Question about 1997 Ford Escort
Pulled the wire off the sending unit and the gauge went to cold.I REPLACED THE SENDING UNIT IT STARTED TO WORK NORMAL,then right away it went to hot. Engine is not over heating.
Was this the original problem with the gauge? If so you have problem with a wire shorting to ground from your sending unit to the gauge. If the problem arose as a result of the sending unit replacement, the new sending unit is defective.
Posted on Nov 16, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: u1073 scp code
This is partly an answer to part of your question, and part clarification request
According to: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/141841-odometer-test-codes.html the U1073 SCP is defined as:
"U1073 SCP (J1850) Invalid or Missing Data for Engine Coolant PCM REFER to Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual"
Okay.... I need to research what exactly the above means, but I also need a little more information from you.
Get back to me by posting a comment to your problem with whatever further information you can gather and also by sending me an e-mail at firstname.lastname@example.org so that I'll know to check that information, and in the meantime I'll check with some of my Ford tech friends as to the signicance of the U1073 SCP code.
Posted on Jun 19, 2008
SOURCE: No Heat in 99 Taurus
Just finished fixing my daughters 1999 taurus heat. It would blow warm only when running down the road. At idle it blew cold. I started with replacing thermostat, and water pump because they are the easier fix. Still did not help. Then I replaced the heater core. A daunting job but not that hard to move the dash slighly out of the way to replace. There is a good write up at tarusclub.com. After that, heat was better but at idle, it would still blow cool sometimes. Researched and found answer. Park car on the steepest hill you can find with front of car up. Start car and take off reservoir cap. Let car warm up and keep rpms about 1500. After a while the fluid will come running out of the car and all over the place but it will bring air bubbles with it. Reduce rpm, add more fluid and repeat about 3 times. It will make a mess but after that, the heater works perfectly. We get heat long before the temp gage indicates any and it never blows cold unless you lower the temp.
Posted on Nov 27, 2008
SOURCE: teampreature gauge not working
Sounds like you have installed a 'over-temperature switch' type sender unit- this type of sensor is only meant to control an over-temperature alarm indicator lamp that is either 'on' or 'off'.
The temperature gauge requires a 'variable resistance type' temperarure sensor to control the meter deflection.
When cold the temperature sensor is of high resistance, hence less meter deflection;
when hot temperature sensor is of low resistance, hence more meter deflection.
You need to procure a matching sensor to suit the type of gauge installed.
Is it possible you have connected to the temperature wrong temperature sensor? - most vehicles are fitted with both a gauge type (variable resistance) sensor to drive the temperature gauge, as well as a switch type (on or off) sensor to drive the overtemp indicator light.
Posted on Jun 03, 2009
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