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How to change wheel bearings on 2001 Saturn sl

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

tepfy
  • 319 Answers

SOURCE: Can't pull out the hub bearing assembly on a 1993

  1. Remove the steering knuckle assembly from the vehicle, as described earlier in this section.
  2. For 1991 vehicles, remove the 3 dust shield fasteners and separate the shield from the assembly.
  3. If equipped, remove the Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) wheel speed sensor from the knuckle.
  4. Assemble wheel bearing removing tool SA9159S or equivalent using the hub driver, hub driver screw, bridge retainer and bridge. Install the tool to the knuckle and secure the assembly in a vise using the bridge as the vise contact point.
  5. Hold the hub driver with a wrench and tighten the hub driver screw to remove the hub. If the inner bearing race is pulled out with the hub, remove the race with a bearing race remover. The service tool can be used by assembling the inner race puller, 2 bridge retainer plates, 2 bolts and 2 flat washers.
  6. Inspect the hub at the bearing location for pitting, scoring or wear, and replace if necessary.
  7. Remove the assembly from the vise and remove the wheel hub removal tools.
  8. Remove the bearing retainer snapring.
  9. Position the knuckle in a shop press on the knuckle support tube, and press the bearing from the knuckle with a small driver.
  10. Inspect the knuckle bore for pitting, scoring, wear or corrosion. If damage cannot be easily cleaned with light sanding, the knuckle must be replaced.

Posted on Mar 20, 2009

stevenhurc
  • 450 Answers

SOURCE: grinding noise comming from front passenger side. 2001 saturn L

check that you havent bent the baking plate behind rotor or drum that it is just touching the disc rotor and any anti rattle clips on brake caliper that they are fitted correctly.

Posted on Jun 03, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: My 1997 saturn sl is leaking coolant. Where is

th pump is right under the ac pump take the passenger tire off and plastic cover and it is the bottom pulley on right

Posted on Jun 27, 2009

matney68
  • 426 Answers

SOURCE: does my 2001 saturn sl 1.9l have a timing belt or chain?

It is a chain and its not the easiest but it could be worse.It is as follows:
1.9L SOHC Engine

