Question about Mazda Millenia

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My 1995 mazda millemia overheated and when my father changed the wires to the battery because the car would not crank. He thought that it was the wires to the battery. This did not work. He put in the code reader and than the car crank. It will only crank with the code reader attacked. Does anyone have an answer for this because I am low on money so if someone have a answer to this that my father maybe able to fix it without me trying to get it to a mechanic.

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  • 74 Answers

Not real clear whats wrong with the description of the problem you gave. Its a little confusing, but I have a suggestion for you. I'm guessing here, but maybe you have a loose/shorted ignition wire. Start the car with the code reader and drive it to a shop that gives free estimates or maybe AutoZone/Advanced Auto Parts Store for their free starting system diagnostics test. Hope this helps. Good luck!!!

Posted on Oct 21, 2013

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1861 Answers

SOURCE: 1995 toyota camry-stalling out when driving

You do not have to replace the fuel pump at a specific mileage.
I hate to speculate without physically inspecting the vehicle, but, my best solution here & now may be the fuel pump. Now, I would not go out & buy one before you had proper diagnosis. Here is one test, but you will need to have to experience the stall again, and then test to see if you have fuel pressure at the injectors. If you have no fuel pressure, replace the pump. Fuel filter issues do not "come & go", they stay, and your car would not run properly. Also, a fuel pump failure will not set a computer code on this particular model vehicle. Hope this helps..

Posted on Sep 15, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: checking the fault codes

Yes.  Next to the ash tray there is a black slide off plate that reveals the OBD I plug.  {1996 and newer can be read with an OBD II reader (read for free at Advance auto or Auto Zone)}  Once you reveal this plug on the 1995, you can plug in a single jumper wire (or even a paper clip) in the #4 and #15 pin hole.  There are two rows of pin holes, count from the upper right to the #4, then on to #15 (which will be the second to last pin hole).  Turn the ignition switch on (motor not running), insert the jumper wire for about 3 to 5 seconds, then remove the wire.  The ENGINE LIGHT will flash a hold, then the code, which will go something like this, flash, flash, PAUSE, flash, flash, PAUSE, flash, PAUSE, flash, flash, flash, flash.  Then it will repeat the codes if you just sit there and observe it.  The code in my example would be a 2214 code.
Below are some code I found on a website.  I hope this helps.  Now I ask that you take the time to answer someone elses question.  Lets all share.  Good luck, "Peace through power and knowledge"

CODE FAULT
0000 End of fault sequence
1111 Bad ground to Electronic Control Unit (ECU) or ECU failure-check grounds or replace
ECU
1119 Transmission Range - Defective wiring. Check for break or short.
1213 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) - Check transmission speed sender wiring and the wiring of
the instrument cluster
1231 Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) (G54) - Check transmission speed sender wiring and the
wiring of the instrument cluster
1232 Throttle Position Actuator - Check defective actuator or wiring for break or short.
2111 Engine speed sender. (RPM)
2112 Ignition reference sender
2113 Hall sender - No speed signal from distributor; check Hall sensor and circuits or the
Air-flow sensor plate is not moving freely; adjust potentiometer or lever.
2114 Hall sender not on reference point or distributor out of position.
2121 Idle switch - check switch & circuit.
2122 Hall sender - Check wiring for break or short.
2123 Full throttle switch; check switch & circuit.
2132 Electronic Control Module (ECM) - No ignition to injection signal.
2141 Knock sensor 1 control at maximum ****** - test compression, change octane, adjust
timing, check knock-sensor wires.
2142 Knock sensor 1 signal - Test sensor, check wiring for break or short.
2143 Knock sensor 2 control at maximum ****** - test compression, change octane, adjust
timing, check knock-sensor wires.
2144 Knock sensor 2 signal; test sensor.
2212 Throttle Potentiometer - Value out of range.
2214 RPM Signal - Idle speed to high or engine over-revved
2221 Vacuum Control - No vacuum to control unit. Check for leaks.
2222 Manifold Vacuum - Check vacuum line and wastegate for leaks.
Pressure sensor - Sensor defective
2223 Altitude Sensor - Check sensor, check wiring for break or short.
2224 Turbo/Manifold pressure - Check turbo control wiring, check for over boost, air leak,
defective wastegate valve, vacuum leak or defective pressure sensor.
2231 Idle-speed stabilizer adjustment limits exceeded; too-fast idle. Adjust throttle for full
closing, check for vacuum leak, check ignition timing.
Or
Air Mass Sensor - Check sensor and wiring.
2232 Air mass/flow sensor - No signal. Check wiring for break or short.
2233 Air mass/flow sensor reference voltage open or short circuit
2234 ECM Supply voltage low.
2242 CO-potentiometer voltage low
2312 Coolant temperature sensor - Check wiring, check resistance.
2314 Transmission to Engine control module circuit. - Check wires for breaks or shorts.
2322 Intake Air Temperature Sensor - Check sensor and wiring.
2323 Mass Airflow Sensor - Check sensor and wiring for breaks.
2324 Mass Airflow Sensor - Check sensor and wiring for breaks or shorts to B+ or ground or
check for air leak.
2331 Oxygen Sensor Control - Out of range. - Check ignition, air intake for leaks and injectors.
2332 Oxygen Sensor - Bank 2 - Check wiring for breaks or shorts.
2341 Oxygen sensor (O2) at control limit; check CO, lambda-sensor wire, lambda-sensor
control, start valve, evaporative system and check for vacuum leaks.
2342 Oxygen Sensor Control - no signal - Check wiring, sensor.
2343 Rich limit; the pressure regulator has exceeded +10 mA for more than 5 minutes,
closed-loop; check for vacuum leaks.
2344 Lean limit; the pressure actuator has exceeded -5mA for more than 5 minutes, closed
loop; check idle.
2411 EGR System Malfunction
2412 Intake Air Temperature Sensor - Check sensor and wiring for breaks or shorts
2413 Mixture Control - Running rich
Fuel pressure too low
3424 Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) failure - Check lamp and wiring.
4311 Secondary Air Injection Pump Relay - Check relay and wiring.
4312 EGR Frequency Valve
4313 Secondary Air Injection Solenoid Valve - Check valve and wiring.
4331 EVAP Carbon Canister Solenoid Purge Valve 2
4332 Ignition Circuit Final Stage - Check for break or short to ground or B+ or bad ECM.
4343 EVAP Carbon Canister Solenoid Purge Valve 1
4411 Fuel Injector Cylinder 1 or 1 & 5
4412 Fuel Injector Cylinder 2 or 2 & 7
4413 Fuel Injector Cylinder 3 or 3 & 6
4414 Fuel Injector Cylinder 4 or 4 & 8
4421 Fuel Injector Cylinder 5
4422 Fuel Injector Cylinder 6
4423 Fuel Injector Cylinder 7
4424 Fuel Injector Cylinder 8
4431 Idle Air Control Valve / Idle Stabilizer - Check valve and wiring.
4433 Fuel Pump Relay
4442 Wastegate - Defective frequency valve or wiring.
Boost pressure circuit - Check for short.
4443 EVAP Canister purge valve.
4444 No fault in system.

