Question about 1997 Ford Escort

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Temp gauge goes all the way to hot replaced the sending unit worked for a little while. still goes all the way to hot

Pulled the wire off the sending unit and the gauge went to cold.I REPLACED THE SENDING UNIT IT STARTED TO WORK NORMAL,then right away it went to hot. Engine is not over heating.

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Was this the original problem with the gauge? If so you have problem with a wire shorting to ground from your sending unit to the gauge. If the problem arose as a result of the sending unit replacement, the new sending unit is defective.

Posted on Nov 16, 2013


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: u1073 scp code

Hi MaddMD!

This is partly an answer to part of your question, and part clarification request

According to: the U1073 SCP is defined as:
"U1073 SCP (J1850) Invalid or Missing Data for Engine Coolant PCM REFER to Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual"

Okay.... I need to research what exactly the above means, but I also need a little more information from you.

  • What engine do you have?
  • Were there any malfunction indicator lights (MILs)?
  • How did the overheating occur (stopped at idle, going down the road, A/C on or off?), and how drastic was it? (i.e.: Was there loss of engine oil, any significant smoking or steam out of the engine bay, significant loss of power?)
  • Do you know what caused it to overheat? (Low coolant, fan failure, broken belt, water pump problem, stuck thermostat)
  • What prompted you to change the temp sensor?
  • Is it an electric or engine driven radiator fan?
The way you describe the situation now, without considering the code, it sounds like the radiator fan is not moving enough air across the radiator to remove heat from the coolant. Turning the heater on causes the heater core to act as a kind of substirute radiator and thus lowering the engine temp. This can be verified, if the truck is driveable, by going down some open road with the heater on to cool the engine, switching off the heater and then see if the temp comes back up while moving at least 30 mph or if it stays down. If it stays down while moving, try stopping and idling for a couple of minutes and see if the temp then goes hot... If so, the fan is not working as it should and should be looked at. Don't let it get too hot, and see if you can get it to an AutoZone to have them perform a free diagnostic scan and see what OBD-II trouble codes are set.

Get back to me by posting a comment to your problem with whatever further information you can gather and also by sending me an e-mail at so that I'll know to check that information, and in the meantime I'll check with some of my Ford tech friends as to the signicance of the U1073 SCP code.


Posted on Jun 19, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: No Heat in 99 Taurus

Just finished fixing my daughters 1999 taurus heat. It would blow warm only when running down the road. At idle it blew cold. I started with replacing thermostat, and water pump because they are the easier fix. Still did not help. Then I replaced the heater core. A daunting job but not that hard to move the dash slighly out of the way to replace. There is a good write up at After that, heat was better but at idle, it would still blow cool sometimes. Researched and found answer. Park car on the steepest hill you can find with front of car up. Start car and take off reservoir cap. Let car warm up and keep rpms about 1500. After a while the fluid will come running out of the car and all over the place but it will bring air bubbles with it. Reduce rpm, add more fluid and repeat about 3 times. It will make a mess but after that, the heater works perfectly. We get heat long before the temp gage indicates any and it never blows cold unless you lower the temp.

Posted on Nov 27, 2008

  • 6674 Answers

SOURCE: Heater is blowing luke warm heat

Double checking, does fun shut off when switched to heat instead of defrost?

Posted on Jan 24, 2009

  • 534 Answers

SOURCE: teampreature gauge not working

Sounds like you have installed a 'over-temperature switch' type sender unit- this type of sensor is only meant to control an over-temperature alarm indicator lamp that is either 'on' or 'off'.

The temperature gauge requires a 'variable resistance type' temperarure sensor to control the meter deflection.
When cold the temperature sensor is of high resistance, hence less meter deflection;
when hot temperature sensor is of low resistance, hence more meter deflection.

You need to procure a matching sensor to suit the type of gauge installed.

Is it possible you have connected to the temperature wrong temperature sensor? - most vehicles are fitted with both a gauge type (variable resistance) sensor to drive the temperature gauge, as well as a switch type (on or off) sensor to drive the overtemp indicator light.

Posted on Jun 03, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Temp gauge fluctuates from normal, up to blow Hot,

Sounds like a head gasket problem

Posted on Sep 18, 2009

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