Question about Toyota Highlander
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Easy job ! just rem to get a gear puller for the antilock gear and install same as came off old one Parts around 100$ each apx 1/2 hr each side
Posted on Oct 15, 2008
It is pretty easy, there is not much labor involved if it has anti-lock brakes in the rear you will also have to un-plug the wire harness attached to hubs.
Posted on Nov 26, 2008
SOURCE: Rear wheel bearing diagram
The bearing is pressed in so you will have to carry the hub to a machine shop to have the old bearing pressed out and the new bearing pressed in once you have the hub off the car.
Process to remove hub is as follows (from the 1990 Miata Service manual)
Remove rear wheel, rear wheel brake caliper assembly (suspend with a rope), and disc plate.
Check for rear hub play with a dial indicator, if excessive play either tighten the locknut or remove hub and replace bearing.
To remove bearing bend up the locknut stake and remove axle nut - torque is between 159 - 217 ft pounds.
Now remove the hub, retaining ring, rear wheel knuckle, wheel bearing (if loose), dust cover.
Replace with new parts, locknut, dust cover, knuckle bushings and hub bolts (if worn).
Take knuckle with wheel bearing to machine shop and have old bearing pressed out and new bearing pressed in.
Assembly is reverse of the above.
I have personally found that by the time I pay a machine shop to do the removal and reinstall of the bearing and take my time into account it is less expensive to pay a good shop to do this work for me.
DIY information at Miata.net
Posted on May 10, 2009
The rear wheel bearing on a toyota camry is replaced by replacing the wheel bearing and hub as a unit. this is a design change as compare to older models with two piece wheel bearings. Scotch drive wheels. Remove rear wheel. Remove rear brake drum. (note: if emergency brakes are applied you will not be able to remove brake drum) Remove dust cap and hub retaining nut. Hub should slide off as unit. Replace hub with new unit. Installation is reverse of removal.
Posted on May 30, 2009
SOURCE: how to remove rear bearing hub
The bearing is already shot so disregard what you hear about loosening the hub nut before you jack the car up. If you are doing this in your backyard it is VERY important to jack and support the car properly....you won't be able to use the parking brake because you'll be taking the disc/hat off. So work smart and safe.----Remove hub cap. :---Spray PB Blaster or another good rust killer in the hub, and all the nuts you will be removing. That means the pinch bolts for the toe link and the upper ball joint, plus the nut. Also the nut on the bolt of the lower arm. --Break the lug nuts AND 36mm hub nut a 1/4 turn.--Jack up the car and support. Remove lug nuts, then tire.----Remove brake caliper and support it to prevent damage to hose....I hung mine from the coil spring...The metal brake line fit in between the coils very nicely.----Remove disc/hat.----Remove the 36mm hub nut (you need buy a new one...really) -----Use a hub puller to press the axle shaft in through the hub, just a little bit...to break the rust. JUST A LITTLE! YOU ARE JUST BREAKING THE RUST SO IT WILL COME APART EASIER LATER. Spray it again and move on. Remove puller for now. -----Remove the springs, and retainers from the parking brake and remove the parking brake shoes.----Remove the parking brake levers coming through the rubber bushing .----Remove the Nut and Pinch Bolt from the Upper Ball Joint (at 12 o'clock) MAKE SURE YOU PUT THIS SAME BOLT BACK IN WITH A NEW NUT. THIS BOLT IS A LITTLE LONGER THAN THE TOE LINK BOLT!----Note: The pinch arms are just a term for the design....the bolt goes through a split....when the bolt is tightened, it clamps on the part that is meant to be held. Separate carefully....don't damage boot. I actually drove a stubby screw driver through the pinch arms of the knuckle to free it.
Remove the Nut and Pinch Bolt from the Toe Link (at 7 o'clock)
Separate carefully....don't damage boot. I actually drove a stubby screw driver through the pinch arms of the knuckle to free it.
Support lower arm (I used a cinder block)
Remove nut and bolt through lower arm (at 6 o'clock)
The only thing holding you back now should be getting the hub / knuckle assembly off the axle shaft.
Attach your puller again to the hub and as you tighten it the hub / knuckle assembly should start coming off the axle shaft pretty easily....if it doesn't, spray it.
The hub must be pressed out of the bearing
The bearing must be pressed out of the knuckle.
The new bearing must be pressed into the knuckle.
The NEW hub must be pressed into the bearing.
I don't have a press and had a local machine shop do this part for $50.00
I didn't have all tools and had to buy a few.
24" breaker bar $20
36mm hub socket $17
Universal Hub Puller $ 21....AutoZone will buy back but I will keep
The other tools are just a couple of sockets and wrenches....I think 18mm.
A ball joint splitter....PB Blaster (I swear by this stuff)
You SHOULD replace the HUB and bearing. I got the hub and bearing at AutoZone for $121.....tools cost $58...Machine Shop was $50.
Total cost was about $230.....dealer wanted $750.
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya
Posted on Mar 18, 2010
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