Question about Cars & Trucks
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Thanks for providing that information.
At 65K I would first suggest changing shocks. Yes, that is enough mileage to have them beginning to get "softer" which will increase suspension travel and noise.
Even though they may test good (usual test is jumping on the bumper to see how it responds after bouncing) but that really doesn't apply to shock/strut combinations.
I would suggest a higher then factory grade replacement shock. Do realize 60% of the weight for that vehicle is in the front.
Next, there is always some, what they call "spring seating" as a vehicle gets older. You will notice it more when the suspension is in a turn, going over a bump. The spring moves / rotates in the seat, and you will hear a sometimes loud popping or clicking noise.
Bushings are probably best left to the professionals, unless you happen to have a well equipped shop at home.Same goes for the struts. You will need a good spring compressor to be able to change them, and you will need to have an alignment done after changing them. Doing the bushings at the same time is easy once the struts are out.
Since it is 4WD you mine want to test the front CV joints also. If you have access to a lift, put it in the air so all 4 wheels are off the ground, and running it. Listen to each front wheel to see if you can hear any CV noise. Please be very careful doing this. Doing it incorrectly can result in injury.
What you want to do more then anything is take this a step at a time. When you hear a noise inside a car, it can sound like it is coming from one place, and you can find out later, it is somewhere else.
I think a Haynes manual is going to be a good guide for you on this problem.
Take you time, and be very careful doing this kind of work. If at anytime you are not 100% comfortable doing the work, consult a professional.
Sorry I can't be more help as a simple fix, but I'm limited diagnosing any further without have the vehicle at my access.
Posted on Nov 15, 2008
You have a quick fix item. There is a send code button on your garage door opener. You simply have to press that button, and within 5 secs, press and hold the button on the garage door opener (your car or other) until the opener rapidly blinks. The garage door and the opener will share info,,, and presto,, you can open by the remote opener. Take a peek at your garage door opener instructions. You can have up to three settings at one time... one for each button. I was asked if the buttons ever got the openers mixed up,, and the answer is absolutely not.
Posted on Dec 01, 2008
If I remember correctly if you look at the back side of the fuse cover, it should tell you what the fuses are. Also in the owners manual in the index, under fuses, it should give you a diagram of the fuse location for the acc. outlets. Good luck. The fuse should be a 20 or 25A fuse.
Posted on May 26, 2009
If it does it when idling I would suspect an IAC motor (Idle Air Control). If it is opening too slowly the added air the motor needs will not be supplied fast enough and the engine will kill.
It could be other things also but this is where I would start.
Posted on Jul 27, 2009
Had the same exact trouble. Changed the relay #36. Check the owners manual pages that show where all of the fuses/relays are. The fuse box for this relay is in the trunk area so I had to crawl in cuz the trunk wouldn't open. Good uck...hope this helps
Posted on Jul 31, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
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Try pulling the rear hatch panel and move the unlock mechanism with a screw driver to get it to open.
If that does Not work:
Check for broken wires in the liftgate boot. Test the liftgate module powers and ground on the 4 terminal connector: 12 volts on the Orange wires in terminals A and C, ground on the Black wire in terminal D. The liftgate module is located inside the gate.
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