1994 BMW 7 Series Logo

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Katherine Hunt Posted on Dec 07, 2017
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Brake pedal not fully returning

The brakes locked up and we discovered that the brake pedal was not fully returning so it was acting like I was still pressing the brake pedal so the car would stop while trying to drive. We have done lubrication and replaced the brake booster. The brake pedal is still not returning please help not sure what to do now

1 Answer

Bill Boyd

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  • BMW Master 53,816 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 07, 2017
Bill Boyd
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Joined: Jan 04, 2013
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Indicates a brake master cylinder internal failure
take it to a brake specialist shop for a proper diagnosis
If the brake system has not seen a service or component for the past 5 years , a replacement master cylinder is the professional fix

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 6966 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 29, 2008

SOURCE: I have a 2002 745Li

Hi,

If you are "stuck in the Mountains", then it would be relatively dangerous to go back down if the vehicle's computer senses any malfunction in the braking system. Even your emergency brakes are also giving a warning. Since your vehicle is experiencing multiple malfunctions, either the sensors are reading wrong inputs, there is something really big wrong with the car or the car's computer is having a glitch. If even after performing the below listed steps and the warnings are still there and/or you are not comfortable with the brakes, then it perhaps would be wise to seek qualified professional assistance and consider alternative ways of going back down.

In most cars, the on board computer could be reset by removing the negative terminal of the battery. Some requires that this be done with the ignition turned ON but engine not running. Likewise, there are some car stereos that will go into protective mode (security lock) when the battery terminals are removed and would require a "code".

On the brake, pls look under your vehicle, there could be sensors that were disconnected. For the brakes, they would normally be at the back of each wheel. Additonally, parking brake lights would also come on if the brake fluid level is below minimum or if the brake pads have reached a pre-determined level of thickness (or thinness in this case).

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards.

Thank you for using FixYa.

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jan 12, 2009

SOURCE: BMW 325-e4 clutch

your clutch slave cyclinder underneath the car is probbably leaking

Anonymous

  • 243 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 26, 2009

SOURCE: Clutch pedal drops when I apply brake, so can't change gears

I suppose your clutch master or slave cylinder is leaking. You must keep an eye on the brake flui leven and drive to a workshop for a check asap. You can use DOT3 brake fluid.

Anonymous

  • 20 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 02, 2009

SOURCE: 318is with NO brakes

What about the brake lines? They could have a tiny hole somewhere letting air in (or just have air in them).

sj196653

Shade Tree All Repair

  • 509 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 12, 2010

SOURCE: hi.. i have a bmw 850i year 1994 ...my bmw 850i

sounds like an abs control problem if i am understanding you correctly

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0helpful
1answer

2005 Hyundai Tucson front right and left rear tires locked up. Already replaced master cylinder and calipers

I am guessing either the brake pedal linkage is maladjusted or there is no clearance between the brake booster pushrod and master cylinder piston preventing the piston from fully returning...
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1answer

Brakes lock up while driving i've replace both front calipers and master cly.check vavle,could it be the booster

This can be caused by such things as the brake pedal failing to return all the way up, or by misadjustment of the pedal linkage, or even the booster having some internal damage such that the master cylinder can't return fully. There must be a small amount of free play at each of these linkage points.
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Why won't my parking brake pedal stay down?

Most parking brake pedals work with a dog and pawl , much like a row of saw type teeth that have a small pivoting stop which catches in the teeth to lock down the pedal. If the pivot does not fully engage to teeth because of dirt or rust the pedal will return to its original position. This may also happen if the release cable in not fully returning. You can try pushing on the release handle rather than pulling and see if your pedal now locks in place. You can lube these parts with a can of spray lithium grease but be sure to protect your carpet and pedals so they do not get stained or become slippery. Mask areas off with newspaper or cardboard. Work the pedal and release cable a few times. It will usually free up any binding parts. I hope this helps!
0helpful
2answers

While im driving it will start locking and unlocking itself rapidly and now whenever i get out and lock it, it will just unlock again and wont stay locked. please help

It might be the Shifter Lock - Unlock switch. Use the following to check:
Look under the dash, on the brake pedal arm. There are one or two switches that activate brake lights and/or shift unlock. Check for loose mounting nut or a missing rubber nubber. Is the brake pedal coming all the way back up? Look on the floor for something not usually found there. These switches are adjustable and it may be as simple as adjusting them. Have a helper look for brake lights on and shift lever unlocked while you push and release the switches with your finger. Depress the brake pedal to get it out of the way. Remember to set the park brake first. Could just be a bad switch or loose connector. Check fuses and the bulbs. Is shifter fully in Park? Also try jiggling the turn signal lever.
Make sure the return spring on brake pedal works properly holding pedal up firmly. It could be "jiggling" while you drive.
1helpful
1answer

I have a 1996 Volvo 850 Wagon. I discovered today that none of the brake lights come on when the brake pedal is depressed, (even fully). All 3 brake light bulbs are OK, no error message on the dash, and...

disconnect the wires from the brake pedal switch, put an ohm meter across the connectors and move the plunger in and out. if there is a short one way and an open the other way, the switch is good. if there is no change in resistance, based on the plunger position, then the switch is bad.
0helpful
1answer

Driver side front brake keeps locking up we have changed the Caliper rotor and pads 3 times now, what do I look at next

Your MOST LIKELY problem is a defective brake hose. The hoses are made up of several layers. There is a rubber outer shell and a steel or kevlar reinforcement and a silicone-based inner lining that will resist the brake fluid and prevent the brake fluid from eating the other layers. What happens is that the inner lining tears loose inside and acts like a "heart valve" The liner will expand when dthe pedal is applied and allow fluid to be pushed into the caliper under pressure. However, when the brake pedal is released, the hose collapses and prevents the fluid from returning to the master cylinder.

