Question about 2000 Buick LeSabre
The third wire may connect to the switch that activates the blower motor. Trace the wire to its source.
Posted on Oct 19, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I had the same problem with mine and I replaced the blower motor, and still didn't work. The problem ended up being the blower motor control module. I have the auto temp control, so my replacement part was pretty expensive. Found a used one online fairly cheap. Hope this helps.
Posted on Dec 24, 2008
if the blwers are not working it could be as simple as the fuse blown ifthis is not the case it could be the actual switch that has burnt out, i had the same problem in my ford focus i just replaced the switch in the dash (the on/off switch) i just went to the vehicle dealer, if this is not the case then the blower motor could be either burnt out or seized if thats the case (highley unlikely) then its a dash strip job and shouldnt really be done by an amature.
Posted on Jan 19, 2009
If yours is dual zone, I believe the resistor (blower control module) is a solid state. Did you check it using the fan speed selector and test the voltage output on the purple wire?
The gray black wire going into the resistor is a variable voltage output from the heater control panel. This signal is amplified by the resistor/blower control module.
The black wire out of the resistor also needs proper good ground.
There is a fuse in the underhood relay/fuse panel that feedback from the resistor output to the blower (purple wire) is also fed back to the heater control panel. Verify this fuse is good.
When blower motors go bad they will often absorb a lot of electrical current. This current has to go through the blower control/resistor and will often burn them out due to the heat developed from the high current load.
These resistors are also mounted in the airflow out of the fan motor to help cool them so if the fan is still drawing current and not blowing the resistor overloads and burns it out.
Not sure how you tested the resistor but I suspect yours is faulty.
If you would like more advise let me know.
Posted on Jan 05, 2010
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The 2005 Spectra heating system comprises 4 main components and its associated wiring.
1. Blower Relay- supplies power to the blower motor when the key is in the on position
2. Blower motor- Located in the right side dashboard area near the passengers right foot. ( photo attached)
3. Resistor- located on the ground side of the circuit to control speeds 1 thru 3. Note" High speed bypasses this component.
4. A/C Control Module- This is the control pad in the dashboard with the blower speed controls.
The easiest way to diagnose this circuit is to split the circuit in half to determine if you have a power supply problem, ground control problem or a failed component. From your concern I am going to assume that none of the speeds work. If some of the speeds work let me know which ones and I will revise the diagnosis tree I made for you.
Key state for all tests is Key on/Engine off. Heater on and blower setting between 1 and 4.
Step 1. Verify the 30Amp blower fuse in the underhood fuse box has power and is not "Blown.
Step 2. Locate the blower motor by removing the lower kick panel on the passenger side dashboard and glove box. You will need a Phillips head screwdriver.
Step 3. Disconnect the two pin connector at the blower Connector G-02 in the attached photo. The red and blue wire is the power supply wire to the motor so with the key on/engine off check for power with a test light or volt meter. Spec: Battery Voltage. If good proceed to step 4. If no power proceed to step
Step 3.a.- the blower relay above the blower (connector G-06) and verify you have power leaving the relay. This is the red and blue wire ( Pin 4) I attached a photo of the connector to help locate the correct wire. If you have power at this pin the relay is working and you have an open between the relay and the blower motor. If you do not have power at this pin proceed to step 3.b. Verify that the relay clicks when you disconnect it from the harness and plug it back in. If it "clicks" and you have no power at pin 4 you have a bad relay. If it does not click you will need to check the power supplies to the relay. These are pins 3 (blue wire) and Pin 5 (Red wire). Be careful to check the correct blue wire as the other blue is the ground for the relay. (Pin 1). If you do not have power at either wire you have an open in the harness and further diagnosis will be needed. If you do have power at these wires then check the remaining blue wire for a ground. If you do not have a ground you may have a bad control module. To check this remove the plastic cover around the control head and radio and remove the control head from its mounting but leave plugged in to the harness. Check the white and blue wire in pin 21 of the large connector. It is located 3 pins in from the bottom left of the connector. (See attached photo). If you do not have a ground then you have a bad control module. To verify this you can ground this wire with a test light or fused wire and see if the relay "Clicks". If you do have a ground at this pin then you have an open between the relay and control head.
Step 4. - Ground check- Go to the blower motor connector and check the green and red ground wire (Pin 2) for a ground with the blower switch set to 4. This bypasses the resistor easing diagnosis. If you have a ground then the blower motor is at fault. If you do not have a ground proceed to step 5.
Step 5. Access the control head large connector. Leaving it plugged into the control head check pin 23 (Yellow black wire in the lower left corner of the connector) and verify you have a ground. If you do not have a ground you have a faulty control module. If you do have a ground you have an open between the blower motor and the control head requiring further diagnosis.
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