Question about 1996 Ford F150 Regular Cab

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How do I remove hydraulic clutch cylinder from a manual transmission on a 1991 ford f150

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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PyroPCMan
  • 405 Answers

SOURCE: 1991 Ford Ranger manual transmission remove

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  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the gearshift lever assembly from the control housing.
  3. Cover the opening in the control housing with a cloth to prevent dirt from falling into the unit.
  4. Raise the vehicle and support it safely.
  5. On 2WD vehicles, matchmark the driveshaft to the rear axle flange. Position a drain pan under the tailend of the transmission. Remove the driveshaft-to-rear axle flange fasteners and pull the driveshaft rearward to disconnect it from the transmission.
  6. Disconnect the clutch hydraulic line a the clutch housing. Plug the lines.
  7. Disconnect the speedometer from the transfer case/extension housing.
  8. Disconnect the starter motor, back-up lamp and, if equipped, neutral sensing switch harness connector.
  9. Place a wood block on a service jack and position the jack under the engine oil pan.
  10. On 4WD vehicles, remove the transfer case from the vehicle.
  11. Remove the starter motor.
  12. Position a transmission jack, under the transmission.
  13. Remove the transmission-to-engine retaining bolts and washers.
  14. Remove the nuts and bolts attaching the transmission mount and damper to the crossmember.
  15. Remove the nuts and bolts attaching the crossmember to the frame side rails and remove the crossmember.
  16. Lower the engine jack slightly to angle the transmission assembly. Work the clutch housing off the locating dowels and slide the clutch housing and the transmission rearward until the input shaft clears the clutch disc.
  17. Lower the transmission jack and remove the transmission from the vehicle.
To install:
  1. Check that the mating surfaces of the clutch housing, engine rear and dowel holes are free of burrs, dirt and paint.
  2. Place the transmission on the transmission jack. Position the transmission under the vehicle, then raise it into position. Align the input shaft splines with the clutch disc splines and work the transmission forward into the locating dowels.
  3. Install the transmission-to-engine retaining bolts and washers. Tighten the retaining bolts to specifications. Remove the transmission jack.
  4. Install the starter motor. Tighten the attaching nuts.
  5. Raise the engine and install the rear crossmember, insulator and damper and attaching nuts and bolts. Tighten and torque the bolts to specification.
  6. On 4WD vehicles, install the transfer case.
  7. On 2WD vehicles, insert the driveshaft into the transmission extension housing and install the center bearing attaching nuts, washers and lockwashers. Connect the driveshaft to the rear axle drive flange.
  8. Connect the starter motor, back-up lamp and, if equipped, neutral sensing switch connectors.
  9. Connect the hydraulic clutch line and bleed the system.
  10. Install the speedometer cable.
  11. Check and adjust the fluid level.
  12. Lower the vehicle.
  13. Install the gearshift lever assembly. Install the boot cover and bolts.
  14. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
  15. Check for proper shifting and operation of the transmission.
The above was pulled frrom:
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800391da

hope this helps

Posted on Jul 02, 2008

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  • 45 Answers

SOURCE: My 1991 Ford Ranger Clutch Problem.

Your clutch has nothing to do with the engine starting other than the safety switch which will only turn the engine over if your foot is on the clutch. This switch is in the drivers footwell and is operated mechanically by the clutch pedal. If your clutch is hydrolic, there will either be a separate reservoir to the right of the brake fluid reservoir under the hood, or it will be fed by the fluid in the brake fluid reservoir. Check for leaks near the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder. The clutch should only have air in it if there is a leak or a line has been recently disconnected. As for the car not starting, is it cranking? Make sure you have fuel and spark.

Posted on Mar 31, 2009

  • 1129 Answers

SOURCE: 1995 ford f150 4.9 how to remove a/c clutch

remove drive belt then aquire the clutch removal tool from Auto zone or Napa, there is a specific puller designed to remove this clutch,in some cases in order to hold the pulley while removing center nut or bolt you must use a chain wrench with an old leather belt wraped around the pulley to protect the v-ribs on pulley in order to get the pulley bolt or nut loose the clutch will just turn when trying to loosen center nut if you don't use the chain wrench to hold it, after removing said nut or bolt attach the puller to the clutch and while holding it stationary with the chain wrench proceed to turn the shaft of the puller to remove the clutch, it should pop free after a couple of turns with a socket wrench of the appropriate size. PS use the chain wrench ($22.00 Auto zone) only in the corerect direction it does not clamp effectively either direction. also sometimes there is special holding tool for certain clutches, consult Napa or the dealer before buying the chain wrench it may not be effective in holding the clutch while trying to remove center bolt.

Posted on Jul 08, 2009

  • 236 Answers

SOURCE: hydraulic clutch valve leaking in a 1993 ford F150

No easy fix on the hydraulic slave cyl. Might as well change the clutch and check the rear freeze lugs. SORRY for the bad news.

Posted on Sep 22, 2009

emissionwiz
  • 77499 Answers

SOURCE: replace mechanical clutch linkage with hydraulic assist type

Below u will find a photo gallery link on the conversion of a 1983 Bronco, the parts are the same for a F150 click on each picture for dialog of what u are looking at, the only way to do this is to find the bell housing used on 1986 through about 1991, the reason is these years used a external type slave cylinder, u will need to find all the parts in the pictures from those model years at a salvage yard, pedal linkage, bell housing clutch release ford and all the brackets and bolts and spacers, the install is easy, u will need to drill some holes to mount the master but as far as the rest goes it is a swap out, the job will take about 12 hours to complete, buy the clutch slave and master new. expect to spend about $500 for the parts

http://www.supermotors.net/registry/2742/12752

allot of guys think this is a waste of time and it is not really that muich of an advantage to use a hydraulic set up, they all think the best conversion for the money is to an automatic trans.

