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I've got a Holley 465 which is only about 2 years old and it keeps flooding on my 253. It's mainly the rear bowl that keeps flooding. Last time it flooded I removed both needles and seats (front and rear bowl) and replaced them with brand new ones. Only reason I did both was because the front one started flooding too. Now, about 4 months later, the rear bowl is flooding again and the float level doesnt change no matter how low or high the needle and seat is sitting in the carby. Fuel pressure is set at 5 psi and plays up even at 3. Can't win

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  • 72 Answers

Your needle valve for the fuel inlet is out of adjustment or needs tweaking.

Posted on May 02, 2017

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 1999 Regal GS Super charged, Starts,runs 3-5 sec and dies

i gaurantee that it is the fuel pump ressistor up on the passenger side front behind head lamp assembly you will find the connector with two wires going to it. no need to remove old one install new one and connect wires to new one leave old in. dealer only part but not expensive. dont belive dealer when they try to talk you out of it. This is a kit to relocate a ressistor that has been installed in a poor location. I promise this will fix it. My wifes car did the same thing, took 20 minutes to fix and that is only because i am an electrician and am finicky about where to locate wires etc. the kit comes with installation instructions however they are a little vague. trust me. easy fix. my dealer tried to get me to leave car for repair and said it sounds like the theft detterent system. they were wrong and i was right. dont trust em

Posted on Sep 03, 2008

motor1258
  • 6674 Answers

SOURCE: 1976 Gran Torino motorcraft 2150

Are you sure your idle ports ( size of pinhole) in carb aren't plugged with something? What happens if it starts to die, and you give it a quick squirt of WD-40 , down throat of carb?

Posted on Oct 18, 2008

  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: HOW TO REMOVE FRONT SEATS AUDI A6 YEAR 2000

You need to access bolts that are bolted to the floor, disconnect wiring, move the seat forward and look from the rear seat down under, you will see bolts..

Posted on May 13, 2009

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Needs a rebuild. Diaphragm is sticking in it. Holley carbs are notorious for that. I highly recommend running 93 octane or higher when using a Holley!!

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is the needle opeoning on the float in the carb? The fuel bowl should be about half full all the time. As fuel pressure flows into the needle & seat, it fills the fuel bowl until the float pushes the needle into the eat. Sometimes the rubber tipped needle can stick in the seat.

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Depending upon which bowl design you have on yours, you need to check the float level. There should be a brass sight plug on the right side of each bowl. To adjust, remove one plug, loosen the screw on the top of the bowl and turn the 5/8" nut that surrounds the screw. BE AWARE...when you make this adjustment, fuel will squirt from the screw you loosened, so you need to have a rag nearby to keep everything dry. Fuel will also spill from the sight plug hole 'till it's properly adjusted. Turning the nut clockwise lowers the level, ccw raises it. If you cannot stop the flooding, you will need to remove the bowl and clean it out. You can get a complete rebuild kit from Holley (you'll need the number stamped on the front of the air horn). The kit includes new needle and seat valves, power valves and all necessary gaskets. Always use a new filter to prevent new crud from ruining your work.
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http://www.malloryperformance.com/pdf/4307M.pdf

A bad Needle & Seat will do this also, or debris stuck between the Needle and the Seat. This is where light tapping on the bowl helps, but it's best to run the fuel out of the bowl a few times and then the volume flow, or quick filling of the bowl, should loosen up the debris.

You also could have set he fuel float too high. What model carb, the ones I mentioned above (AKA Holley Modular Carbs)? If so, then Holley's site has a tech center & instructions on setting the float(s). www.holley.com

Set the floats carefully and slowly/gradually. Make sure the lock screw is always loose enough before turning the adjustment nut. If you strip out the bowl's threads on an older carb, you'll beat hell finding a replacement. 1/12 turn = 1/32" of fuel height IIRC. You set the fuel level, with pump running (wrap a rag around the carb so gas doesn't leak onto the manifold!!!) so the fuel is just starting to dip out of the "peep-hole" in the side of the float. Removal of the peep/seep-hole screw/plug is necessary first. Clockwise rotation of the nut lowers fuel level IIRC and counter raises fuel level. Again, please check their website. Most people get discouraged when dealing with the Holley Modular Carbs, but they are the simplest and the best carbs on the market. Even if 30+ years old.

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