 1998 FORD RANGER EXT. CAB W/ 6 CYL.- 4.0

Take the top off the master cyl and slowly very slow push in on the clutch and watch for any bubbles comming up.Replace the top and pump pressure and bleed at the master direct by using the lines for bleeders.

Posted on Aug 13, 2009

  • 33 Answers

SOURCE: clutch pedal stays 2 the floor on a hydralic

Did you bleed the system? When you replace the the master and/or slave cylinder you have to bleed the system just as you would with brakes. There is a bleed screw on the slave cylinder. Open the bleed screw, have a helper depress and hold the clutch pedal down.Tighten the bleed screw, then release clutch. Repeat this procedure until you have removed all air from the system and the clutch pedal is firm. Keep an eye on the fluid level to avoid sucking air into the system. If you have done this, remember there is a possibility that the master or slave cylinder is defective.

Posted on Sep 06, 2009

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Hi:
If you have bled the system, you are down to either having a bad clutch master cylinder, or a bad clutch slave cylinder. You could eliminate the slave cylinder by removing the line and capping it off, and if you have a firm pressure on the clutch pedal ( don;'t try to push it down, just check for pressure!) then your slave cylinder is bad. If you cap off the line, and bleed the system, and the pedal still has no pressure, then your clutch master cylinder is bad!

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