Ok first off if you go from neg terminal to batt terminal you will get 12 volt because you are completing the circuit, you need to do an ohms drop not a voltage drop to see where you are at first
Brake repair has nothing to do with the voltage drop. Try getting the reading from the Positive terminal, do the fuse thing first then disconnect the starter, alternator, also check the light bulb holders cause some times they melt with heat. Let me know how you make out.
I don't believe they could have hurt your battery-a car that is driven daily and then sits will have this problem if the battery is older-your battery may have been weak and then sitting pushed it over the edge-have your battery tested-you'll need to charge it first-Isuspect you have a dead cell-what this means is it will show 11.5-12.5v but when a load is put on it, it will go down to 8 or 6 v and not have any power-also called amperage-Denny
That is not an accurate test to determine a parasitic drain on battery. You need to put an ammeter or test light in series with the ground and then pull fuses one at a time to see which circuit is causing the amperage draw. It should drop to specs (good rule of thumb is less than 500 Mili-amps) or cause the light to get dimmer when you remove the faulty circuits fuse. Then you will need a wiring diagram of that circuit and continue to disconnect components from the circuit to isolate the failure. Just to be clear on hook up, put meter on amp setting and attach red wire to battery negative terminal and then hook black wire to negative battery cable. ( dis-connect cable from terminal then wire as described.)
SOURCE: 1991 Accord LX is not charging the battery properly
You have a pretty good handle on the situation, but you need some help. The battery light gets it signal directly from the voltage regulator on the Alternator. The fact that it is turning on and off is indicative of a problem with the alternator and not the battery. However this is what I would do. First I would get me a little jumper test lead and hook it to the output lead of the Alternator, and check voltage between the Positive battery terminal and Alternator output lead with the engine running at high idle ( 1200rpm). This reading should be less than 0.5 Volts, any higher and you have a wiring problem in your charging circuit. Then take the a resding between the Alternator and Negitive battery post. This should be 13.5 to 14.8, if not you have a bad voltage regulator and you need a new alternator. If all this checks out then check voltage between the Alternator housing and the Negitive battery post, again the reading should be less than 0.5 volts. If higher check all your ground connections between alternator and engine and engine to ground. But since you aren't complaninig about hard starting I would guess this isn't the problem. I'm hearing Alternator. Your local autoparts store can do a load check to conferm this. Good Luck, and don't forget to vote
SOURCE: Parking and tail light short
OK ... being as you've ripped the entire interior out things might be easier to disconnect now .... I suspect the dash light dimmer assembly (I don't remember but this vehicle may even have a dimmer fuse??? check the owners manual ...) which goes to many lights and if damaged shows a dead short (has the radio ever been changed?) I would first disconnect the dimmer assembly (cluster lamps) (that will eliminate that circuit) replace the fuse and try turning the parking lamps on ... if the fuse blows again ... it's not the dimmer cicuit ... then ... You will measure a short when checking continuity between negative battery terminal and the light circuit as the filaments in the lamps will read continuity but it should show some resistance and not a dead short under normal conditions. I would then disconnect the harnesses going to the rear of the car located in the left kick panel and or the right kick panel .... the way you will solve it is to work one section at a time ... and a bunch of fuses ... trial and error then focus on the suspect section ... the thing that gets me is: you say the short goes away (on the meter) when the brakes are applied or left turn signal. So it might be in the rear harness ... I would also inspect the left rear light assembly and the harness to it (possibly a bad ground) good luck and let me know what you find
SOURCE: Engine won't start. Dash lights flash rapidly when key turned.
the battery says 12 volts but may be dropping to 4 or 5 under a load...i would suggest jumpstarting the car and see what happens.the battery should read in the high 12 volts and not less than 9.5 under cranking. the dash lights go out on your car when starting,and the alarm will go off ,and disable the ignition if the voltage is too low in cranking the car because the computer will shut it down and activate the anti theft.....check your battery posts are tight. best of luck
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