I want a list of survival equipment that I can buy and if you can also tell me where I can buy it will be helpful.

Take it to a Chrysler/'Dodge dealer who have the correct diagnostic equipment for your vehicle. Equipment used by AZ and others will not read all fault codes that may be present and they are not qualified to diagnose the causes of the faults that are read. They will read a fault code and tell you that you need to buy X or Y part from them to fix the problem. Good for sales but not so good for customers who frequently end up replacing parts that have not caused the issue.

If your fuel is okay (no water on the bottom of your tank... and your intake (carbs or fuel injection) equipment is still mostly bolted securely to the engine (both reasonably assured by mostly working... when it is working: most of the time)... you are probably experiencing an intermittent blockage of the EXHAUST SYSTEM...

You may be experiencing the early warning. I got marooned twice: rusted or rotted parts... cut loose for a total failure.

First - by a blocked muffler in Fresno (great shop: Cal State Mufflers & Brake)... ''75 Ranchero GT... I think (been a very long while)

Second - by a catalytic converter FIASCO... Horrible/EXPENSIVE Clown City Jag dealer, Walnut Creek (my opinion: never forget).

Both ultimately left me standing by the roadside... marooned pretty good.

Don't wait see if your local friendly Ye Old muffler shoppe has any clever diagnostics... or wait for the catastrophe...

Your choice but keep a good book in the car
(pack a lunch (survival equipment too)).

Good luck

A broken timing belt will allow the valves to hit the tops of the pistons if your vehicle is equipped with an "interference" cylinder head. A "non-interference" head will allow the valve train to survive a broken timing belt (or chain) incident.

As far as I can see after some research, your car isn't equipped with one. Checked the Big 3 autoparts suppliers and none of them give a listing for one. I believe CAFs weren't equipped much before 2000.

its not easy to see ....just buy you a remote starter system for 125$ and you will have all function door lock trunk etc...and two remote. and you will have the same origin function.. i hope this will help you..

the first thing that i would do before buying testing equipment is to change the main engine and body relays, they will be listed quite obviously. It sounds like you overloaded you electrical system and that they were the ones to cop the damage.
So YES I would agree with relays.
cheers
(dont forget to rate :-) )

sounds as though it has seized!
put it in neutral & seee if you can turn the motor by hand
DISCONNECT BATTERY FIRST
dont use the key start!
if it wont move its goiing to need flowers & a plot! sorry just my AUSSIE HUMOUR

That may be true, but you also have to look at it this way: Dealers give you a warranty when you buy a vehicle, whether it is 36,000 mile/36 month or more or less, well they only give you a warranty for so long because they know that eventually it will break down. Parts only last so long, especially moving parts. Most engine are not expected to last more than 150,000 miles. So I would eventually replace the timing chain. Most vehicles say to change them at 60,000 miles as routine maintenance. Hope this helps.

On every vehicle I buy, I change all fluids Engine, trans, differential(s) and so on...this gives you a good "baseline" for all service intervals. Same applies to filters, wipers etc. Check all hoses belts etc and replace anything questionable...Don't throw them away...Keep them with you to use as emergency replacements. Use the best quality replacement items you can afford...it pays off in the long run.
I have done this for many years and routinely get better than 350K from my vehicles. Machines are machines and therefore can and will break, but at least you are giving everything a better chance of survival by doing this initial service (and then, keeping up with it throughout the vehicles life) I recommed the use of synthetic engine oils in both engine & trans (not diff) and shortening manufacturers intervals a bit as well.
Good luck!!