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Rear spider gears

Iam getting a thump sound as i change gears and there is a slight delay in power getting to wheels if you turn the drive shaft by hand there is free play.

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The differential pin may be worn due to possibly getting stuck and excessive spinning has caused the spider to route out the pin, the excessive play could be caused from the slack between the worn pin and the spider gear. Take the differential cover off and observe this as you play with the slack.

Posted on Oct 21, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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chuck943
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SOURCE: 2004 Lincoln Aviator thumping sound

The problem is the rear thermostatic expansion valve (TXV).
It is behind the left rear quarter trim panel.You can pull the panel back to access the valve to make sure that that is the noise.If so you will nedd to have AC system evacuated and replace valve and recharge the system. The part number is YF2Z-19849-AA.

Posted on Mar 04, 2009

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: i have a 1999 chevy s10 pick up zr2. the wheel

Easy way- replace whole axel housing from junkyard slice axels with torch or sawsall to remove posi unit then reassemble.sorry cann't think of any other way

Posted on Mar 05, 2009

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SOURCE: 4 wheel drive wont engage on kia sportage 2001

there are vacum line one on each side behide the wheels see if they are broke or leaking i had the same problem

Posted on Mar 22, 2010

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SOURCE: 1999 chevy silverado z71 5.3 ujoints just got

i would suspect bad driveshaft hanger bearing - to confirm, jack up back end of truck and hold up with jack stands. have someone in the truck to accelerate to the speed where you hear the noise, listen for the noise - a stethescope is very useful for this. good luck!

Posted on May 10, 2010

  • 137 Answers

SOURCE: 2000 Chevy Express 1500 Rear

Sounds like the original wear pattern of the ring and pinion was disturbed when the pinion was tightened too much. Once a wear pattern is set in the gears you can't really change it. It might be the ring and pinion wearing that you are hearing and not a bearing at all. It's not the worst thing in the world but will cause the ring and pinion to wear improperly and is annoying. Differential work needs to be done by someone that really knows their stuff to avoid these little problems.

Posted on Sep 23, 2010

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I'm having a thump thump thump when excelerting and decelelrating. sounds and feels like it's coming from rearend


When was the last time you had your rear differential looked at or serviced? Basically when its happening something in your drive train is out of whack, so to fix it we need to look at the sequence of where the power goes, but if it sounds like its coming from the back,we'll start at the drive shaft itself, when it spins, it gives power to the rear differential, which is most likely where the noise is coming from. Driving should be limited while this problem is occurring because if any of the gears in the rear diff have become shaved or broken, the problem could get much worse while spinning with the pieces of gear are spinning around inside the still working gears. The first thing you should do is re-lubricate the gears in the rear, if this doesn't fix it, a trip to the shop is in order.

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The lock pins you are looking for is actually a "c" clip that is on the inboard end of the axle inside the diff housing. There is a drift pin that holds the cross shaft for the spider gears in the carrier at one end. You need to drive out the pin and then slide out the cross shaft. Push in on the axle and you can then remove the clip. Don't turn the carrier after removing the cross shaft or the spider gears will walk out. If you need to turn it, put your finger in the hole and turn gently so you don't hurt your finger.(trans in neutral and both rear wheels off the ground.)

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I have a thumping noise in my 2003 chevy 2500HD, starts at about 20mph realy loud over 50. Tempo seems to stay steady but noise increases with speed. Stops with a slight Left turn(you can stay in lane)with...


Yuck, this doesn't sound good at all. Stop using this truck until you find out where this noise is coming from.
Inspect the drive-shaft, look for faulty U-joints (you may need to drop the drive-shaft to see if one is binding), look at the gear-oil inside the drive-axle (is it full, does it have metal in it?), check for loose lug-nuts on all four wheels, check for cracks in the rims, and inspect rear E-brakes, They may be defective. Good luck, let me know how its going.

