Question about 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan

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Hi, after van has ran for awhile when you come to a stop the idle is really rough. almost like it wants to stall. then when you let off the brake and give it gas it hesitates and stumbles before accelerating. runs and idles fine besides when you stop. mechanic has recently replaced ac compressor(ac was not cold) and the alternator. scan shows nothing wrong and he doesn't have a clue to the problem.

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Before reading, carefully check all vacuum and electrical connections for security. Also check the grounds: Battery negative cable, two engine ground straps and on-body ground points. These tend to get high resistance as the car ages and usually don't produce any DTCs unless sensor connections are to blame: the ones I have seen again and again are random multiple misfire codes (P0300~P030x where x is the maximum number of cylinders your engine has) due to faulty connections at the cam position sensor and crank sensor. If you've ruled these out, see below:

Low idle, with no codes and no timing issues center around vacuum leaks and fuel delivery problems, especially at the idle setting. Check carefully for vacuum leaks by using a soapy spray (I use windex without any ammonia for this) and spray around the throttle unit and other vacuum lines. Look for bubbles forming around the joint. Take care not to spray electrical connections or anywhere near the alternator or battery connections.

If no code is produced (and no MIL), that problem sounds like low fuel pressure. Get the system pressure tested. If it were a timing issue (cam timing), that system will turn on the MIL for a code that usually says "Timing belt off 1 tooth".
When the cam position sensor fails, it does produce a code and the system runs in 'limp in' mode - behavior on Mopars is you only can depress the accelerator pedal about 1/4 the way down before the engine management system backs off the timing/AF mixture settings (it will feel like the engine may stall and you will have no acceleration).

If this test passes, then move towards the idle valve - it will be inline with the throttle body, usually mounted above or underneath it. It looks a lot like a motor with two hoses and an electrical connector. If this unit cannot move or is stuck closed, it will cause a very low/uncontrolled idle. On newer cars, instead of just going open and closed, they are 'pulsed' open and you will hear a faint buzzing noise with the Key On and Engine Off (KOEO) indicating the computer is pulsing it open to maintain a base idle speed (usually around 750-800 raps a minute).

In other cases, I've found the coolant temperature sensor to be the culprit and/or its connections. They sometimes won't set a code but the car will idle terribly as the engine thinks the engine is very cold (NTC resistor) and will dump a substantial quantity of fuel into the engine, if the sensor is dead open or the connector has broken. You may or may not smell gas.

The MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor also could be suspect if the vacuum connection (usually an elbow rubber connector) has failed. Unless the sensor has failed (very rare, but does occur) the system may not detect an open loop and turn on the MIL for that. Instead, it will continue to receive a very weak signal from the MAP but not compute base idle/A/F mixture correctly.

Finally, the Throttle Position Sensor, a linear device mounted on the throttle body, could be getting weak (meaning the resistive element is getting dirty) and producing an error signal, again, it won't always set a code, you need to meter it with a high impedance ohm-megger. Look for a varying, even change of resistance as you move the throttle through to WOT. Note these usually have at least three pins, one for the resistance and two for power. Ensure you're on the correct pins when you meter this.

Posted on Oct 21, 2013

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Check the throttle body for build up. I had the same problem with my JEEP Grand Cherokee. Found dirt build up around the throttle plate. Cleaned and now it works fine.

Posted on Oct 21, 2013


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 88 dodge dakota has rough idle and stalls at slow down.

Change/thoroughly clean the idle control solenoid. It may be sticking and causing rough idling.
Cleaning it is unlikely to be more than a short-term solution.

Posted on Jan 07, 2009

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SOURCE: rough idle, backfire on acceleration

check everything you can under the hood your air intake system all of it especially make sure all clamps are tight .. and make sure all vacuum hoses are good and not cracking or broken or just loose . you might run a little fuel cleaner through a tank of gas too cleaning the engine fuel system up some. just a few ideas.. Jerry

Posted on Apr 12, 2009

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SOURCE: engine running rough

It sounds like maybe yu have a fuel filter that getting plugged up.
To check this, see if you can remove it from the engine, then very carefully blow thru it in the direction the fuel travels, if clean you should be able to blow thru it easily, if not then replace.
The P132 is (E132) .................. Knock Sensor Circuitry Failure .... The knock sensor is what prevent engine ping from low octane. ...
It could also be you just got some bad gas.
You also might try topping off the tank with gas from another place and bring the octane level up if that is the problem.
Hope this helps
Good luck

Posted on May 20, 2009

66 chrgr
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SOURCE: engine hesitation in gear.

put some plug wires on the car.

Posted on Jun 16, 2009

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SOURCE: rough loud engine sound when van idles

sounds like your lifters

Posted on Dec 05, 2009

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