The way to diagnose this condition is like this:

Raise and support the vehicle and remove the tire on the side that keeps destroying brake pads.
start the engine and press ******* the brake pedal and then release the brake pedal.
Turn the engine off and check to see if the caliper has the wheel locked up.
If it does, then open the bleeder screw on the caliper. The fluid should squirt out under pressure and the caliper will release the wheel. If it does, replace the hose.
0helpful
1answer

I have a 1998 F150 4x2. When the breaks are engaged the truck comes to a stop.However, when u remove your foot the pedal does not return. the fluid is ok and the pads/shoes are new. If u pull the pedal...

Hello, This sounds like a bad Master cylinder or brake booster. I would try replacing the Master cylinder first as Power boosters rarely stick. Since the brake pads/shoes are new, the pedal must have returned to a neutral position when the brakes were bled.

There is 1 other possibility. Collapse of the rubber portion of the brake hoses. When the inside portion of the rubber brake hose deteriorates, the rubber acts like a one way flap or valve. You only have pressure exerted to the calipers or to the rear drums. The system relies on gravity once you release the pedal.

The collapsed hoses prevent the fluid from returning to the Master Cylinder. It would be unusual for all 4 brakelines to do this at one time. I would suggest you jack up each wheel when the brakes are locked and try to turn them. Remember to have the gearshift in Neutral and block some wheels for safety. You want the differential to allow you to turn the rear wheels.

Go check all the wheels, one by one, and you may find that only one wheel is keeping your truck from moving. That would be the wheel with the bad brake hose.

I hope my solution is very helpful to you.
2helpful
1answer

My break light swithes on sometimes without me even pressing the breaks. The break light also sometimes stays on even when I have taken my feet off the break. I have tried changed the break light switch...

Did you adjust the brake light switch correctly? To adjust the brake light switch, first press the brake pedal down a few inches, then pull the switch plunger rod out of the switch toward the brake pedal arm, as far as you can without using excessive force. Next, return the brake pedal to the pedal stop position against the pedal stop and pull the brake pedal toward the rear to push the brake light switch actuating plunger rod into the switch housing limited by the travel of the brake pedal arm rear travel stop position. This procedure automatically adjusts the brake light switch correctly.
If the brake lights still don't turn off with the brake pedal released, check the brake pedal arm for sticking or binding that is preventing the brake pedal arm from returning fully to the pedal stop when the brake is released.
0helpful
1answer

Brake lights are stayin on

Check brake pedal height, and see if pulling up on the pedal gets rid of the brake lights staying on.

Maybe the lines have to be bled to get rid of air in the brake lines.

Or, the rear brakes should be adjusted tighter.

If this is not the problem, maybe adjusting the brake light switch will help.

---
ADJUSTMENT Dakota Models
  1. Push and hold the brake pedal in the applied position.
  2. Push the switch forward until fully seated against the bracket.
  3. Release the brake pedal.
  4. Lightly pull the brake pedal rearward until the master cylinder pushrod bottoms against its internal stop. The switch plunger is now set at its proper clearance.
1989-93 Pick-Up and Ramcharger Models WITHOUT SPEED CONTROL
  1. Loosen the switch-to-pedal bracket screw and slide the switch away from the pedal arm.
  2. Push the pedal down by hand and allow it to return on its own to the free-hanging position. Do not pull it back! Fig. 1: Brake light switch adjustment specifications - 1989-93 models 88479g01.gif

  3. Slide the switch towards the pedal until there is a gap of 0.140 in. (3.5mm) between the plunger and pedal arm. NOTE: The pedal must not move when measuring the gap.
  4. Tighten the switch screw to 82 inch lbs. (9 Nm). Recheck the gap.
WITH SPEED CONTROL
  1. Push the switch through the clip in the mounting bracket until it is seated against the bracket. The pedal will move forward slightly.
  2. Gently pull back on the pedal as far as it will go. The switch will ratchet backwards to the correct position.
1994-96 Pick-Up Models This procedure calls for setting the switch prior to installation. Installation directions are included in this one procedure.
  1. Preset the switch in the following manner:
    1. Pull the switch plunger all the way out until it is fully extended.
    2. Push the switch plunger inward 4 detent positions (clicks). This will provide the preset position for the switch installation. The plunger will extend approximately 0.55 in. (14mm) out of the housing at this setting.
  2. Connect the harness wires to the switch.
  3. Press and hold down the brake pedal.
  4. Install the switch. Align the tab with the notch, then insert the switch and turn clockwise about 30°to lock it in place. WARNING
    Do not use excessive force when setting the brake pedal switch or damage to the switch could result.
  5. Release the brake pedal, then LIGHTLY pull the pedal fully rearward. The pedal will set the switch to the correct depth.
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1helpful
1answer

The back wheels lock up when i hit the brakes

Then it's either the wheel cylinder is no good, or the brake line is collapsed internally, and is acting like a one way valve. Not allowing fluid to be returned to the reservoir when you release the brake pedal.
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