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2001 mercury villager backfire,and jerk during acceleration

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  • 61 Answers

Maybe new set of plugs will help if not check ingnition coil

Posted on Oct 18, 2013

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Timing Belt

I have used the Haynes Repair Manual for the Mercury Villager to change the timing belt on my 1993 Villager, twice. I just finished last night with the latest change. I found the Haynes manual to be very useful. This is just an overview:
1. Jack up the the van and support it on jack stands. Remove the front passenger side wheel and 2 plastic splash sheilds.
2. Remove the two radiator hoses on the passenger side of the engine.
3. Remove the pulley from the water pump (4x 10mm bolts)
4. Remove the tensioner pulley, including the bracket, for the A/C compressor. (3x 12 mm bolts)
This one can be difficult because it requires a torx head to loosen the pulley and it's a very tight fit to get a torx in there. I ended up taking the torx head out of the socket then turning it with a 10mm wrench.
5. Remove all 3 drive belts.
6. Remove the crankshaft pulley. (1-1/16" bolt) You will need a good strap wrench to keep the pulley from turning or an impact to remove this bolt. You may be able to remove the pulley just by bumping it with a mallet, but you may need a gear puller.
7. Remove the timing belt cover, it has an upper and lower half and is held in place by several 8mm screws.
8. You will find that the timing belt pulleys on the both cam shafts and the crank shaft have a white paint mark on one tooth. Make sure the marks on the two cam shaft pulleys are in line with a "bump" mark on the back plate of the belt cover. The bump mark for the front cam is located at about the 2 o'clock position and the one for the rear cam is at about the 10 o'clock position. You will need a mirror and flashlight to see this one.
The crankshaft pulley mark lines up with a notch in the oil pan (I think it's the oil pan where the notch is, but you will see it at near the 6 o'clock postion.
9. My new timing belt was a DAYCO and it came with a good instruction sheet. The new belt has an arrow that should point AWAY from the engine. There are also 3 lines on the new belt that will line up with the lines on the timing belt pulleys.
10. The belt tension should be adjusted so that you get about 0.5" - 0.6" of deflection at the center between the two cam shafts.
Note: I recommend replacing both the tensioning pulley and water pump while you are in there.
A water pump is about $32 and the tensioning pulley is about $35 but it's money well spent.
I did NOT replace the tensioner pulley the last time I changed the timing belt, and that is what failed this time. I could have saved myself a lot of work if I had replaced the pulley the first time.

Hope this helps. I'd still buy the HAYNES manual.

Posted on Dec 16, 2008

  • 109 Answers

SOURCE: Missing and backfiring during acceleration and climbing hills.

Could be vapor lock in the fuel system. Next time it does this, stop and try removing the fuel filler cap... Hope this helps...;-)

Posted on Apr 14, 2009

mx5turbo92
  • 545 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 Mazda Tribute jerks and misses

Replace the spark plugs and ignition wires,timing & vacuum leak

Posted on Jun 03, 2009

emissionwiz
  • 74914 Answers

SOURCE: 1996 Mercury villager 96,000 miles- dies out

Here is the common cause of surges, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

Posted on Jun 22, 2009

  • 5467 Answers

SOURCE: Jerking on normal acceleration.

You might try a TPS switch. It should set a code but yours did't. The throttle position sensor sets the spark advance and fuel flow to match. The other possibility is the EGR system which also should set a code.
If you have not changed the fuel filter,try that because if you accellerate hard the fuel slooshes to the back of the tank.
In normal driving the contaminents lay on the bottom of the tank.

Posted on Aug 18, 2009

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1 Answer

The car is jerking


there could be a plug in your gaskets, or a coil could be bad, if the coil were to be bad it would be hard to start and when you accelerate the car might backfire and die down.

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YOU HAVE TO GO TO THE MERCURY DEALERSHIP.SINCE YOUR VECHICLE HAS THEFT SECURITY SYSTEM. THEY HAVE TO SPECIAL MAKE KEYS BEFORE KEY SWITCH AND IGNITION IMMOBILIZER MODULE WILL WORK ALLOWING VECHICLE TO CRANK.

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95 jeep wrangler splutters, jerks, backfires during acceleration


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94 villager runs great while engine is cold, when it warms up backfires, won't accelerate and runs poorly


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Jerking & powerloss during acceleration


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1 Answer

Jerking on normal acceleration.


You might try a TPS switch. It should set a code but yours did't. The throttle position sensor sets the spark advance and fuel flow to match. The other possibility is the EGR system which also should set a code.
If you have not changed the fuel filter,try that because if you accellerate hard the fuel slooshes to the back of the tank.
In normal driving the contaminents lay on the bottom of the tank.

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1 Answer

Car stumbles, backfires until warm


You need to replace your distributor. There has been many problems with these. I had the same problem with my 1993 villager and had tried many different things and none worked. I went to a junk yard and got a used distributor and now it runs fine. I would try this before anything alse.

May 30, 2009 | 1993 Mercury Villager

1 Answer

The car won't accelerate and the engine backfires.


If you haven't changed spark plug wires, do so. If you have, then check your timing / timing chain and check for vacuum leaks, or your egr. Good luck! let me know how it goes.

May 21, 2009 | 1997 Mercury Villager

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