Question about Dodge Charger

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2006 charger, base model, 3.5L. 66,000 miles. Ticking sound from engine. May be rocker arm shaft? If that is the problem, a pushrod, how difficult is it to fix? Any ideas

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  • Dodge Expert
  • 652 Answers

Rocker asssembly its not bad if you are a level 3 tech

Posted on Nov 21, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

mrgreenz
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SOURCE: '89 2.9l, 194,000 mile Ranger

Stuck Valve.Or just about ready to stick.

Posted on Nov 02, 2008

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 2000 Dodge

are the pushrods hollow or solid

Posted on Apr 01, 2009

countrysi248
  • 443 Answers

SOURCE: knocking or ticking in the

you are right its either a rocker arm broken or loose or it also could be a broken valve spring so look for all three While you have the valve cover off to save you coming back and looking again ... thanks Jerry

Posted on Apr 24, 2009

  • 106 Answers

SOURCE: bent pushrod

If it is a push rod or a loose rocker arm it wouldnt be rattling it would be ticking or knoking.

Posted on Nov 17, 2009

  • 67 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 saturn sc2 rocker arm suspected

Rocker arm shaft to head torque is 19Ft-lbs

Posted on Feb 12, 2010

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Ticking noise while in drive getting worse, been told that noise coming from bell housing?


Valve Adjustment

Print
The 4.2L and 5.3L engines do not require a periodic valve lash adjustment.
The 4.3L engines are equipped with screw-in rocker arm studs with positive stop shoulders. Because the shoulders that allow the rocker arms to be tightened into proper position, no adjustments are necessary or possible. If a valvetrain problem is suspected, check that the rocker arm nuts are tightened to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm). When valve lash falls out of specification (valve tap is heard), replace the rocker arm, pushrod and hydraulic lifter on the offending cylinder.

Oct 23, 2014 | 2003 Chevrolet TrailBlazer

1 Answer

Ticking engine


most common ticking noise under the hood is from the valve train [burnt,bent,sludged pushrods]--burnt,bent,damaged valves---[loose,damaged rocker arms]--burnt,flat spot,sludged camshaft----sludge build up in engine-low oil pressure ---need oil change-other can be bad idler pulley,alternator bearing going bad

Jun 25, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Ticking sounds engine


Without hearing the noise I can only guess. Probably a hydraulic lifter. Many 50s, 60s and 70s engines had this problem. Varnish builds up in the lifter body. If it's just a SLIGHT tick, I wouldn't worry about it. You could try a different brand of oil and some engine cleaner.

As an aside, I personally own a 91 GMC pick-up with a 4.3. It had a clicking lifter on start up and 10 min after. I always used Castrol oil, supposedly one of the best. Switched to Penzoil, it was on sale. No more click!

If you want to try and un-stick it, try this. Be forewarned, it WILL make a mess! Try and locate which side of the engine the noise is coming from. Remove the valve cover. Inspect for bent pushrods and rocker arm stud pulling out of the head. If you find either of these problems, disassemble the whole valve train and inspect/replace worn parts. Back then, Pontiacs and SBCs were notorious for studs pulling out of the head if you ran them hard.

Start engine. Oil will spray/mist everywhere. You were warned. LOL
Watch the rocker arms as it idles. If one does not move as far as the others, and the click is more of a bang, you have a collapsed lifter. A worn cam lobe will be much more quiet than a collapsed lifter, but you will see decreased movement of the rocker arm. Replacement is the only option on both.

Take a RUBBER (not metal ) or plastic dead-blow hammer and rap the rocker arm(s) several times where the pushrod mates with it. Over the years I have used this method with approx 60% success.

May 04, 2013 | 1967 Pontiac GTO

2 Answers

How to install rocker arms on a Pontiac grand am 2001 V-6


Hi there:

Rocker Arms & Pushrods


Removal & Installation

3.1L & 3.4L Engines
Left Side

  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.
  2. Drain the cooling system to a level below the coolant pipe on the front of the engine.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    NOTEKeep the pushrods in order. Intake pushrods are 5 3 / 4 inches long and exhaust pushrods are 6 inches long.


    Negative battery cableSpark plug wiresHeater bypass pipePositive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve and hoseRocker arm cover


    Rocker arms and pushrods

To install:

  1. Lubricate all the valvetrain components with engine oil.
  2. Install or connect the following:

    Pushrods and the rocker arms. Torque the bolts to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).Rocker arm cover using a new gasket. Torque the rocker cover bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).PCV valve and hoseHeater bypass pipe. Torque the screw at the water pump to 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm), the bolt at the cylinder head corner to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm) and the nut to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).Spark plug wiresNegative battery cable
  3. Refill the cooling system.
  4. Start the vehicle and verify no leaks.




3_4_2013_5_26_48_pm.gif


Right Side
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:
    NOTEKeep the pushrods in order. Intake pushrods are 5 3 / 4 inches long and exhaust pushrods are 6 inches long.


