- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
the front strut is an outer case that has the coil spring around it and an inner insert which is the king pin and shocky assembly that is attached to the rubber and bearing in the inner guard
to replace , you have to remove the strut from the car then undo the retainer nut that holds the insert in
the insert is a common item and the job can be done inside the hour per side at any accredited front end specialist shop
you will need a front end wheel alignment done after the job
unless you are trained in the procedure , the coil spring will cause injury if not controlled during the procedure
Replace it as a unit. Strut, spring, strut mount all in one. It's called a quick strut. Raise car by the body not the wheel. Remove brake line (1 bolt) from strut lower. Remove 2 large bolts holding lower strut end. In the trunk 3 smaller bolts hold the strut mount (upper end) in place. DO NOT remove the single large nut at the top of the strut assembly. Wiggle the strut assembly out. Slide the new strut assembly in bolt it back in. Put wheel back on. Done.
I think you should make quite certain at the mechanics' that it is the struts and mounts knocking, and not the lower main ball joints. However worn strut top mounts are the most likely cause.
You don't say where you are but in the US $1000 should get you new struts and mounts both sides, albeit not a top name brand, and a necessary wheel alignment also.
You should not just replace only one side as that will degrade the handling and steering of the car.
Sounds like the strut mount has let go.
Your best bet is to find what is called a quick struts. This will be a complete strut assembly with spring and munt completely assembled. They will run you a couple hundeed a piece. Simply unbolt the old strut and bolt in the new strut and you should be good to go.
A strut mounting kit is also available. To replace this the strut will need to be removed. The. The spring will need to be compressed. The strut can then be removed. Then the spring will be uncompressed. The parts replaced. The spring compressed and the strut reinstalled,
You will need to bring the strut to a shop to have the spring compressed.
Quick struts are way easier and more DIY friendly.
First try to check availability of the "Quick Strut" These are available for some cars and trucks from different manufactures...ie, KYB, Carrera, Monroe, and others...the quick strut is the complete replacement assembly...you just need to mark all locations...unbolt, and insert the replacement quick strut that includes the spring and all bushings, and boots...if the "Quick Strut" is not manufactured for your Acura...you need to consider having the replacement struts installed by a shop...the springs have to be switched over, and special (and dangerous) compression tools are needed to take apart...and reassemble...you can borrow the needed tools from many auto stores...but again, not recomended for safety reasons...you will need to have your alignment checked after replacing the struts...needed adjustments left unchecked will "chew up" tires right before your eyes...Hope this helps.
Rear struts usually have a large bolt on the bottom and 3 little bolts on top, to allow removal. But then you need special spring compressor clamps to take the tension off the coil spring, so that the top of the strut can be safely removed. Careful, because the springs can be very dangerous. You remove the top from the strut by undoing the large center nut. If the shaft turns with the nut, use a small wrench on the flats in the end of the shaft. Once the top is off, then you remove the spring. The strut tube then has a cap retaining the insert cartridge that needs to be removed and replaced with a new one. Reverse the rest.
As with any suspension part you do both sides. Find the part on ebay or advance or autozone, if you get used from a junkyard you may well be getting another strut which is already beat to hell. With a car that old you may want to spring for a "quick strut" which has a new coil spring and upper strut mount which usually are also shot. Installation requires special tools and knowledge and an alignment afterward. You can save yourself some money by acquiring the parts and paying a shop to install them for you. Be prepared to find out at the alignment stage that ball joints and tie road ends are at the end of their service life also.
There are 7 bolts that hold the struts on the Dodge Intrepid. 4 are located under the hood. (in the corners of the hood compartment closest to the wind shield) 2 connect the strut to the brake assembly (just over where the lower ball joint/control arm assembly attaches.) and the last one goes to the outer tie rod end. I reccommend getting the quick struts. (they solve some headaches that I didn't avoid when I was doing them) You pretty much just unbolt these 7 things and put the new one in if you get the quick struts. If not you have to get a coil spring compressor.
dissassembly/reassembly of struts in a nutshell:
Step 1: Compress the spring with the spring compressor.
Step 2: Put a pair of large vice grips on the silver part of the strut inside of the spring (otherwise it will just rotate when you try to unbolt it)
Step 3: Remove the nut holding the strut to the spring.
Step 4: Before taking it all apart take note of how everything fits together.
Step 5: Postion everything the way it was before with the exception of the new strut inside of the spring.
Step 6: Put the top nut back on the strut so it holds the strut and spring together.
Step 7: Decompress the spring.
After putting the new strut in the car make sure you get the vehicle aligned.
IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT THE BOLT AT THE TOP OF THE STRUT IS TIGHT! IT IS VERY DANGEROUS FOR THIS TO BE LOOSE.
You will hear a loud clunking sound everytime you go over the slightest bump if you did not tighten it enough.
If you have any problems, I can give more detailed instructions.
No, it isn't... You need: -20" breaker bar -torque wrench -Liquid wrench (or WD-40 if you don't have any) -Jack and stands -sockets to fit all of the connections
1. Remove the back seat: Bottom cushion comes out by pushing it rearwards and lifting, undo the 2 seatbelt bolts and 2 push nuts and remove the back cushion
2. Jack and support the frame of the car 3. Remove the wheels 4. Place a jack under the control arm where the spring connects to it and put a little tension on the spring. (this is so that when you unbolt the strut the control arm won't come crashing down) 5. Remove the air tube by rotating the spring clip 90 degrees and pulling on the tube at the connector. 5. Remove the lower strut bolts. (Exprerience shows me that removing the lower one first will save you lots of agony...) 6. Remove the two strut mounting bolts that are behind the back seat cushion. 7. Compress the strut and remove from the vehicle. 8. Installation is opposite of the removal. Remember to use a new mount if the one you are removing is worn. I recommend Quick-strut 171798. Good Luck!
P.S. Torque Specs are: Lower Strut bolts- 140 ft/lbs Upper strut bolts- 30 ft/lbs Mount to strut bolt - 70ft/lbs
the strut only need replacing if there is alot of bounce in the car, or if there leaking, or the main reason is there broken. that would be the only reasons to replace struts
×