Question about Mazda MAZDA3
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
CV Joint Axle Replacement - How to Repair or Replace
Over time the rubber boots of the CV joints can become cracked, torn, or otherwise compromised. Once moisture and dirt get into a CV joint and grease makes its way out, the CV joints days are numbered. Signs of impending failures are a click-click-clicking or metallic crackling noise while turning and accelerating or a clunking upon deceleration. While one can repack, reboot, and rebuild CV axles, it makes more sense for the average do-it-yourselfer to procure replacement units and swap out the old axles. If a boot is torn or missing, it is possible to save the joint if caught early enough, but usually the damage has already been done. Replacing or servicing the entire CV joint axle assembly may be the smarter move since replacing a boot may involve removing an axle, which may also involve removing half or all of the vehicle's brakes and suspension.
Posted on Jan 19, 2009
Worn side bearings is where the noise is coming from and might as well do both sides, I used replace them in about 2-4 hours, depending on where Murphy happened to be. Disconnect both side inner CV joint, front prop shaft and the 4X4 actuator line. If you want to drop the front pumpken. Not sure if you have enough room if you want to change the bearing without removing the pumpken from the frame. You should see when you disconnect the CV shaft.
The front diffs are toys compared to the rear, if you use auto4wd too much there are bearings in your tranfer case that are similar to the side bearings in the front diff. In both appearance and durability and soon you'll replace those too.
Good luck and keep me posted.
Posted on May 26, 2009
Cv joints will usually pop when they are worn out. I would suspect that its the powersteering, check the pumps fluid level and the tension on the belt.
good luck dont forget to rate
Posted on Jan 07, 2010
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There are several components that could cause noise from the front when turning. The components to be concerned about are, Wheel bearings, Ball Joints, Tie rod Ends, CV joints and brake rotors.
Jack the car up under the control arm until the wheel is off the ground about 3 inches. Slide a pry bar under the tire and place the other hand on the top of the tire. As you lift and lower the pry bar fell for loose movement in the tire. If there is such movement you have a bad wheel bearing.
On your vehicle this is a sealed Hub.
Repeat the test above and watch the upper and lower ball joints for movement. Is there is movement replace the bad ball joint.
Tie Rod ends:
You have changed the inner and outer tie rod ends so you are probably covered there.
The Joint is housed in a rubber boot. If you can feel the joint inside the boot you can turn the tire forward and back and feel for play in the joint. If you are not able to feel the play you can loosen the clamp on the boot and push the boot out of the way. Then repeat the test.
You have already changed the rotors so this is not likely the issue.
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