Question about Ford Aspire
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Bleeding clutch slave cylinder
if you loosten the slave bleeder screw and push in the clutch pedal fluid should come out if not make sure someone holds down the pedal and tighten the screw then pump the clutch a few times and hold the pedal and open the screw if no fluid repeat a couple of times if still no fluid you need either a new master cylinder or just rebuild it( normally cheaper) and if you rebuild it make sure you flush all the lines of debris
Posted on Nov 12, 2008
SOURCE: clutch slave cylinder
Yes, it is located on the passenger's side of the car at the front lower side of the transmission.
You will need the following tools: 12mm and 14mm socket. The slave cylinder could be bolted to the bell housing using either size bolt head.
A 14mm and 17mm open end wrench. The hose to the slave cylinder could be found with either size.
a 10mm combination wrench for the bleeder screw. A small set of vice grip pliers.
Removal and installation instructions for the slave cylinder:
1.Take the small set of vice grip pliers and adjust them to where they just barely close down on the slave cylinder hose. Just enough to pinch off the flow of fluid but not damage the hose.
2. Using the 14mm or 17mm open ended wrench, break the hose loose from the slave cylinder, turning it in a counter clockwise direction. Make sure you have the wrench squarely on the fitting to avoid rounding it off.
3. using either the 12 or 14mm socket, remove the two bolts which hold the slave cylinder to the bell housing.
4. At this point with the slave cylinder lose, have the replacement part near by, make sure you have the copper crush ring with it.
5. Holding the hose, rotate the slave cylinder counter clockwise, spinning it off the hose.
The replacement part should have a small metal rod and rubber cover which retains it to the slave cylinder. Make sure to remove the old copper crush ring and put the new one on the end of the hose. If the part did not come with one, reuse the old one. Spin the new part on the hose and place it back on the bell housing, making sure that the rod fits into the steel linkage which projects out from inside the transmission. There is a shallow hole which the rod should fit in. Holding the part in place, don't try to tighten the hose yet, screw both bolts in by hand and tighten them. Make sure you have them both in before you go tightening anything.
6. Tighten the hose, a good snug pull is all that is needed. you don't have to crank down on the line.
Now you can remove the pliers.
7. At this point you will need the assistance of another person. Have them sit in the car, you top off the clutch master cylinder (the one which has just one resevoir) with DOT 3 brake fluid. See if you can find a small container to catch the fluid in, or just use an oil drain pan. With you stationed under the car with the 10mm wrench on the bleeder screw ready to open it up in a counter clockwise direction, have your friend ready to pump the clutch pedal.
HAVE THEM PUMP THE PEDAL AND TELL THEM TO "HOLD IT" They should keep the pedal on the floor while you open the bleeder screw up.
Some fluid and air may or may not come out the first time you open the bleeder. Close it and tell them to pump the pedal again. They need to pump the pedal at least 5 times and them tell them to "Hold It" again, holding it to the floor. Don't open the bleeder until they have the pedal to the floor.
Open the bleeder and then close it. Repeat the procedure until you see just fluid and no air coming out.. After the first three times you bleed it, check the clutch master fluid level again. Avoid running the reservoir empty other wise you will be bleeding the cluch for quite a while.
Brake fluid will attack paint so if you spill any on the paint, pour water on it and it will neutralize it. DO NOT GET WATER IN YOUR BRAKE FLUID!!!!
If everything goes well, by the fourth or fifth time you have had them pumped the pedal, you will notice the slave cylinder is pushing the release arm and the person in the car should be feeling a normal clutch pedal along with the "pedal free play" being roughly 1/2 " from the top.
I hope I not only answered your question, but have supplied you all the necessary information should you be up to the task of changing it.
Posted on Apr 23, 2009
I have not tried myself but see if the link below will work for your case. It is not the same model as you have but most vehicles have the same components for the non electronic parts. http://www.2carpros.com/forum/1988-dodge-dakota--bleding-air-out-of-clutch-master-cylinder-vt248517.html
Posted on Jun 04, 2009
It must a Diesel? Exterior slave cylinder? The double, or split, flywheel has is made of two major parts. One part is bolted to the crankshaft and there is a bearing that supports the other part of the flywheel that pressure plate bolts to. There are cushioning springs in the flywheel instead of in the clutch disc, it's not a very good set-up and they are prone to failure. "LUK Clutch Company", makes a solid flywheel and regular clutch for those trucks, there might other companies too. The clutch works the same way as any other clutch but, the reason it pushes hard is because the sleave that the release bearing (throw out bearing) rides on, is most likely galled or dry. That sleave is made of aluminum and they have a nasty habit of getting messed up, I don't remember if there are 3 or 4 bolts that hold that sleave on the front of the trans. At any rate that sleave is easy to replace once the trany is out of the vehicle, check the arm for wear and cracks too. If you don't want to pull the trans to fix it right, you might be able pull the boot out that goes around the clutch release arm enough to squirt some oil up on that sleave, that might get you by for a while.
Posted on Nov 22, 2009
Testimonial: "Excellent explanation of my clutch set-up. Now I know what to do next."
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