Question about Toyota Cressida

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Car cutting out

In the morning she starts on the turn.but as soon as she reaches working temp she keeps cutting out,but will start on the turn again and cut out

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  • Toyota Master
  • 5,341 Answers

Some part of the ignition must have failed.. I would try a known good coil, doesn't have to be a new one, a used one just to check. The igniter (ignition module) can be taken off and tested at a parts store, usually for free.
You may have to look at a wiring diagram of the ignition circuit. The ecu controls spark timing, so the sensor it gets crankshaft position from is part of the ignition system. Whether Toyota used a crank position sensor or a pick up coil inside the distributor, I don't know, depends on the year a lot of the time. But that is another electrical component that may have to be tested. Good luck.

Posted on Oct 22, 2013

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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freetek
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SOURCE: 318ti M44 acceleration problem

Have someone handy to press the gas pedal for you after the engine has warmed up well; best if driven.

While you listen at the exhaust pipe, have your helper increase the revs slowly and note whether the exhaust note changes to a hiss, instead of the sound of an engine firing.

You may have a decayed catalytic convertor and when they come apart inside, they can clog mufflers and resonators (the second, smaller muffler).

I've had this happen on more than one car and when it happened on a Fiat Strada years ago, since the routing of the system was fairly straight and made of heavier gauge stainless steel, I fired two shots with a .357 magnum into the tailpipe.
Never had another problem with it.

Posted on Jul 20, 2008

SOURCE: car cut out while driving,

cam position sensor. Earlier recall on this. contact a dealer.

Posted on Aug 20, 2008

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SOURCE: Intermittent speedo for 1991 Honda accord but odometer & trip ok

its a faulty speed sensor or plug to speed sensor could be dirty

Posted on Dec 18, 2008

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SOURCE: car starts runs either or cuts-off;or when cutoff wont start

i had that problem, its the cam position sensor. i had that same problem, my car was cutting off in traffic and i had a hard time starting it back up. you have to hold the key for a very long time to get the motor to catch.. there was a recall a long time ago that the dealer has to reprogram or replace the CAMSHAFT POISITION SENSOR. it takes no time art all and i never had the problem again. i just happened to be looking up recalls one day and saw tht on a nissan forum and when i went to the local dealer the service guy swore up n down i was just blabin my gums but i got a second guy that knew of the issuse and it was fixed within that same hour. this happened to me about oct or nov 08 i had around 138-145k miles on the car then hope that fixes your problem

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

  • 24 Answers

SOURCE: Car starts ok then cuts out

HI,HANNAH,I SUSPECT YOU HAVE AN IMMOBILIZER PROBLEM.IF THERE IS A ORANGE LIGHT FLASHING ON THE CLUSTER WITH AKEY IN IT THEN IT IS THE IMMOBILIZER.THE PROBLEM WOULD MORE LIKELY BE THE DATA FROM THE KEY IS NOT GETTING TO THE IMMOBILIZER CONTROL UNIT,USUALLY A BAD CONNECTION AT THE READER COIL ON THE IGNITION.YOU MUST CLOSE THE TERMINALS SLIGHTLY AND INSULATE THE WIRING SEPERATELY.ANDY

Posted on Mar 19, 2009

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Car runs rough or cuts out when engine warms up


If your car starts perfect from a cold start then starts playing up when it reaches normal running temp, or if it even cuts out and then wont start again until the engine has cooled down then your going to need to get the following checked.

the most likely cause of your problem is going to be a bad oxygen sensor or lambda sensor for its proper name, now the reason it points towards this being the fault is that this part does not start working until the engine or exhaust is near normal running temp.
so you will find that your vehicle will start and run perfect when cold how ever as soon as the engine gets warm this part will start working and cause the car to cut out due to it sending the wrong info to the car fuel management system.

now you also need to bar in mind that this also depends on where your oxygen sensor is in your exhaust now if the sensor comes before the catalytic converter then the chances are your problem is going to be with this sensor, how ever if your sensor comes after the cat then it could also be the cat that is at fault.
if your cat comes before the sensor then it would be a good idea to have a diagnostic check done as you could spend money replacing the sensor and find out the fault it with the cat so bare this in mind when finding out the fualt

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The car runs for about a mile and then shuts off


Hi ti sounds to me like its cutting out as soon as the engine reaches near normal running temp if this is the case then it will start again after its cooled down for a minute or two if this matches your problem then it points towards the oxygen sensor failing as these only start working when the engine reaches a certain temp.

but to be sure you would need to have the codes read at a garage as you could throw money at it and find out its something else.

it does sound like oxygen sensor but it could also be a blocked vac hose running around the engine getting the codes read will give you a clear idea of what the problem is, most garages will read them for free but you will need to check first.

let me know how you get on or if you need further assistance ok

plz rate this solution as i have a whole page of unrated posts, thanks

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Sounds like temp sensor is not functioning properly. I dont have specific info on your car but generally speaking, either, your temp sending unit feeds both the dash gauge and the computer, or there is a seperate sensor for the computer.(any parts house can check to see if one or two are listed for your application) The function is to provide additional fuel when cold, similar to the function of a choke on a carbureted engine. As the vehicle warms up, this additional fuel is lessened, till operating temp is reached. Hope this helps you!!

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