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1.6 engine, timing belt. 4A not 4AF. F = twin cam.
V.I.N. code 6 not 5, the 5is twin cam 4AFE twin.
the car is a Corolla, and as such info is easy to find on toys,
so that the engine real name is. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_A_engine#4A
so you dont want all the facts? marks and how to set tension correctly? really? at #12 and 18?
getting all this right, makes it GO 60k more miles, (a fact)
the words.
Remove the timing belt covers using procedures described earlier in this section.
If not done as part of the cover removal, rotate the crankshaft clockwise to the TDC/compression position for No. 1 cylinder.
Loosen the timing belt idler pulley to relieve the tension on the belt, move the pulley away from the belt and temporarily tighten the bolt to hold it in the loose position.
Make matchmarks on the belt and both pulleys showing the exact placement of the belt. Mark an arrow on the belt showing its direction of rotation.
Carefully slip the timing belt off the pulleys.
dont move cam, with belt off it warns.
Remove the idler pulley bolt, pulley and return spring.
Use an adjustable wrench mounted on the flats of the camshaft to hold the cam from moving. Loosen the center bolt in the camshaft timing pulley and remove the pulley.
Check the timing belt carefully for any signs of cracking or deterioration. Pay particular attention to the area where each tooth or cog attaches to the backing of the belt. If the belt shows signs of damage, check the contact faces of the pulleys for possible burrs or scratches.
Check the idler pulley by holding it in your hand and spinning it. It should rotate freely and quietly. Any sign of grinding or abnormal noise indicates replacement of the pulley.
Check the free length of the tension spring. Correct length is 38.5mm measured at the inside faces of the hooks. A spring which has stretched during use will not apply the correct tension to the pulley; replace the spring.
If you can test the tension of the spring, look for 8.4 lbs. of tension at 50mm of length. If in doubt, replace the spring.
Reinstall the camshaft timing belt pulley, making sure the pulley fits properly on the shaft and that the timing marks align correctly. Tighten the center bolt to 43 ft. lbs.
Before reinstalling the belt, double check that the crank and camshafts are exactly in their correct positions. The alignment mark on the end of the camshaft bearing cap should show through the small hole in the camshaft pulley and the small mark on the crankshaft timing belt pulley should align with the mark on the oil pump.
Reinstall the timing belt idler pulley and the tension spring. Pry the pulley to the left as far as it will go and temporarily tighten the retaining bolt. This will hold the pulley in its loosest position.
Install the timing belt, observing the matchmarks made earlier. Make sure the belt is fully and squarely seated on the upper and lower pulleys.
Loosen the retaining bolt for the timing belt idler pulley and allow it to tension the belt.
Temporarily install the crankshaft pulley bolt and turn the crank clockwise 2 full revolutions from TDC to TDC. Insure that each timing mark realigns exactly.
Tighten the timing belt idler pulley retaining bolt to 27 ft. lbs.
Measure the timing belt deflection (Tool 23600 B or similar), looking for 5-6mm of deflection at 4.4 pounds of pressure. If the deflection is not correct, readjust the idler pulley by repeating steps 15 through 18.
Remove the bolt from the end of the crankshaft.
Install the timing belt guide onto the crankshaft and install the lower timing belt cover.
Continue reassembly of the timing belt covers as outlined previously in this section.
Special Tools Needed:
Honda Crankshaft Pulley Removal Tool
3/4" breaker bar
Procedure:
-Remove tire and place the Pilot on a jack stand.
-Remove the clips holding the fender liner and lower splash shield in place (x7) and fold them out of the way.
-Make sure the #1 piston is on top dead center using the marks on the crank pulley and lower timing belt cover (19mm in the crank pulley).
-Remove the Alternator-Compressor belt (14mm boxend) & Power Steering belt. (2-12mm and 1-12mm tensioner bolt)
-Loosen the crank pulley. If you have an impact wrench or a long breaker bar it makes it easier to remove the bolt. You will also need a special tool crankshaft pulley holder (50mm) (19mm and special tool).
-Remove the side engine mount bracket (5-14mm bolts).
-Remove the crankshaft pulley.
-Remove the oil dipstick & tube (10mm).
-Remove the front & rear 'upper covers' of the timing belt housing, moving the wire harness out of the way first (5-10mm bolts for each cover).
-Remove the lower cover (7-10mm bolts).
-Remove the engine mount bracket that is bolted to the block (3-14mm bolts).
-Remove the hydraulic tensioner (2-10mm bolts).
-Remove the tensioner pulley (you will reuse the inner sleave) (14mm bolt).
-Remove the idler pulley bolt (14mm bolt with thread locker on it) (I used Loctite 242 during the reinstall because I had it on the shelf).
-Remove the timing belt.
-Before installing a new timing belt, make sure the pulleys, belt guide plate, upper & lower covers are clean and check to see if the crank and cams have rotated (mine did not move).
-The install is the reverse order of removal (make sure you torque everything correctly!)
-The removal of the lock pin in the hydraulic tensioner gave me a little trouble so I used pliers.
-Once the crank pulley is back on, check the lower timing mark (and the cam marks) before the top covers are installed.
Depends on what you call easy and if you are mechanically inclined. First jack up the vehicle, remove the tire, remove the inner fender cover to accessthe balancer pulley. remove the drive belts, remove the crankshaft bolt and the remove the pulley. Then remove the bolts holding the lower timing cover in place. Install in reverse order. Average time to replace the cover is about 2 hours.