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No you can replace the gears by removing the differential cover. Remove the gear pin and slightly pull the axles out of the gears. unbolt the drive shaft from the differential first you will then be able to move the gears so you can get at the pins.

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CLUNK IN REAR


There's a few more things to check out:
1. The track bar links, which attach from frame to the sway bar. Inspect the bolts/nuts to ensure they are really tight and the rubber isn't worn to the point of slack.
2. The bushings where the upper control arm attach to the frame. Inspect these for torn rubber/missing bolts. (These 2 bushings are on the fore end of the wishbone where you changed the upper ball joint.)
3. The bushings in the other, straight control arms that restrain the differential.
4. The shock absorber bolts/rubbers at frame and axle.
5. The u-joints on drive shaft.
6. The differential input pinion bearings. Raise vehicle and really yank/pry/push around the drive shaft and look for any slack.
7. The drive shaft at transmission. Check for any play over 0.020", side to side, up and down.
8. The transmission rubber mount.
9. The axle bearings. To check these, lift under axle, each wheel, and yank wheel fore/aft, up/down, and maybe use a pry bar. You're looking for axle bearing wear where the axle is supported at the outer ends of the axle tubes, just behind the brake mountings.
10. While the vehicle is raised (wheels off ground), chock the front wheels, and put transmission in neutral. Now check for significant slack when you manually rotate the wheels by hand, back and forth. If slack here (say, 10-15 degrees of fore/aft rotation on a wheel), then the spider gears are probably worn at the cross shaft in the differential carrier. Depending on the amount of slack, you can change the spider gears, side gears, cross shaft, and the associated thrust washers yourself, if you're a capable mechanic. This requires opening the differential cover, removing the rear axles (at least far enough to get the axles out from the side gears), remove the cross pin retainer bolt, manipulate the cross shaft out, manipulate the spider gears with their thrust washers, out, manipulate the side gears, with their thrust washers, out, then replace the above, with a 'gear kit', which includes the side gears, new thrust washer, spider gears, with new thrust washers, cross pin, and cross pin retainer. A 'gear kit' is around $85 for the Dana 44, 30-spline axle kit. While those parts are out, pry the carrier in each direction inspecting for slack in the carrier bearings and check the pinion/ring gear slack at that time. If you find a bad carrier bearing or pinion bearing, then you should probably find a mechanic to replace those, unless you're a 'very capable' mechanic. After reassembling the gear kit (side gears with their respective thrust washers, spider gears, with their respective thrust washers), cross pin, and retainer bolt, clean the sealing mating surface of both the axle housing and cover, remove the fill plug from the cover, apply RTV sealer to the cover (1/4" bead), attach the cover with bolts, replacing the tags in their original locations, refill differential with either 85w oil or 70W140 synthetic, as desired, approx 2.3 liters, replace plug, and check for leaks. Note: when removing the differential cover, remove all but 2 mid-side bolts, and make them loose. Then tap the very bottom of the lid towards the rear to loosen the cover, have drain pan under the differential to catch the oil. Then remove the 2 remaining bolts and cover. The lid projects below the housing about 1/16" and that is the part of the lid you want to bump on to loosen the cover.
11. Rear disc brake caliper mounting brackets.
12. The sway bar rubber mountings on the axle.

.. and that pretty much covers everything that can make noise on/in the rear end.

13. If a tow hitch is attached, check that for proper attachment.
14.Fuel tank loose, or fuel pump inside tank loose.
15. Spare tire loose, or junk in the spare tire carrier hole.
16. Loose junk in the right rear side compartment (this is actually a CD changer compartment, but if no CD changer is installed, then people put all kinds of junk in there)
17. Rear lift door. Open it a bit and check for side to side play. I've heard of terrible noise on my rear lift gate, and it was the rubber wind seal making a bunch of noise. I wiped it with a rag I sprayed silicone oil onto and quieted that down.

Aug 18, 2008 | 2000 Jeep Cherokee

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