Question about 2000 Buick LeSabre

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The blower motor stopped working, all fuses good and it has power to the blower.It has 3 wires going to it,1has power 1 appears to be a ground but the 3rd is smaller and black.what is it?

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  • Expert
  • 75 Answers

The third wire may connect to the switch that activates the blower motor. Trace the wire to its source.

Posted on Oct 19, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: !993 Buick Le Sabre Heater motor does not work at any speed.

I had the same problem with mine and I replaced the blower motor, and still didn't work. The problem ended up being the blower motor control module. I have the auto temp control, so my replacement part was pretty expensive. Found a used one online fairly cheap. Hope this helps.

Posted on Dec 24, 2008

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: blower motor is not working - is there another fuse?

if the blwers are not working it could be as simple as the fuse blown ifthis is not the case it could be the actual switch that has burnt out, i had the same problem in my ford focus i just replaced the switch in the dash (the on/off switch) i just went to the vehicle dealer, if this is not the case then the blower motor could be either burnt out or seized if thats the case (highley unlikely) then its a dash strip job and shouldnt really be done by an amature.

Posted on Jan 19, 2009

emissionwiz
  • 75117 Answers

SOURCE: Low speeds on Blower Motor do not work.

this is caused by a burnt out blower motor speed control resistor module.

Posted on Mar 10, 2009

  • 316 Answers

SOURCE: 1995 buick park ave blower motor stays on

Replace your blower motor relay. It's located under the hood on the firewall passenger side.93ecbeb.jpg

Posted on May 12, 2009

  • 1168 Answers

SOURCE: Blower motor won't work, even with new motor.

Hello Travis.
If yours is dual zone, I believe the resistor (blower control module) is a solid state. Did you check it using the fan speed selector and test the voltage output on the purple wire?
The gray black wire going into the resistor is a variable voltage output from the heater control panel. This signal is amplified by the resistor/blower control module.
The black wire out of the resistor also needs proper good ground.
There is a fuse in the underhood relay/fuse panel that feedback from the resistor output to the blower (purple wire) is also fed back to the heater control panel. Verify this fuse is good.

When blower motors go bad they will often absorb a lot of electrical current. This current has to go through the blower control/resistor and will often burn them out due to the heat developed from the high current load.
These resistors are also mounted in the airflow out of the fan motor to help cool them so if the fan is still drawing current and not blowing the resistor overloads and burns it out.
Not sure how you tested the resistor but I suspect yours is faulty.
If you would like more advise let me know.

KL


Posted on Jan 05, 2010

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2 Answers

No front heat/fan but rear heat/fan works fine.


NAPA part:
Blower Motor Resistor
$ 26.49 /ea
Part Number: BR450
Product Line: Echlin Ignition Parts

Nov 10, 2014 | 1995 Cadillac Eldorado

1 Answer

Air and heat blower will not come on. 1998 sonoma 2.2l


start by checking fuse. if fuse is good, aquire a test light, check the test light on the battery to make sure the test light works. Power to ground = light. access blower motor under pass-side dash panel.(probablly have to remove underdash cover, secured with pop-in style fasteners.) locate blower motor. 2 wires w/connector Purple-power, black-ground. check for power at purple w/test light on known good ground, with ign on, and blower switch on high. if it has power, hook clip of test light to a power source, ( + on battery w a jumper wire) and probe black wire, with test light. if no light, jumper that wire to a good ground. if it lights, you have a bad b-motor. if no light on power side of blower motor, and fuse is good, check power to swith. blower circuit may have 2 fuses. 1 for high and a 2nd for the lower speeds. if switch has power to it, and power is transfered to another wire when switched, suspect the blower motor resistor. James White, White Automotive, Hopkins Mo. ASE tech, 17 yrs exp.

Feb 06, 2013 | 1998 GMC Sonoma

1 Answer

The heater fan just stopped...


Check fuse #14(10amp) located in fuse box under driver steering wheel behind the lower dash cover.
Check fuse#12(40amp) located in fuse box under hood.
Replace fuse(s) if any are blow.

If fuse are good.Check blower and transisto next.
Do steps 1-3 with turn key on
1. Unplug connector and check for 12v at the blue/white wire at the blower motor(2-NAT)
-if there's no voltage you might have a bad relay or open in the wire
-if there's about 12v, go to step 2
2.Plug connector for blower motor and unplug connector for blower transistor(4-NAT). Take a jumper wire and jump the blue/black wire to body ground.
-if blower does not run, replace blower motor
-if blower motor runs, go to step 3
3.check the black wire at(4-NAT) for good ground.
-if you have good ground, then replace blower motor transistor.
good luck

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Jan 18, 2011 | 2004 Honda Element

1 Answer

2005 kia spectra blower dont come on for the heater


The 2005 Spectra heating system comprises 4 main components and its associated wiring.

1. Blower Relay- supplies power to the blower motor when the key is in the on position

2. Blower motor- Located in the right side dashboard area near the passengers right foot. ( photo attached)

3. Resistor- located on the ground side of the circuit to control speeds 1 thru 3. Note" High speed bypasses this component.

4. A/C Control Module- This is the control pad in the dashboard with the blower speed controls.

The easiest way to diagnose this circuit is to split the circuit in half to determine if you have a power supply problem, ground control problem or a failed component. From your concern I am going to assume that none of the speeds work. If some of the speeds work let me know which ones and I will revise the diagnosis tree I made for you.

