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2005 ford escape has no heat from heater. changed thermostat, and water pump. temp gauge reads beyween cold and hot but coolant does not seem to move to or thru heater core

Posted by Anonymous on

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

motor1258
  • 6674 Answers

SOURCE: No heat. Temp gauge barely moves, but hoses to/from core are hot

Did you run engine from cold, with heater (not defrost) on , rad cap off & wait for rad fan to come on 2 or 3 times before you put rad cap back on? Rev engine slightly and hold it there for 30sec. to 1 min. every once in a while while doing this to aid in increasing flow & remove air locks. If both hoses in & out are hot to touch, then you should be getting heat, and I would start looking at blend/air door etc on heater to make sure it's going to it's proper position.

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

JMMARRERO59
  • 77 Answers

SOURCE: 1998 Dodge Durango no heat when using heater.

BLEND DOOR STUCK OR BROKEN. NEEDS TO REMOVE DASH AND HEATER/EVAP CORE BOS TO REPAIR REPLACE.

Posted on Jan 08, 2009

motor1258
  • 6674 Answers

SOURCE: My 2001 ford Taurus heating temp gauge is not

Start the engine when cool, remove rad cap and start engine and let it run with the heater on. (not defrost) Top up coolant as needed in rad, and let it run until either the rad fan comes on and off 2 or 3 times, or you can see increased flow in rad from thermostat opening. It will obviously happen after it reaches operating temperature, so watch after gauge gets close to there. Wait until you see that flow 2 or 3 times or fan comes on and off before you put cap on, and fill return bottle to proper level as well. That should cure it, by getting air out of system, and coolant flowing through heater core.

Posted on Dec 24, 2009

jturcotte
  • 7768 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 2001 Ford Taurus with heater issues.

No, there is no valve in your car. The likely problem is a clogged core. Would you like instructions for replacing it?

Posted on Dec 28, 2010

  • 63 Answers

SOURCE: The temp guage pegs out

Having a blocked heater core will not make the engine over heat. You will just not get any of the heat from the fluid that would normally be pushed through the heater core because your core or cores are blocked (I think you have two cores if you have a rear heater.). The engine does not need your interior heater cores to keep cool. When you select "heat" on your console, either a valve opens up and allows fluid to move through the lines to your heater cores and or an air duct opens to the cores to blow air across them...


Did your heater work before your work?

Does the gauge stay pegged or does it fluctuate?


If your gauge now fluctuates after your work, it would indicate to me that there is air trapped in the engine or bubbles passing by. The air does not cool the engine block as well so the temp will rise quickly. It will then cool a bit as the coolant splashes by. If your gauge is staying hot and never moves, it could mean: you are missing a lot of coolant, trapped air near the temp sender, or your thermostat is not opening. A closed thermostat would make the gauge go all the way hot and stay hot. The thermostat can be checked with a pan of boiling water on the stove. When boiling, put the thermostat in the water and check to see if it opens. It is also important that the thermostat is installed in the correct direction. The temp sensor much be on the engine side. I am also assuming your pump shaft is not sheared and is still connected to the impeller and it is spinning as well. You can take your belt off and move it by hand to see if you feel any resistance. If you are sure the thermostat is opening and the pump circulating, I would then check and see if you have air in trapped in your system. I looked at my Uplander and noted a lot of hoses and metal pipes at a higher level than the filler neck of the radiator. Perhaps, when you filled your system back up from the radiator, that a lot of air got trapped in the upper part of the engine and the heater lines. I also saw that there were little brass valves near were the hoses connect near the pump and on the driver side. I would suggest running the engine and open and close the little brass check valve on the divers side to see if you have fluid or just air coming out. I wouldn

Posted on Jan 09, 2011

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Radiator fans not coming on. replaced thermostat and cooling sensor


Hi Bill, is the engine actually getting hot enough for the fans to come on? if the engine does have overheating problem (but you say the temp gauge reads normal) then i would check the operation of the engine temp switch, there are two, one for the gauge and one for the fans.

