My 2000 jeep grand cherokee stalled yesterday at a red light no warnnig just like someone turn off a switch had to be towed home now car wont start no spark no fuel presure

SOURCE: 96 jeep grand cherokee wont start

my 1996 jeep is doing the same thing.the fuse I have been changing is under hood in fuse panel on left 20 amp sm. in center of fuse panel closest to bat.

SOURCE: 1995 jeep grand cherokee wont start

it most definately is the crank shaft sensor. same exact prob i had. it costs about 60 bucks and 3 minutes to replace yourself. one bolt holds it into the transmission bell housing and one connector wire. very simple fix. call off the wrecker. just have plenty of ratchet extensions available i had to go in from behind the transfer case to reach the bolt but it was still pretty simple to install.

SOURCE: 1993 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE LAREDO IM TOTALLY BAFFLED

Back up a minute...Do you have spark from the coil wire? (juice from coil) If so, change or check rotor and cap (wires do not all go bad at same time so unless they are wet, likely at least good enough to start engine)

SOURCE: 1993 JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE LAREDO- TRUCK WONT

OK...I have a 93 outside...one diagram I have shows an ignition module next to coil...but there is none on mine, (4.0 engine)
Two items to check are crank sensor and cam sensor inside distributor. Test procedure can be found in just about any manual including haynes.
You will need a decent volt/ohm meter to do testing. You can also check codes by turning ignition switch on/off three times, leaving it on the third time. Check engine will flash code #'s (ex: one flash, pause two flashes= the number twelve.then followed by a longer pause then another set of flashes etc.)

SOURCE: 2000 jeep grand cherokee limited starts in 3rd gear

oil pressure problem should be checked independently of other problems...Use a good accurate mechanical gauge to check. If pressure is good (no less than 15psi at idle hot (I prefer to see at least 20) check dash grounding, block ground and if OK, change sending unit. Dash and body ground can influence operation of shift and body control modules so indirectly your problem may or may not be related, depending upon what you find while testing. And it could turn out to be a defective module! They are expensive and just plugging new ones in may work, but then again, it might not. I might be totally incorrect on this...that's the value of actually being there instead of doing this by "remote control".
If you read the numerous posts pertaining to all vehicles, you will see that you are not alone with electrical problems...As long as the engineers who design this stuff, keep using "modules" to replace ordinary simple and reliable systems, we will continue to have these problems. Do some testing and I'm sure you will find a solution! (I'm still waiting for someone to make a program for a PC that will give a complete readout of every system in a vehicle, including exact faults instead of general system "suggestions")
Good luck