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
  2. Drain the engine oil.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Right front wheel and splash shield
    NOTE: Place a 1 in. x 1 in. x 2 in. long block of wood between the torque strut and cradle to ease removal and installation of the torque engine mount.
    • 3 right side upper engine torque axis to front cover nuts and the 2 mount to midrail bracket nuts, allowing the powertrain to rest on the block of wood
    • Drive belt, tensioner and pulley
    • Power steering pump attaching bolts and set the pump to the side with the lines still attached
    • A/C compressor from the bracket and set aside with the lines attached
    • Camshaft cover
    • Using a strap wrench or a piece of wood wedged between the damper spoke and the lower side of the engine front cover, hold the damper and remove the bolt. With a suitable 3-jaw puller and the slots cast into the damper, pull the crankshaft damper/pulley assembly from the crankshaft.
    • Install the special oil seal replacement tool SA9104E, to be sure the front crankshaft timing sprocket is held firmly in place and prevent guide damage. Install with the flat side towards the crankshaft sprocket.
    • Remove or disconnect the following:
      • Front 4 oil pan bolts and cut the seal away from the front cover
      • Front cover bolts and carefully pry the cover away from the cylinder block at the pry location tabs, which are provided. Remove the cover from under the hood or through the wheel well
      • Front cover oil seal from the cover
      NOTE: During timing chain and sprocket removal, position the crankshaft 90 degrees past Top Dead Center (TDC), to be sure the pistons will not contact the valves upon assembly.
    • Carefully rotate the crankshaft clockwise so the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket and keyway align with the main bearing cap split line (90 degrees past TDC).
    • Remove or disconnect the following:
      • Timing guides and tensioner
      • Camshaft sprocket bolt, using a 7⁄8 in. (21mm) wrench to hold the camshaft. Then, remove the timing chain and camshaft sprocket
      • Crankshaft sprocket
      To install:
    • Inspect the chain for wear and damage. Check the inside diameter of the chain, it should be no more than 16.77 in. (426mm). Inspect the chain guides for wear or cracks and the timing sprockets for teeth or key wear. Replace components as necessary.
    • Verify that the crankshaft keyway is positioned 90 degrees clockwise past TDC (keyway at 3 o'clock). The keyway should align with the split between the bearing cap and engine block.
    • Bring the camshaft up to No. 1 TDC by loosely installing the sprocket and rotating the sprocket until the timing pin can be inserted. The camshaft contains wrench flats to assist in turning the shaft. The dowel pin should be at 12 o'clock when the camshaft is at TDC.
    • Install the crankshaft sprocket, then rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise 90 degrees up to No. 1 TDC (keyway at 12 o'clock).
    • Position the chain under the crankshaft sprocket and over the camshaft sprocket. The timing chain should be positioned so that 1 silver link plate aligns with the reference mark on the camshaft sprocket and the other aligns with the downward tooth (at the 6 o'clock position) on the crankshaft sprocket. The letters FRT on the camshaft sprocket must face forward, away from the cylinder head and excess chain slack should be located on the tensioner side of the block.
    • Install or connect the following:
      • Timing pin to verify proper alignment of the camshaft and sprocket. Torque the sprocket bolt to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
      NOTE: Do not allow the camshaft retaining bolt to torque against the timing pin or cylinder head damage will result.
      • Timing chain guides with the words FRONT facing out. Install the fixed guide first and verify the chain is snug against the guide, then install the pivot guide. Torque the bolts to 19 ft. lbs. (26 Nm) and verify that the pivot guide moves freely
      • Retract the tensioner plunger and pin the ratchet lever using a 1⁄8 in. No. 31 drill bit inserted in the alignment hole at the bottom front of the component
      • Tensioner. Torque the bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm), then remove the drill bit
    • Make one final check to verify all components are properly timed, then remove all timing pins.
    • Install or connect the following:
      • Seat a new front cover oil seal using the installation tool with a press
      • If the engine front cover casting or assembly is replaced, the 3 torque axis mount studs should also be replaced. Torque the new studs to 19 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
1.9L (DOHC) Engine
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
  2. drain the engine oil.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Negative battery cable
    • Right front wheel and splash shield
    NOTE: Place a 1 x 1 x 2 in. (25 x 25 x 51mm) block of wood between the torque strut and cradle to ease removal and installation of the torque engine mount.
    • 3 right side upper engine torque axis to front cover nuts and the 2 mount to midrail bracket nuts, allowing the powertrain to rest on the block of wood
    • Drive belt, tensioner and pulley
    • Power steering pump attaching bolts and set the pump to the side with the lines still attached
    • A/C compressor from the bracket and set it to the side with the lines attached
    • Camshaft cover
  4. Using a strap wrench or a piece of wood wedged between the damper spoke and the lower side of the engine front cover, hold the damper and remove the bolt. With a suitable 3-jaw puller and the slots cast into the damper, pull the crankshaft damper/pulley assembly from the crankshaft.
  5. Install the special oil seal replacement tool SA9104E or equivalent, to be sure the front crankshaft timing sprocket is held firmly in place and prevent guide damage. Install with the flat side towards the crankshaft sprocket.
  6. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Front 4 oil pan bolts and cut the seal away from the front cover
    • Front cover bolts and carefully pry the cover away from the cylinder block at the pry location tabs, which are provided. Remove the cover from under the hood or through the wheel well
    • Front cover oil seal from the cover
    NOTE: During timing chain and sprocket removal, position the crankshaft 90 degrees past top Dead Center (TDC), to be sure the pistons will not contact the valves upon assembly.
  7. Carefully rotate the crankshaft clockwise so the timing mark on the crankshaft sprocket and keyway align with the main bearing cap split line (90 degrees past TDC).
    • Timing guides and tensioner
    • Camshaft sprocket bolt, using a 7⁄8 in. (21mm) wrench to hold the camshaft. Then, remove the timing chain and camshaft sprocket
    • Crankshaft sprocket

Posted on Nov 30, 2009

  • 3911 Answers

SOURCE: Cost of fixing wheel bearing on driver side of

You are going to replace both sides, if one is shot the other is nearly shot.
If you are talking about the front it takes special tools and knowledge. You can buy the new parts at discount prices at ebay, autozone, advance, and pay a shop do it. Do not be surprised if they tell you the struts, drive shafts, and control arms need replaced also as they are most likely at the end of their service life too. Easier to do all of it at once while it is all taken apart. If you are planning on getting rid of it, get a serviceable used knuckle with wheel bearing and pay the shop to put that on. Rear bearing is much easier, comes as a unit you simply bolt on.

