Hyundai 2004 elantra gt had a failed radiator, will not start after complete cool down. Turn ignition to start you can hear fuel pump, engine turns slowly but will not start
Sounds not good. Question how long was car driven before it overheated. Next thing check your oil if there is a white milky kind of sludge in oil then you may blowen a headgaskit if thats the case you may need a new engine.
SOURCE: 2003 Hyundai elantra
Hi there they are known to have dramas with the pick up for the immobilizer i would be getting that checked first before spending money on something .else
SOURCE: 2003 Hyundai Elantra won't start.
Has similar problem, just got back from the shop and they said it's the neutral safety switch.
Tip on starting even with a broken switch:
1.) Turn the key all the way to start position (you will hear the gas pump humming and all the lights should be on)
2.) press the clutch pedal all the way down (if it starts, then it's fine, if not, proceed to step 3)
3.) release the pedal slowly and just slightly (an inch or so).
-->on the first try, you should hear a slight click and feel the car moving slightly. That's the point where the car tried to start.
4.) Repeat step 3 for several times if the car doesn't start until you are able to grasp that exact point and once you hear that click, hold the clutch at that point and the engine should fire away.
Of course this is just for temporary counter measure, I have to do this because this is my commuter car and I got to find a way to have a reliable and predictable start. Hope this helps.
SOURCE: 2004 hyundai elantra that surges violently 1000 rpm to 4000 rpm
could be afew things. vacuum leak, one dud HT lead, could be the water temperature sensor, O2 sensor, best to get it checked and get it read for fault codes
SOURCE: 2003 hyundai elantra gls abs/tcs light on
unless you can discover what DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code) has been recorded/set in the control module, it's anyone's guess.
Testimonial: "thankyou"
SOURCE: How to replace 2004 Hyundai Elantra starter
First, disconnect the battery. Then the only part that needs to be removed to access the starter is the rubber air plenum boot between the throttle body and the air filter housing. This allows enough room to get an arm in there to access the 14mm bolts that attach the starter to the transmission. After removing the bolts, the starter can be removed from underneath the car. lower it down as much as possible, and unbolt the power cable. You may have to twist and turn it a bit to get around the support between the engine block and intake manifold, but it will come out.
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