Question about 1989 Chevrolet C/K 3500

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01 chevy 3500, 11.5, 3.73 I was acceleration from a stop sign. there was a pop at about 10- 15 mph that came from the rearend. The drive shaft spins, wheels do NOT. 4 wheel low, and hi ill turn the front end. Abs, and parking break light are lit. just replaced the pinion seal 100 miles ago.

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  • 71 Answers

Sounds like you snapped an axel.

Posted on Oct 26, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 99 Silverado 4-wheel drive not engaging

It does not seem that sufficient diagnosis was done. No, you cant give a specific diagnosis like that without tearing unit down. It's likely that they told you the most common failure and left it at that. Likely there is a problem with your unit...I think this becomes more of a trust issue than a mechanical one. A second opinion from an independent reputable shop may help but either way, you need to have it fixed. In not using it much, it makes me wonder how it got worn.
good luck

Posted on Mar 19, 2009

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SOURCE: 1991 S10 blazer 4x4 4.3 popping coming from the front

the popping sound is the stabilizer links or the lower control arm bushings you can replace all bushings and both link kits for around 50.00 and the light is prob from the sensor on the transfer case or the front end i would remove and clean with dawn dishwashing liquid and put them back.

Posted on Jun 23, 2009

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SOURCE: '95 tahoe making noise when accelerating; sounds

no it should not spin when is in 2wd thanks

Posted on Jul 22, 2009

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SOURCE: abs kicks in at low speed trying to stop. Replaced

Check the speed sensors at each wheel.

Posted on Oct 15, 2009

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SOURCE: 2004 Chevy, HD 2500, roaring in front end

need to check wheel bearings

Posted on Oct 19, 2009

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1)Feel a jerking in rearend when I take off

Suggestions to check for item #1:

Check Universal joints in the driveshaft using the following procedure:

Park on a flat, level surface. Leave the vehicle in neutral, engage the parking brake, and chock at least one front and one rear wheel, so that the vehicle can not move.

Under the vehicle, grab hold of the driveshaft and rotate it back and forth, checking the U joints for abnormal motion. You should not be able to move it more than approx 1/16th turn in either direction. Excessive U-joint movement will be obvious. Yoke flange movement will not be as obvious, but is still noticeable.

If there is any up/down/side-side movement in the shaft, there are worn components that will need to be replaced.

If no worn components are detected in the drive shaft and associated components, check/replace your diff fluid as necessary. Metal shavings in the fluid may be indicative of an accelerated wear condition, and loose gears will be evident by excessive rotational movement of the driveshaft while not under load.

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Could be transfer case. or universal joints on the drive shaft. you have two a front drive shaft and a rear drive shaft. If you have access to a lift you could have someone to accelerate the vehicle to 60 while you listen underneath what out for the moving parts.

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Trannie, no drive no od,no 2 will go in r low 1

if you drove it too far too fast in 4 wheel low. you could have done some serious damage to the trani. i have the same truck in a 1998 and the tachomiter goes nuts at 15 mph in 4 low. it was never meant to drive for any distance in 4 low. if your lucky. when your rearend went it didn't take out your drive shaft. if your not lucky. your drive shaft took some punishment and in turn damaged the trani.

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