Posted on Oct 19, 2008

fastboyz
  • 674 Answers

SOURCE: put a checker on it and got a p03000 random multiple cyl misfire

you are getting a misfire and 99% of the time you need a tune up
plugs and wires and clean your throttlebody

Posted on Oct 27, 2008

rockitman187
  • 2559 Answers

SOURCE: 1995 mazda 626 stalling at low idle

Check the EGR valve



Please rate this a fixya

Posted on Feb 11, 2009

Mike258
  • 1498 Answers

SOURCE: 2003 PT Cruiser overheating

Hi Shannon,

Since the vehicle is already at the mechanics, the standard check this and that scenarios don't apply. I also try to refrain from judging a situation that I'm not in front of, but something isn't quite right.

In case you are being taken advantage of, knowledge is power and I'm going to do my best to empower you. So let's get to the right questions to ask your mechanic.

  • I find it disturbing that it took only five miles to overheat.If they filled it with coolant and enough leaked out to allow it to overheat in under ten minutes, that leak should have been apparent. Did they not even check?
  • Did they take it for a test drive? At least run it until it warmed up? If so, HOW DID THEY NOT NOTICE? If not, HOW DID THEY FILL IT? The engine needs to be running to circulate the coolant, to get rid of air pockets remaining in the engine as you fill the radiator. For this to happen, the engine needs to be warm enough for the thermostat to open and allow circulation. Again, how did they not notice?
  • What about the oil? Another leak? From where? Did they check?
  • Was the radiator new? If not, why $400. If so, where is the old one? (You might call a local salvage yard for their price on a replacement)
  • Did they flush the system?
  • Did they check the thermostat?
  • Did they try to figure out why the radiator cracked? Was it just a crack or what looked like a blowout?
  • Did they check the hoses
  • Did they check the water pump? Was it leaking through the weep hole or shaft? Was the coolant circulating? Was it discolored? Was there evidence of oil in it? How much coolant was added? How much should it take? (Good one, eh?)
Things to make note of:
  • Have you noticed water pooling where you park?
  • Loss of power
  • Excess smoke
  • Oil in the coolant
  • Coolant in the oil
These (not necessarily all) symptoms can be indicative of a problem with the head gasket. The best way to check is with a compression test on all cylinders. This is done by pulling the spark plugs, attaching a pressure gauge and turning the engine once. This is repeated for each cylinder. All pressures should be close. If one or more is significantly less than the others, the cylinder is not containing the compressed gasses within. The symptoms you described along with any one of those on my list should have prompted this test.

Every one of the questions (just about every one) I put down would be reasonable if your car kept working perfectly the first time. I did get on a bit of a rant, please forgive me for that.
When asking them:
  • You should speak to the person that did the work (so he doesn't have to 'go check with whoever' to get their stories straight).
  • You should expect clear concise responses. If he starts going over your head with 'Techno-Babble', stop him and say, "Plain English, start again please".
  • His demeanor should be embarrassed and trying to make it right, convince you he knows his stuff and this was just a fluke. (Possible, I've been hit by lightning, but what were the odds?)
I hope there is a reasonable explanation, I don't like to think ill of anyone. I also will not stand for violating professional ethics or people being ripped off.

If these guys are trying to pull a fast one, they are lazy by nature. They are hoping for the same in those they take advantage of. Being prepared is key.

If you have one of those digital voice recorders, make sure it has fresh batteries and set it to record. The second you start asking questions you have the momentum, they are on the defensive.

Ask as many questions as you want. If you don't get straight answers, if you get waffling, condescension or BS, have them get your car ready to go, Don't pay them another dime. And as you leave, ask my final question: Do you guys know a good mechanic?

If you decide to take them to court, that recording is evidence. Their response to that question will likely win you the case.

I hope I have given you enough ammo to get to the bottom of this. If you need anything else comment me back, I'll respond as soon as I get it.

Either way, please let me know what happens. Can you tell I have issues with a certain type of 'business person'? ;-)

Best Regards,
Mike

Posted on Feb 13, 2009

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