Question about 1994 Mazda B-Series

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I have a 94 Mazda B4000 pickup, the motor stops but will start after waiting about 30 minutes it will start, it will run for a few miles but stops again, I had the fuel pump relpaced and the motor is still stoping but will run for a few miles than stop again, starting after 30 minutes. What other problems could be causing the motor stop?

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  • Mazda Master
  • 2,760 Answers

A 94 i believe uses a ignition module not a ecm these have the exact symptom you describe when starting to go bad eventually it will fail and not start at all if this is it

Posted on Oct 20, 2013

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  • Contributor
  • 30 Answers

Replace the fuel filling cap

Posted on Oct 20, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

timmybrown
  • 54 Answers

SOURCE: 1994 Mazda B4000 4WD V6. Check engine light on. Truck

if i remember right if the battery light and check engine light is on, your alternators may be bad. your battery may just have enough to keep it running for a minute or so. you can take it out and get it tested at a auto parts store. or try charging your battery for awhile and see if it stays on longer. if this is completely wrong let me know

Posted on Apr 08, 2009

  • 32 Answers

SOURCE: 94 MAZDA MX3 REPLACED FUEL

check the fuel pump relay. it is located under the hood in the fuse box directly in front of the battery

Posted on May 03, 2009

  • 51 Answers

SOURCE: 1988 Mazda B2200 starts well, but as it warms up,

I would trying to either checked fuel filter or if that dosent work chang the fuel pressure regulator.

Posted on Jul 19, 2009

  • 107 Answers

SOURCE: my mazda mx5 starts sometimes and then it doesnt

This sounds like a pretty common problem with a lot of cars - my guess is that your solenoid for your starter motor or maybe even the starter motor itself is faulty.
A simple test to verify that you have a starter motor/solenoid problem is to turn on your headlights before attempting to start your car. When it starts sucessfully, your headlights should dim briefly. When you try to start it and achieve little more than a clicking noise, you'll notice the headlights aren't dimming because the starter motor isn't drawing an additional load from the battery.
Now - to diagnose your problem and fix it:
1. Check your battery voltage with a multimeter - you should have 12.5V or so across the terminals - any less than about 11.8 and you should think about a new battery whilst you're at it. However, as it seems to start fine sometimes, I'm going to assume this is not the problem
2. Check that you're getting power from the ignition switch to the solenoid. The light-dimming check should help you out on this one, however, we'll make doubly sure. Locate your starter motor and the solenoid (the solenoid will be wired to the starter motor - the circuit is basically battery, ignition key switch, solenoid and starter motor). Disconnect the ignition cable from the solenoid (this is the heavier cable) and put a multimeter from it to ground (somewhere metal on the chassis). Get someone to turn the key to ON and check for 12V at the ignition cable. (Always put the car in neutral and the parking brake on etc...). If you don't get 12V here you've got an intermittent connectivity problem and need to trace your wiring back to your ignition switch and from there to the battery and try to find a poor connection or potential short. Judging by the 'clicking' sound, I don't think this is your problem either.
3. Now we want to test the starter motor to ensure it's OK (I think it will be and you'll find the problem is the solenoid). To do this, we need a large screwdriver with an nicely insulated handle. On the SOLENOID, you'll find to large electrical post connectors. Short across these with the screwdriver - be careful to only touch the handle or you're going to think someone has just kicked you in the groin...You should get some serious sparks and hear your starter motor whirring (don't let it run too long or you'll flatten your battery and possibly damage the starter motor). If your starter motor makes any nasty grinding kinds of noises, you need to replace or rebuild it. If it doesn't move, you need to replace it (or get it rebuilt).
4. If none of the other problem have suggested a component at fault, you probably have a faulty or 'sticky' solenoid. To check this, find which of the two heavy post connectors is connected to the starter motor. Place one probe of the multimeter in this wire and ground the other (metal on the chassis). Have someone turn the key (neutral and parking brake) and check the voltage. You should read 12V and hear a 'clunk' from the solenoid (this is the solenoid activating and sending power to the starter motor). If you're getting a low voltage and not hearing a clunk your solenoid is probably on it's way out and needs to be replaced. A quick fix that often works is to have your helper try to start the car and give the solenoid a bit of a tap with a rubber mallet. This might jar the mechanism loose and give the electromagnet a chance to pull it into the connecting position and power your starter motor.
Hope this helps and please don't hesitate to contact me for further assistance as I'm sure I haven't been able to cover everything in this...

Posted on Sep 01, 2009

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: My Mazda mx3 starts up idles for a couple seconds then dies.

Before you replace the fuel pump, I would check the cheaiper parts first. Such as fuel filter and injectors.

Posted on Feb 14, 2010

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