Question about Ford Explorer
Loud whirring/grinding noise when I engage 4x4 drive on 1997 ford explorer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 92 Explorer 4x4 won't engage
It could be the shift motor assembly needs a little TLC. Check this site out. http://draco.acs.uci.edu/explorer/
But first try the rest button located in the drivers rear qtr panel. Remove the jack access panel and you'll see it up front. It's black with a white button on the bottom. With car running, press reset.
When you rebuild the motor, don't cut the brown wire. Disassamble the connector and the pin slides out the back.
Posted on Jan 19, 2009
I agree w/ Dave, if u have a part time system, u should not use 4wd on dry pavement, if it's full time 4wd, there are 3 couplings that shift torque to different axles to to allow wheels to spin at different revolutions, and u should not experience the 'driveline wind-up' ,or torque bind. If u do, the system needs to be inspected for problems.
Posted on Mar 23, 2009
I had the same problem. It would squeak kinda bad when I pull in my driveway. My cv boots were good. I found the ball joints were getting wore out, as well as the shocks were over 10 yrs old. I replaced the ball joints and shocks. I know my squeaks stopped, I personally believe it was the shocks that fixed my squeaking.
Posted on May 20, 2009
Being that its a Ford you may need to check or change the switch or there is a problem (be it electrical or mechanical) with the transfer case. Hope this was helpful
Good Luck =)
Posted on Jun 05, 2009
Lift and support the front of the truck so the front wheels are off the ground.
Key on, engage 4x4 and try to turn the front drive shaft.
If it turns it is a problem with the transfer case.
If it doesn't it is a front axle engagement problem.
There are the two lines that operate the diaphragm on the axle. Facing the truck, the right solenoid (pink & black lines) is activated to disconnect the axle and go back into 2WD. The left solenoid (blue & white lines) lock the axle into 4WD
you'll have to get a vacuum source like a Mighty-Vac hand pump and apply vacuum to the pink and blue lines, one at a time. If one leaks down you'll have to check the line, including the diaphragm, to locate the leak. If vacuum was held, reconnect the bottom half of the line "connector" (black & white lines) to the solenoids and crank the truck. Switching from 2WD to 4WD and back verify each time that there is vacuum on the top nipple of the activated solenoid. If you're in 2WD the right solenoid (pink/black) should be sucking, in 4WD the left (blue/white) should be. If these operate as described then you axle shift fork may be bad. If you're not getting vacuum when you should be, replace the solenoid.
The Vacuum shift motor ( item #10 in the diagram )
Close up :
Vacuum shift solenoids
The other source of the vacuum leak ( if the lines to the solenoid test good ) is the vacuum box behind the battery.
Posted on Oct 23, 2010
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