    Negative battery cableAlternator bracket on 2005 modelsSpark plug wires from the spark plugs and the upper intake plenum wire retainerPower brake booster vacuum pipe from the intake plenumAccessory drive beltAlternator, if necessaryIgnition coil assembly and Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) canister purge solenoid as an assemblyRocker arm cover


    Rocker arms and pushrods

To install:

  1. Lubricate all the valvetrain components with engine oil.
  2. Install or connect the following:

    Pushrods and the rocker arms. Torque the bolts to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) plus an additional 30 degree turn.Rocker arm cover using a new gasket. Torque the rocker cover bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).Ignition coil and EVAP solenoid assemblyAlternator, if removed. Torque the bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).Accessory drive beltPower brake booster vacuum pipe to the plenumSpark plug wiresNegative battery cable
  3. Start the vehicle and verify no leaks.





Hope this helps.

Mar 04, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Think i have a bad lifter in my 2000 buick lasabre,it was riding fine then all of a sudden its making a ticking sound on top! how difficult is it to replace the lifters?


Quite a bit of work--this is a pushrod engine. You need to remove the fuel rail and both upper and lower intake manifolds. Then both valve covers. Loosen the rockers until you can slip them off the pushrods. Pull the pushrod off the lifter to replace it. You may have to rotate the crankshaft a bit to get all the lifters up to where you can pull each one out. I can send more detailed instructions including torque values if you decide to do it.

jturcotte_1833.gif

Jun 12, 2011 | 2000 Buick LeSabre

1 Answer

Was told my lifters are worn eng. has a ticking noise more when cold. do i need to pull the head off to replace them?


No, you pull off the valve covers and intake manifold, loosen the rocker arms, turn them off the pushrods, and lift the pushrods off the lifters. Replace the lifters one at a time so you don't mix up the pushrods. If you have to take a rocker off, remember which valve to put it back on. You may have to turn the engine a bit to lift up the lifters enough to grab. For more exact procedure, including torque values, please send your engine size.

Apr 14, 2011 | 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

2006 dodge gharger rocker arm claims to be gone. Car is ticking


Needs rocker shaft upgrade kit. Parts are around 95.00

Feb 12, 2010 | 2006 Dodge Charger

2 Answers

There is a ticking sound coming from teh drivers side of the motor top end when i start it up when i drive it goes away but its there when i start it or ideling


In order to give you a solution to your problem, I need to explain a little bit about the valve train in your engine, the engine itself, and how it works.

1.You have an Internal Combustion engine. It is a Four Stroke engine. The engine has a Cylinder Block with cylinders inside. There is a piston for each cylinder which goes up, and down. The piston/s are connected to a crankshaft. The crankshaft turns the transmission, which in turn turns the driveshaft, to the rear differential. The rear differential has axles, which the rear wheels are bolted to. The four strokes are , Intake Stroke, Compression Stroke, Combustion Stroke, and Exhaust Stroke.

The piston goes down the cylinder drawing the fuel/air mixture in. (Intake Stroke) The Intake valve opens. The piston comes back up the cylinder, and Compresses the fuel/air mixture. (Compression Stroke) Both the Intake and Exhaust valve are closed. The spark plug fires igniting the fuel/air mixture, and shoves the piston down. (Combustion Stroke) Finally the Exhaust valve opens, and expels the burnt gases. (Exhaust Stroke)
This page on Wikipedia.org, may help explain the process. The third 'photo' down on the right is an animation showing the process.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Internal_combustion_engine
The animation shows an engine with an Overhead Camshaft. Your camshaft is located in the Cylinder Block, and not in the Cylinder Head, as shown.

2.Your Camshaft is a shaft with egg shaped lobes on it. As the tip of the egg shape comes to the top, it pushes up on a Hydraulic Lifter. This lifter in turn pushes up on a Pushrod, which pushes up on a Rocker Arm. The Rocker Arm in turn pushes down on either the Intake Valve, or the Exhaust Valve, opening them.

A Rocker Arm is shaped a lot like a See-saw. Just like the one's at a child's playground. As one side goes up, the other side comes down. The Pushrod pushes up on one side of the Rocker Arm, and the other side of the Rocker Arm pushes down on the valve, opening it.

A Hydraulic Lifter is a small cylinder that has a piston in it. Oil goes through a tiny hole in the side of the lifter, and this keeps the piston in a certain position. (That's why this lifter is named 'Hydraulic', because it uses oil inside) The Pushrod rests on this piston. The hydraulic action of the Hydraulic Lifter, keeps slack out of the valve train. The pushrod to rocker arm distance, and the rocker arm to valve distance.

What you are hearing, is a clicking sound from clearance being created, in-between the pushrod to rocker arm, and/or rocker arm to valve stem. A metal to metal clicking sound.

Solution? Depends on how mechanically inclined you are, or you may want to refer this job to an auto repair shop. The valve cover needs to be removed, and the nut on each rocker arm needs to be adjusted. Adjusting the nut down, (Clockwise), pushes the rocker arm down on the rocker arm stud, a little. This removes the slack, and makes things nice, and quiet again. Your engine will also run better, and you'll get better gas mileage.

DON'T do this, or have it down, and eventually the slack that is in there will increase. This will break parts! There IS a technique in doing this. If you know of someone who is good at adjusting valves, they can do it. They MUST be good however. If you adjust the Rocker Arm Nut too far down, you will lose power, and the exhaust valve face will burn. Not far enough down, and you get the clicking sound you hear now. About 1/4 turn down, to 1/2 turn down, should do it.

Jul 26, 2009 | 1998 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup

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