The clutch master cylinder is the one leaking fluid on the floor mat, the slave cylinder is on the bell housing, can be found by tracing the pipe from the master cylinder . Don't be tempted to fit new kits as the cylinders are sure to be pitted, fit new or reconditioned ones then bleed out all the air.
It's leaking on the driver's side? That would be the master cylinder bolted onto the firewall. You will have to replace with a new or remanufactured clutch master cylinder. When the seals go out, the whole unit must be rebuilt. The store will give you a discount if you bring in your old one for exchange.
The clutch slave cylinder will be down on the transmission bell housing. Follow the small steel line from the master cylinder. It goes right to the slave cylinder.
Pretty easy to change out the master cylinder. Remove the steel line, unbolt unit from the firewall, then under the dash, there's a rod from the clutch pedal to the master cylinder. Just undo the retaining clip or pin holding the rod to the pedal. When the new unit is installed and filled with fluid, then you get to learn how to bleed the hydraulic clutch at the slave cylinder-the fun never stops.
I have the same car it an 01 that ones down and out so I took the master cylinder from there and switch them hooked everything up and now I need to some how found the slave cylinder and check that any suggestions if I should take that off and replace it?
If the Slave is not leaking, try bleeding it first. As I said follow the steel line from the master to the slave. The slave will have a bleed valve. Bleed about like bleeding brakes: open bleed valve while someone slowly pushes clutch pedal. Tighten valve when pedal is to floor. Repeat until only clear fluid comes out the bleed valve, and no more air.
the thing is the clutch doesnt even work, i push the clutch and it just throats its self to the floor and doesnt come back up
Open the bleed valve and see if the fluid will gravity bleed down to the slave-give it a good time to see. Work the clutch by hand with the bleeder open-try to get fluid down to the slave. Let me know.
Just so we get on the same page here...this master cyl. you got on now is not leaking, is it? It\'s off the \'01? If it sat a long time, it may be suspect. 3 years difference...you may need to check that one is compatible, i.e. has the same throw or length requirements for the clutch pedal plunger rod to work it...I may just be gassing here, but double check everything you are doing. Something is not right. Just like brakes, the clutch is a hydraulic system- a little push on the fluid, and pressure holding it, builds a strong force moving the clutch lever forward. That\'s what the slave cylinder accomplishes-a little plunger is forced out of it and pushes the clutch lever forward a half inch or so...think I better shut up, have a smoke, and contemplate life.
i couldnt get under today im gonna start tomorrow and ill let you know what hapens if thatsbalrigjt with you
you bet. And good luck, just keep at it as you deem fit, you'll get it fixed.
i bled the slave and i ended up changing the master cylinder back to the original one csuse the other one didn't leak when i took the hose off so i did that and topped it off it still leaks i just dont understand two days intp thise and im back to step one
Yes, cars are a pain, but once you get a good, non-leaking master cylinder, and the clutch back working, then its a new day! The old master you tried must have been unused too long and the internal seals dried up or corrupted somehow-that's not uncommon, and why people should never buy used ones from salvage, just like brake master cylinders.
alrighty
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SOURCE: 1990 Mazda B2200 PU. Clutch sticks to the floor
I just had the same problem today it was the master cyclinder
its a common mazda problem
Slave cylinder should be on the left side of the bellhousing (follow the line from the clutch master if necessary) If you don't see fluid but you have lost some, also check where the rod from the pedal goes through the firewall to the master...they often leak there and will not drip on the ground.
SOURCE: Abnormal clutch pedal operation
You've replaced the master, the slave, now I would check to see if the throwout fork will move by hand. If you can move the fork by hand I would say that your pressure plate and or throwout bearing are worn out. First try to just gravity bleed the system. If that doesnt work, it may be time for a clutch, pressure plate, and bearing. The pressure plate spring pushes the pedal back up and depending on how many miles and driving habit those little arms on it break off and just wear out. I hope this helps you.
SOURCE: clutch pedal stays 2 the floor on a hydralic
Did you bleed the system? When you replace the the master and/or slave cylinder you have to bleed the system just as you would with brakes. There is a bleed screw on the slave cylinder. Open the bleed screw, have a helper depress and hold the clutch pedal down.Tighten the bleed screw, then release clutch. Repeat this procedure until you have removed all air from the system and the clutch pedal is firm. Keep an eye on the fluid level to avoid sucking air into the system. If you have done this, remember there is a possibility that the master or slave cylinder is defective.
SOURCE: clutch adjustment
Its either the clutch fluid is wrong or not at the correct levels or it has not been bled correctly.
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