Posted on Mar 19, 2010

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Related Questions:

1 Answer

Change front wheel bearing


Your car has pressed in bearings not a hub assembly like most cars they are indeed pressed in and if done incorrectly they will fail fast thanx Chris

Apr 28, 2013 | 2001 Saturn SL

1 Answer

02 saturn sl-whine in left front @40-60 mph, turn steering wheel to left whine goes away, turn to right gets loader=any thoughts


i had the same problem a few years ago. cv bearing went bad but boot was good. excessive play. also check your brakes and wheel bearings

Sep 25, 2011 | 2002 Saturn S-Series

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Stiff turning the wheel, we have power steering. have had a flush done and a new pump put on also, but still hard to turn. any ideas?


i would think about some grease in the ball joints and tie rod ends, and about the upper strut bearing. at 10 years any and all of them could be worn, causing drag on the steering.

Sep 06, 2011 | 2001 Saturn SL

1 Answer

I have a fairly loud humming noise when i am driving my 2001 saturn sl1. This occurs when i am driving straight or turning to the left. If i turn to the right the humming noise goes away. (it sounds to...


I would start by checking your wheel bearings. Do this by pushing back and forth on the top of your tire or car near the tire. If the tire wobbles back and forth at all your hub assembly should be replaced. For this problem I would check for this first.

Nov 16, 2010 | 2001 Saturn SL

1 Answer

Tire noise constantly.have good tires. make a rumbling sound.


Wheel bearing or bearings. These are a unitized design and easy to put in compared to the older sl's. To check, do a light weave and the sound changes as you load the bearing from side to side. A road with a curve is best for checking, the man won't pull you over for looking intoxed.

Aug 24, 2010 | 2004 Saturn ION

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Replace front wheel bearing on 1998 saturn


The easiest way is to buy the knuckle and front hub together. It is more expensive but unless you have access to a press to press the knuckle from the hub and then press a new bearing in it will be impossible to replace.

Also like any wheel bearing job, change in pairs not just one. So change both front wheels because if one is going then the other is not far behind.

Jun 12, 2010 | 1998 Saturn SL

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How do I remove the wheel bearing on a 2000 Saturn SL1? I have removed everything except pulling the housing which holds the bearing.


I believe on these cars you have to replace the entire hub, not just the bearing. I had a problem with mine and I went to a junk yard and bought a used wheel with the hub still attached, fixed it right up.

Apr 11, 2010 | 2000 Saturn SL

1 Answer

1996 saturn sl front wheel bearing assembly


you got to press it in and out,and if u dont do it right with the proper tools you will wreck the hub

Apr 05, 2009 | 1986 Ford Escort 4-Door

1 Answer

How do I change Wheel Bearing


First I need to know if it is a front or rear bearing. If its a front, you could do the majority of the labor yourself and save some $$. You need to remove the steering knuckle that has the failed bearing. Once this is out, find a shop that will press the bearing and hub out and press the new bearing in. This is not something you can do yourself, unless you own and know how to operate a hydraulic press. Once the bearing has been changed out simply reinstall the steering knuckle, and take your car to get an alignment. If you have a rear bearing they are very easy. Remove the wheel and brake drum, then remove the 4 10mm bolts behind the knuckle to unbolt the bearing. Reinstalling is just the reverse of that.

Dec 13, 2008 | 1996 Saturn SL

3 Answers

Changed brake pads and rotors on the front still have a roaring noise coming from drivers side front tire


if its like a humming noise its the wheel bearing if you ga straith and move the stering to one side noise there move to the other side noise is less wheel bearing gone lift the car in the front ans spin the wheel manualy listen to see whisht bearing make the noise change that bearing hope its a fix for you and rate a fixya for me if any other question feel free im here thank you pierre

Aug 06, 2008 | 1994 Saturn Sl

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