Posted on May 23, 2010

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1 Answer

1990 ford f250 5 speed zf trans just had transmission rebuilt truck still jumps when i take off in second


Check your motor and transmission mounts. Not much into the slave cylinder, but on hydraulic cylinders there is sometimes a run-out where the hydraulic pressure is too weak to do the job. This sometimes happens with the shaft leaking internally and allowing pressure to bypass the valving. But you have a different one, is it good?

Consider a shock absorber. The first push it can make, then it does not refill the void fast enough to make the second push. Because of engine reving, you jump from 1 to 2 quicker than 2 to 3 gear. The slave cylinder does not have enough time to refresh. Maybe look at the weight of the oil in the slave cylinder.

Mar 30, 2012 | 1990 Ford F150

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I have a 1991 Ford Ranger 3.0, 6 cyl w/manual transmission. When shifting it's not going into gear easily and some times not at all. Any suggestions?


1. Your clutch may be worn or out of adjustment.
2. If it is a hydraulically activated clutch it may be low on fluid.
3. Possibly the synchronizers in the transmission are worn out.

Apr 16, 2011 | 1991 Ford Ranger Supercab

1 Answer

My clutch pedal has fallen a few inches from the floor it does not shift


You have a hydraulic clutch on your truck, check the reservoir for fluid, check the clutch master cylinder and lines for a leak, possibly line broke or need new master cylinder.

Feb 14, 2011 | 1991 Ford F150

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Manual 5 speed transmission clutch stuck. It was cold. Clutch itself is good. It appears to be a linkage prob of some sort. The haynes manual wont help because it covers too many diff trucks. mine is a 96...


Your truck has a hydraulic clutch, check to see fluid is full in the clutch master cylinder, and see if fluid is leaking at the line or the slave cylinder, line could have broke, or master/slave cylinder needs replaced.

Feb 08, 2011 | 1996 Ford F150 Regular Cab

1 Answer

How do you no if slavecylinder is any good


A clutch slave cylinder is a device used in the hydraulic clutch system, this item is mounted in the transmission, either on the outside, or in the inside.
If it is mounted on the outside, it is usually attached to the manual transmission by two bolts, the clutch slave cylinder has a rod that extends out every time hydraulic pressure is applied to it by the clutch master cylinder ( you operate this part every time you push on the clutch pedal). The rod that extends out makes contact with the clutch fork, in this design the clutch fork is the one who activates the clutch pressure plate.

In an internal clutch slave cylinder design, the clutch slave cylinder and clutch release bearing are one unit, this unit slides in the input shaft of the manual transmission and is held by two or three bolts that attach the unit to the front of the transmission ( inside the bellhousing). By being a single unit, the need of a clutch fork is eliminated.

What are the symptoms of a bad clutch slave cylinder?
Usually when you have a bad clutch slave cylinder you know it right away, because since it is a hydraulic part, once a seal inside the slave cylinder gets bad, it will start leaking fluid, at the same time, because the seal is not sealing properly, it will allow air inside the system, causing your clutch pedal to feel soft and spongy.
When a clutch pedal feels that way, it is an indication of air in the system, and when this happens, it makes it hard to operate the clutch properly because it engages even with your foot almost all the way to the floor, at times you may not even be able to place your car or truck in gear due to this problem.

NOTE: A bad clutch master cylinder will have similar symptoms, make sure that you look closely at each one of these items to determine which one is the problem ( the one malfunctioning is the one leaking fluid ).

I hope this helps!

Oct 06, 2010 | 1993 Ford F150 SuperCab

2 Answers

Clutch pedal is loose and will not engage or disengage


u have a defective hydraulic clutch master or slave cylinder, replace them as a pair

Oct 27, 2009 | 1991 Ford F150

1 Answer

How to replace a clutch on a 91 f150 four speed manual


Remove transmission assembly. Special tools required to disconnect clutch slave (hydraulic line). Need jack to lower tranny down and reinstall.

Mar 29, 2009 | 1991 Ford F150

1 Answer

Soft clutch in 1994 F150


Sounds like like you may have air in the hydraulic system.Run some brake fluid through the system by opening the bleeder on the slave cylinder attached to the transmission. Have a helper depress the clutch pedal until it touches the floorboard. Have him tell you so you can close the bleeder.Once the bleeder is closed have your helper push the clutch pedal several times pausing 5 seconds between each push. Keep an eye on the fluid resovoir for the clutch and fill as needed. Do this untill you either remove all the bubbles or the clutch feels good again. It can take a lot of time to move the air down the pipe so be prepared.

Dec 02, 2008 | 1994 Ford F150 Styleside Supercab

2 Answers

Ford F150 1989


if hydraulic, maybe slave cylinder, or air in line bleeds like brakes

Jul 21, 2008 | 1989 Ford F 150

1 Answer

Removal of slave clutch master cylinder


The hydraulic cylinder is in the bell housing. When you separate the motor and tranny, you will see it as a unit with the throw-out bearing. Take the hydraulic line off before you start. You will have to bleed it when you are done.

Jun 26, 2008 | 1994 Ford Explorer Limited

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