The pully ( harmonic ballancer) must be removed in order to gain access to the timming belt...
Take the wheel off and the plastic shield off.... and you should find that you have room for a tool on that pully afterall.
Turn the crankshaft pulley until it is at Top Dead Center.
Remove the pulley belt, water pump pulley, crankshaft pulley, and timing gear cover. Mark the direction of timing belt rotation.
Loosen, but do not remove, the tensioner adjusting bolt and pivot bolt.
Slide the timing belt off of the camshaft timing gear and the crankshaft pulley gear and remove it from the engine.
To remove the camshaft timing gear pulley, first remove the center bolt and then remove the pulley with a pulley remover or a brass hammer. This can be accomplished by simply removing the timing belt upper cover, loosening the tensioner bolts, and sliding the timing belt off of the gear to expose the gear for removal.
NOTE: If you remove the timing gear with the timing belt cover in place, be sure not to let the woodruff key fall inside the timing cover when removing the gear from the camshaft. Inspect the timing belt. Replace if over 90,000 miles old, if oil soaked (find source of oil leak also), or if worn on leading edges of belt teeth.
Fig. 1: Timing belt and front cover assembly — 1984–87 engines
Fig. 2: Positioning the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys before installing the timing belt — 1984–87 engines
Fig. 3: Timing belt tension adjustment — 1984–87 engines
To install:
Be sure to install the crankshaft pulley and the camshaft timing gear pulley in the top dead center position. Align the marks on the camshaft timing gear so they are parallel with the top of the cylinder head and the woodruff key is facing up.
NOTE: When installing the timing belt, do not allow oil to come in contact with the belt. Oil will cause the rubber to swell. Be careful not to twist the belt unnecessarily or bend in a 90°angle, since it is made with fiberglass; nor should you use tools having sharp edges when installing or removing the belt. Be sure to install the belt with the arrow facing in the same direction it was facing during removal.
After installing the belt, adjust the belt tension by first rotating the crankshaft counterclockwise 1/4 turn. Then, re-tighten the adjusting bolt and finally the tensioner pivot bolt.
Replace the other components removed for belt access.
Start the car, check timing and adjust if necessary
WARNING Do not remove the adjusting or pivot bolts, only loosen them. When adjusting, do not use any force other than the adjuster spring. If the belt is too tight, it will result in a shortened belt life.
If your having issues removing the crank pulley bolt you can get a special tool from snap on tools.It slides inside the pulley and holds it in place so you can break the bolt loose.Once the bolt is removed the pulley will slide off.
Accord alternator removal: Before you do anything, take careful note of the drive belt tension because you are going to have to adjust the belt back to that approximate tension when you replace the alternator.
Next, detach the negative battery terminal (if you have an anti-theft radio, make sure you have the activation code because when you hook the battery back up your radio will just say “code” and wait for you to put in the five-digit code. You should have gotten it with but not in the manual).
Important: mark and detach the electrical connector and any ground straps from the alternator.
Loosen the alternator pivot bolt (the one that the alternator pivots on as it is tightened against the drive belt).
Loosen the adjusting bolt (the one that tightens the alternator against the drive belt).
Remove the adjusting bolt and the pivot bolt, then detach the drive belt (push it off the pulley when you can move the alternator).
Important note: you will have to remove the bracket bolt located next to the adjustment bolt and the mounting bolt located lower and at a 90 degree angle, in order to remove the adjustment bolt and assembly.
Installation is the reverse, but if you are replacing the alternator, make sure the one you get has a pulley on it (or take the one you have the have the seller switch them), and make sure you get the same one (size and terminal location) that you have.
Hope this helps you.
jack up on stands, remove LF wheel and water shield. disconnect battery, buy a crankshaft pulley holding tool from OTC, swing p.s. reservoir out of the way, remove both accesory belts, front motor mount, valve cover, dipstick and tube, crank pulley, timing belt cover, set engine at TDC #1 (align marks), remove nut on tensioner shaft to loosen both belts, remove the belts and tensioners (replace all), replace water pump NOW, install timing pulley, reinstall spring (use dipstick tube bolt to hold back the timing pulley with the slot in the bracket on the pulley until the belt is installed), install balance shaft belt, pulley and spring, once tensioned rotate engine once and retension by loosening the nut and retightening. Make sure the marks are still lined up, and reinstall everything. New valve cover gasket set with silicone in the corners. fill with coolant and bleed system once finished. it is a good idea to also change all the oil seals while you are in there.
there should be an idler pully, one that doesn't drive anything mounted to a flat black bracket that is then bolted to your engine. That pulley has a 14 or 15 mm nut in the middle of the pulley. loosen it, but don't remove it. Behind the pulley on the bracket is a small bolt head. that will loosen the pulley shaft, allowing you to remove the belt. The bolt also may be on the underside, but it's there around that pulley on the bracket. Also be careful the bolt isn't seized, if it snapps you will have a very hard time getting the tension back on the new belt. You may want to spray it first when you find it. You may also need to remove another belt if there's one infront of it, like an a/c belt or alternator belt, loosening the alternator to remove the belt. It's very tight, and it may help to remove the wheel and plastic inner fender sheild, using a pair of needle nose pliers to gently remove the pop snaps.
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