Key state for all tests is Key on/Engine off. Heater on and blower setting between 1 and 4.

Step 1. Verify the 30Amp blower fuse in the underhood fuse box has power and is not "Blown.

Step 2. Locate the blower motor by removing the lower kick panel on the passenger side dashboard and glove box. You will need a Phillips head screwdriver.

Step 3. Disconnect the two pin connector at the blower Connector G-02 in the attached photo. The red and blue wire is the power supply wire to the motor so with the key on/engine off check for power with a test light or volt meter. Spec: Battery Voltage. If good proceed to step 4. If no power proceed to step

Step 3.a.- the blower relay above the blower (connector G-06) and verify you have power leaving the relay. This is the red and blue wire ( Pin 4) I attached a photo of the connector to help locate the correct wire. If you have power at this pin the relay is working and you have an open between the relay and the blower motor. If you do not have power at this pin proceed to step 3.b. Verify that the relay clicks when you disconnect it from the harness and plug it back in. If it "clicks" and you have no power at pin 4 you have a bad relay. If it does not click you will need to check the power supplies to the relay. These are pins 3 (blue wire) and Pin 5 (Red wire). Be careful to check the correct blue wire as the other blue is the ground for the relay. (Pin 1). If you do not have power at either wire you have an open in the harness and further diagnosis will be needed. If you do have power at these wires then check the remaining blue wire for a ground. If you do not have a ground you may have a bad control module. To check this remove the plastic cover around the control head and radio and remove the control head from its mounting but leave plugged in to the harness. Check the white and blue wire in pin 21 of the large connector. It is located 3 pins in from the bottom left of the connector. (See attached photo). If you do not have a ground then you have a bad control module. To verify this you can ground this wire with a test light or fused wire and see if the relay "Clicks". If you do have a ground at this pin then you have an open between the relay and control head.

Step 4. - Ground check- Go to the blower motor connector and check the green and red ground wire (Pin 2) for a ground with the blower switch set to 4. This bypasses the resistor easing diagnosis. If you have a ground then the blower motor is at fault. If you do not have a ground proceed to step 5.

Step 5. Access the control head large connector. Leaving it plugged into the control head check pin 23 (Yellow black wire in the lower left corner of the connector) and verify you have a ground. If you do not have a ground you have a faulty control module. If you do have a ground you have an open between the blower motor and the control head requiring further diagnosis. simplesol907.jpgsimplesol907_0.jpgsimplesol907_1.jpgsimplesol907_2.jpgsimplesol907_3.jpg

Jan 08, 2011 | 2005 Kia Spectra

2 Answers

My heat has stop blowing. replaced blower, and heater on off switch. what else could it be?


LX? DX? EX? Hatchback? sedan? wagon?coupe? engine size? did you check the fuse? Fuse #19, 30 amps in the auxilary fuse box (your owners manual may show the location ,it may be near the blower ?). The Blue/White wire at the heater blower motor should be HOT (12v) with key on. If you ground the Blue/Black wire the motor should run full speed.

Dec 17, 2010 | 1991 Honda Civic

1 Answer

I have 2002 infinity I35 and the blower motor stop working ,I took out the blower motor to make sure was good. YES the blower motor still working .the only think I really don't know how to check is Blower...


WELL YOU HAVE TO USE A VOLT METER CONNECT ONE VOLT METER WIRES TO GOOD GROUND AND THE OTHER VOLT METER WIRES GOES TO EACH SWITCH SPEED.IF VOLT METER GET VOLTAGE A 1 OR 2 CONTROL SPEED RESISTOR BAD.IF RESISTOR BAD YOU WILL GET 1 OR 2 BLOWER MOTOR SPEEDS.IF BLOWER MOTOR WORKING.CHECK THE AC AND HEATER CONTROL SWITCH FUSE OR CHECK BLOWER MOTOR FUSE AND RELAY.IF ALL GOOD SO FAR CONTROL SWITCH ITSELF COULD BE FAULTY.

Nov 05, 2010 | Infiniti I35 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Heating


check your fuses sometimes when a blower motor goes out or gets replaced it pops a fuse if this does not turn out to be the problem its probably the power connection to the blower motor itself make sure the ground wire got placed back on the motor and has a good connection to the body and the power wire is free of corrosion and has a good connection

if this doesn't work get a 12v tester light from your local Walmart Kmart Target there about 5.00 place the ground on the body and push the sharp end into the power wire for the blower motor make sure the a/c switch is on. the tester light should come on if it doesn't check connection to the body / ground and try again if the light comes on there is power and the motor may be bad or have a bad connection if it does not you must have a blown fuse or a problem with the power switch

I hope this helps

Jul 20, 2009 | 2000 BMW 3 Series

1 Answer

The blower won't work, fuses are good, i suspect the switch in the dash but can't get it out to put test lite to it 96 ford tarus 4 dr,


3 causes: 1 blower motor inactive 2 dash switch 3 speed control.
Check blower motor by jumping 12 volts to power wire.Also jump ground side to be sure wiring is viable. If motor is operating then check speed control. Located in duct work under hood.5 wire connector. Batt voltage should be present at one wire.Apply test lite to all wires in connector and see if speeds are there. If not then control is bad. If o/k then dash switch is likely to blame. The dash switch controls what wires from the speed control are to be grounded. It does not control voltage to the motor but controls what wires are to be grounded to control fan speeds.PS check your fuses with a test lite to be sure Good luck Moe

Apr 23, 2009 | 1996 Ford Taurus

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