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One way to tell a bad thermostat in a car is if the car overheats frequently even if there is water in the radiator.Stuck open - no heat from heater, temp gauge hardly moves off of cold.
Stuck closed - overheats engine, temp gauge quickly climbs to hot.listen for any rubbing, grinding, or whining noises from the pump. look under water pump while running, if pump is going bad. water will come out of weep hole on the bottom of the pump. good-day!

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While it doesn't seem likely, if you've changed, or had the thermostat changed.... I'd say you got a faulty thermostat. I am curious as to what your temperature gauge says the temperature of the engine and coolant is.. If your gauge is showing hot, I can think of two more possibilities... the water pump isn't pumping right... and, if the water pump isn't working right, the problem can be a cracked head or block, which can cause an airlock in the coolant system. Check the coolant or radiator cap.

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I have a 2003 alero with the v-6 what happened was driving down the road the heater works fine. then all of a sudden it was blowing cold air and the temp gauge started climbing. it started blowing how air...


Sounds like the water pump is cavitating . Replace water pump. Check coolant level also. Open the bleeder valve usually located on thermostat housing to remove air from system. close valve when coolant is present while filling. close radiator cap and top off recovery bottle to correct level. These engines are prone to overheating, do not let temp gauge get in the red.

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The high temp gauge will max out and then back to normal. Also the heat will not work then kick in all of a sudden.


Let me guess...When the temp gauge goes hot, the heater goes cold, and vice versa? Check your coolant level first in the radiator (when the engine is COLD) and also in the overflow reservoir. ONLY use a 50/50 mix of coolant and water, using the same COLOR coolant that is already in the radiator (if it's green, buy green, if it's orange/red, buy orange/red). Next thing to have checked/replaced is the thermostat which is inside the cooling system of the engine. Finally, and the most expensive, have the water pump checked/replaced.

I would put my money on low coolant level in the radiator. As the engine heats up, the coolant will "surge" through the system as the water pump tries to **** air through the system due to low coolant level. If the coolant isn't flowing, the heat can't escape the engine block and it starts to overheat.

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The temp guage pegs out on my 2005 uplander. I have changed the thermostat and flushed the radiator. The water pump seems fine and both radiator hoses get hot after it runs for a while. The fans kick on...


Having a blocked heater core will not make the engine over heat. You will just not get any of the heat from the fluid that would normally be pushed through the heater core because your core or cores are blocked (I think you have two cores if you have a rear heater.). The engine does not need your interior heater cores to keep cool. When you select "heat" on your console, either a valve opens up and allows fluid to move through the lines to your heater cores and or an air duct opens to the cores to blow air across them...


Did your heater work before your work?

Does the gauge stay pegged or does it fluctuate?


If your gauge now fluctuates after your work, it would indicate to me that there is air trapped in the engine or bubbles passing by. The air does not cool the engine block as well so the temp will rise quickly. It will then cool a bit as the coolant splashes by. If your gauge is staying hot and never moves, it could mean: you are missing a lot of coolant, trapped air near the temp sender, or your thermostat is not opening. A closed thermostat would make the gauge go all the way hot and stay hot. The thermostat can be checked with a pan of boiling water on the stove. When boiling, put the thermostat in the water and check to see if it opens. It is also important that the thermostat is installed in the correct direction. The temp sensor much be on the engine side. I am also assuming your pump shaft is not sheared and is still connected to the impeller and it is spinning as well. You can take your belt off and move it by hand to see if you feel any resistance. If you are sure the thermostat is opening and the pump circulating, I would then check and see if you have air in trapped in your system. I looked at my Uplander and noted a lot of hoses and metal pipes at a higher level than the filler neck of the radiator. Perhaps, when you filled your system back up from the radiator, that a lot of air got trapped in the upper part of the engine and the heater lines. I also saw that there were little brass valves near were the hoses connect near the pump and on the driver side. I would suggest running the engine and open and close the little brass check valve on the divers side to see if you have fluid or just air coming out. I wouldn

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Does your temp gauge read normal? if it does then the thremostat is ok,but sadly the water pump is going bad this is typical of jeeps at an idle the heater cools off because the water pump fins are worn enough to not circulate through the heater core and when you step on the gas the increased rpm move the water fast enough to circulate through the heater,it is possible that the heater core is plugged but I doubt it as a plugged heater core would not get hot either it would be cold or just luke warm all the time.

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