Question about Cars & Trucks
A lot of suggestions - however It could be numerous problems - I really think you need to consult a reputable auto radiator repair shop - you need someone that knows what they are talking about to physically look at the car to solve the problem - this will save you a lot of time and expense and heartache. ?
Posted on Dec 24, 2014
The problem is your water pumpe is faulty or maybe need new gaskets
Posted on Oct 19, 2013
Those cars had huge problem with upper and lower intake plenum gaskets leaking. Look for coolant pooling around intake plenum.
Posted on Oct 19, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: running hot
Sounds like Clutch in your fan
The coolant level is right on, no hoses are leaking and the accessory belt is intact. You start the engine, let it idle and make a visual inspection. There's no sign of belt slippage.
If your car is like most, the cooling fan is mounted to its drive pulley via a clutch. Clutch fans operate at different speeds under different conditions to help reduce drain on the engine and to save fuel. When the engine is hot, the clutch fan runs nearly as fast as the engine. When the engine is cold, the fan runs much more slowly.
The fan clutch operation is regulated by a valve that is opened and closed by a thermostatic spring. The valve controls the flow of a viscous silicone fluid between chambers in the clutch assembly. When the engine is cold, the clutch is essentially disengaged, which is why the fan runs at its slowest compared to the engine's speed. As the engine warms up, the air flowing to the fan assembly becomes hotter. The hotter air causes the thermostatic spring to unwind and open the valve. Silicone fluid from the reservoir chamber flows into the main chamber, engaging the clutch, and the fan spins faster (though it's still slightly slower than the engine.
Hope this helps!
Posted on Dec 14, 2008
it sounds like the heater core is clogged bad if u know someone with a air compressor put a air nossel on it that you pull the trigger to blos air in to the heater core after you take the lines off i had to do this before on a jeep cherokee it did the job
Posted on Jan 11, 2009
I had the same problem on my 1999 Pontiac GA 3.4 litre. Replaced a bunch of stuff. It just kept pushing the coolant out the overflow once the temp got to 200 + like to drove me nuts. Ended up being that reservoir. If you measure the O.D. of the cap(brand new cap) and the I.D. of the reservoir filler neck there is no way it will seal(even tried to fit a different type cap,no luck). The system has to be able to build pressure or the coolant will boil out at 212. Causing the coolant to be pushed out the reservoir. Why? you say or How? did the filler neck increase in size. I dont know but GM has write ups about this problem. They say sand it with a piece of sandpaper to smooth it. Maybe someone sanded it way to much?? Around $40 bucks and I was on my way. Hope this helps someone.
Posted on Apr 11, 2009
SOURCE: My heater only blows out
check the vacuum lines going to the h-vac (under the dash where the blower motor is) make sure there are no vacuum leaks if there are no leaks start checking the blend door acuators firts locate all of them then start looking for the one that closes and opens the cold and hot blend door. turn the nob to heat and the other one to panel (not a/c panel just air) then if your not sure which one controls the hot and cold blend door start checking to see which acuator has vucuum going to them if there is vucmuum going to them but the acuator does not move replace it.but if it does compress take the rod lose from the blend door and see if the door in side the box is broken. if is not replace the climate controler on the dash. i hope this helps.
Posted on Nov 11, 2009
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