Question about 2008 Jeep Patriot
Code p0017 refers to crank/ cam oosition sensor bank 1 sensor B -correlation ===causes --wiring--CKP sensor--CMP sensor--mechanical fault.
It also refers to control modules, cooling fan--no signal===causes -- wiring--ECM.
If it has a timing chain then the the advice that it will not be the chain is good. So I suggest checking out the cam/ crank sensors and wiring
Posted on Oct 23, 2013
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: How to replace Crank sensor?
crank sensor is on top of the bell housing between engine and transmission it will come out without any major disassembly is toward driver side of vehicle can get to it from undernieth when you get your new one look at it will give you a good idea of what to do
Posted on Aug 26, 2009
Hey Mike, it sounds like a problem with the ECM or a wire going to it, if the wires sheath does not look damaged I'd say that it's probably dry joints in the ECU. If you were to take the ECU to an electronic service shop it will likely be a lot cheaper than getting a new unit. I'm not sure what you mean by the federal emmissions ecm i'm in Australia, we don't have those.
Posted on May 25, 2009
SOURCE: rough running
Computers aren't ALWAYS correct. If a code wasn't cleared after the original problem, it will read the same codes off to the diagnostic. I would remove the wire connector to each injector while it's running. If one of them makes no difference THAT is your culprit. Let me know please!
Posted on Jun 27, 2009
Check to see if the fuel pump is running after it shuts down...could be a relay or the pump itself (overheating internally) Checked the fuel filter yet? Some crank sensors need to be shimmed. If it's too close to the flywheel even though you recently changed it, if it's too close to the wheel it can fail again. May not be the case but worth checking over. Also check the ceramic resistor on the left fender near the master cylinder if you have one. That too can cause problems.
Posted on Dec 27, 2009
I Found that the outboard PCM cover screw was shorting out the circuit board.
Short story long: I have a 96 Grand Cherokee 4.0L, 125,000 miles. Several weeks ago, I started to have stalling issues. Hot or cold, dry or wet, first drive of the day or last, it didnt matter. The engine would cut out. It felt like it lost all electricals.
At the time it was showing an ASD relay code. Swapped the ASD and A/C relays. Same problem. I didnt have time to look at it, so I had the dealer go through it. After 2 days and $200, they called and said it was the ASD relay, and that they put in a new one, and its all good. Um, ok, maybe I missed something. Im a trusting soul, but lets see if this fixes it. The next day the problem was back. I went back to the dealer and they basically said, We dont know what it could be, good luck with that. Now my wife knows why I dont go to the dealer. By the way, the old relay tested good.
My turn. Being the methodical aircraft mechanic that I am, I grabbed a multi-meter, contact cleaner, and wiring diagrams. I cleaned connectors, ohmed out wires and sensors, checked for power and grounds. Everything checked good. By now, its showing ASD, crank sensor, and primary ignition codes. Then, with my wife trying to start it, I wiggled the connectors on the PCM. Every time I wiggled the gray C3 connector just right it would run. When I let go, it would die. So I took the connectors apart and tightened up the crimps (I dont recommend doing this without the proper extractors and crimper). Threw it back together and BAM! Same problem. Well, time to bite the bullet and check for bad solder joints on the PCM board. I took the cover off of the PCM and realized that looking through the potting compound is like looking through Guinness Stout. But, I put it back in and hooked it up. It started stronger than ever, and didnt even think about stalling. Yes! I figured that I finally got the connectors sorted out, so I left it over night to cool down. Got up the next morning and it started right up and wouldnt stall even when wiggling the connectors. So I put the cover back on, put the PCM back in, hooked up the connectors, and BAM! It wouldnt start! That was the point when my wife asked, Hows it going? And I, being the methodical aircraft mechanic that I am, said, what the ----? Thats when my wife turned around and went back into the house. While smoking a pack of cigarettes, I thought, Gee, it runs with the cover off, but not with it on. DUH, wonder what it could be? So I backed out the two screws that hold the cover on and BAM! It started right up. Then, while it was running, I tightened the outboard screw and sure enough, it died. Yes! Aircraft mechanics love it when they can make things stop working. I cut the screws (1/4 long, factory screws are 1/2 long Torx head) with a pair of wire cutters, and shes been running great ever since.
Posted on Oct 07, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Jul 01, 2016 | Pontiac Cars & Trucks
Jan 07, 2016 | 2007 Jeep Patriot Limited
Mar 19, 2015 | 1997 Dodge Caravan
Jan 28, 2015 | 2006 Chevrolet Trailblazer Ext
May 11, 2014 | 1993 Buick Riviera
Aug 09, 2013 | Jeep Grand Cherokee Cars & Trucks
Apr 11, 2013 | 1997 Dodge Intrepid
Sep 20, 2010 | 2002 Ford Ranger Regular Cab
Jan 31, 2010 | 2001 Ford Ranger Regular Cab
712 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: