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I was driving home, car running for at least 30 minutes at 55mph. When I hit traffic going 15-25 mph stop and go, car stalled out. was able to coast over to shoulder. Sat for less than a minute and turned the key again. Started right up, revved it a few times and got back underway. Another 5 minutes and another stall out. Same deal, started back up. Lost power, barely could get it up to 40 mph. did not feel any misfires. 2 weeks prior, I had the fuel filter replaced because I was getting Check engine light.
It was hot temp outside, around 100° here in phoenix. Drove it this weekend and it seemed to be fine. Was around 75-82°.
Sluggish on way to work this morning but made it (65° weather). Does anyone know why this Blazer has issues at higher outside temps?
I D K how does the exhaust fell at the tail-pipe with someone elese holding at 2,000 rpms flowing or not so muchI D K how does the exhaust fell at the tail-pipe with someone elese holding at 2,000 rpms flowing or not so much
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Drive Cycle resets to reset the OBDII testing phases are very specialized to the year, model and engine of your car. So I can only speak generally. Start the car from fully cold and let it idle for about 15 minutes, then put the car into gear and drive it for about 5 minutes at 35 mph, then get on a highway and drive at about 60 mph for 15 minutes, come off the highway and drive around 40 mph for 3 minutes, come to a complete stop (like a stop sign) wait 30 seconds, drive off again up to 40 mph for 4 minutes - and repeat the last 2 steps (going up to 40 mph) about 3-5 times. Then repeat the last two steps going up to only 25 mph. Then come to a complete stop in your driveway and let the car idle for 10 minutes with the a/c on . After this is done, hook up a code scanner and see if it reset the modes to "ready".
The check engine will be on if the key is on but engine not running . This is normal. If the check engine goes out when the engine starts there are no codes present . Did you check the fuel filter . Sometimes when a filter is dirty there is sedement laying in the filter canister . When the pump starts working the flow picks up the sedement and plugs any remaining open screen and stops the fuel completely . The engine stops . When the flow stops the sedement falls back allowing flow again. and the engine will run for another while . If the filter is old it should be changed anyway . Also when the engine stops check to see if there is spark at the spark plugs while cranking the engine .
I think you mean the engine stalls or cuts out at Idle/30/60 mph.
More info wanted,as first is it a Man/or Auto ,what engine have you got 6 or v8??? When last servised by who,How many miles on the clock,dose it smoke when driving or starting ,are the revs ok on idle ,,about what temp dose it run at the 30/60 mph etc etc???
PLEASE send all info, ..
Ron.
The EGR valve is unserviceable which causes a bad or insufficient fuel control for em-missions......Hope this helps you out........EGR valves are not very expensive.
Per your description, I would suspect a fuel pump issue. When the fuel pump is running the pump impeller heats up. On an older pump the impeller can begin to seize up and momentarily stops and starts. Some times it just stops and has to cool down for a couple of minutes, then is ok for a while.
To test this theory, when the engine stalls and stops, your mechanic can use a rubber mallet and hit the bottom of the gas tank, this will free the pump impeller and the car will start again.
Or, have him install a fuel pressure gauge and go for a drive. If the pressure begins to fluctuate and drop, you know the pump is causing the issue.
Good luck, let me know.
Regards,
Does the heat effect it?
It has been fine all winter long and on the hottest day of the year to date, this was problematic. And it ran fine all weekend...?
I will have to test tonight. Thanks!
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