Question about 2002 Volvo S40

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I put my drivers side window down today and it wont come back up,also none of the windows are working or the mirrors.iv checked all the fuses inside the engine and below the dashboard,does any1 know if there are any other fuses or a solution cheers russ

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  • 6 Answers

Some cars have 1 fuse box at the engine and another one inside the vehicle below the dash.

Posted on Oct 20, 2013

  • kRt uK Oct 20, 2013

    check the relays as well

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 840 Answers

SOURCE: driver side door mirror, lock & power windows work intermittenly

check the fuses then look at the door remote switch in the driver door if there is power going to them then the switches need to be replaced/please rate my response thank you very much

Posted on Feb 02, 2009

  • 80 Answers

SOURCE: Volvo V40 Driver side electric window . Goes down

sounds like a missing tooth or stripped gear on the motor or moon gear on the regulator, the door will have to be taken apart and the regulator or motor replaced. If you can grab the top of the glass with your fingers GENTLY pull up while pressing the switch. it may catch another tooth and go up. (**Do not use pliers or any other tool to grab the glass**)

096b3e8.jpg Hope this helps

Posted on Mar 09, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Volvo C70 Convertable Drivers window..

Do you have regulator window for sale left

Posted on Apr 10, 2009

  • 42 Answers

SOURCE: driver's window won't go up

Your contacts in the drivers window switch are failing. Short answer is that you need a new master window switch assembly

Posted on May 13, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Power window blows fuse

Problem fixed as follows:
Purchase a package of five 30 amp ALC type fuses. Replace blown fuse #8 (30 amp). Perform the following test to determine if the problem is isolated to the driver-side front window.
-One at a time, (i.e. only push one window switch button at a time) operate each of the other three windows (passenger side and rear driver side), to determine if the problem is occuring only on the driver side window. If any of them blows the fuse, replace it with a spare and proceed to test the next window. Repeat for each of the three windows. The process described below may also resolve the issue on the other windows if any of them blew the fuse during this test.
-Now, operate the switch for the driver side window. It is expected to work for a brief period (<1sec), but may very quickly blow fuse #8. Replace fuse #8 with one of the new 30 amp ALC fuses.
Remove the door panel, by sliding the speaker forward and removing the three white clips on the bottom of the panel. Also, pry out the screw clip in the panel well, just to the rear of the switch assembly, and remove the plastic bracket that holds in the switch assembly. The panel can now be lifted off.
To access the window mechanism, remove the tape over the oval cutouts near the top. Also, temporarily pull back the white plastic cover over the bottom of the door. Disconnect the white electrical connector near the center of the door (has only a red and black wire for the regulator motor). Using a small battery (motorcycle battery) and jumper leads test the mechanism's operation by connecting the battery directly to the motor wires. Use insulated test clips on the male connector and be careful not to short the clips together. The window mechanism should operate, and by interchanging the jumper wires (reversing battery power polarity), you can make the window go both up and down. Only do this for brief periods of time, as the motor circuit is now uprotected, i.e. there is no fuse in this test circuit. If the movement of the glass seems strained over part of the travel path, apply WD-40 lubricant to the metal rotating pivot point. Also apply silicone spray to the rail guides for the sides of the glass (with the window in the up position) and to the metal horizontal tracks and plastic wheels near the top of the mechanism. Also, spray some silicone lubricant along the bottom of the window on the outside, just above the rubber stripping, and operate the window a couple of times. An up and down test should now result in very smooth and even window movement. Reconnect the motor power wire to its mating connector, replace the tape and white plastic cover, and then replace the door panel. The mechanism should work smoothly, and the fuse should not blow. Total cost: $3.03 for fuses and a little WD-40 and silicone spray which you probably keep on hand.

Posted on May 18, 2009

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2 Answers

Tried it today and none of the windows work from master switch on drivers side except ft passenger window, which went down but will not go back up.


You can't put up the front passenger window with it's own switch ? Did you check the POWER WINDOW RELAY in the instrument panel fuse / relay box ? An you checked POWER fuse 30amp same fuse box ? All window switches have direct power from power window relay !
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hummm strange
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