Question about 2003 Toyota Corolla

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Timing belt I have a knock in the motor which is more noticeable in drive. every mechanic has said it's in the upper part of the motor, not the piston or bearings. this does not sound like a rocker arm ticking. what could it be?

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  • Expert
  • 74 Answers

Cam bearing?

Posted on Oct 17, 2013

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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juggernautxt
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SOURCE: Loud tick & knocking for a 1zzfe engine from 2001 toyota corolla

from what you are describing it sounds like a lifter/valve issue, i am a ford man i don't know if toyota do the same thing, but if they use inserts for the valve seats it is possible a valve seat has been dropping just has not dropped fully out to cause engine damage. buying a new engine will actually cost you less than an overhaul/rebuild anymore. the parts will cost you almost as much as a new motor will with all the machining that maybe needed.

Posted on May 13, 2009

GARYca
  • 672 Answers

SOURCE: engine sound very noisy,knocking at the rocker cover

this vehicles engine does not have rocker arms, cams sits atop the valves which have lifter shims. If you had a bent valve, car will run rough or encounter misfires. If the knocking is coming from the head, Possible valve lifter shims worn, or severe camshaft lobe wear. I would recommend bringing the car to a repair shop to have it checked. Hopefully this helps!!

Posted on Aug 14, 2009

greezy_je208
  • 237 Answers

SOURCE: Lifter knock

you can tighten them down you will need a torque wrench and will also need to know the torque specs.

Posted on Dec 16, 2009

  • 30 Answers

SOURCE: Rod bearing knocking

These procedures may be performed with the engine in the car. If additional overhaul work is to be performed, it will be easier if the engine is removed and mounted on an engine stand. Most stands allow the block to be rotated, giving easy access to both the top and bottom. These procedures require certain hand tools which may not be in your tool box. A cylinder ridge reamer, a numbered punch set, piston ring expander, snapring tools and piston installation tool (ring compressor) are all necessary for correct piston and rod repair. These tools are commonly available from retail tool suppliers; you may be able to rent them from larger automotive supply houses.

  • Remove the cylinder head.Elevate and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
  • Drain the engine oil.
    Remove any splash shield or rock guards which are in the way and remove the oil pan.
    Using a numbered punch set, mark the cylinder number on each piston rod and bearing cap. Do this BEFORE loosening any bolts.
    Loosen and remove the rod cap nuts and the rod caps. It will probably be necessary to tap the caps loose; do so with a small plastic mallet or other soft-faced tool. Keep the bearing insert with the cap when it is removed.
    Use short pieces of hose to cover the bolt threads; this protects the bolt, the crankshaft and the cylinder walls during removal.
    One piston will be at the lowest point in its cylinder. Cover the top of this piston with a rag. Examine the top area of the cylinder with your fingers, looking for a noticeable ridge around the cylinder. If any ridge is felt, it must be carefully removed by using the ridge reamer. Work with extreme care to avoid cutting too deeply.When the ridge is removed, carefully remove the rag and ALL the shavings from the cylinder. No metal cuttings may remain in the cylinder or the wall will be damaged when the piston is removed. A small magnet or an oil soaked rag can be helpful in removing the fine shavings.
    After the cylinder is de-ridged, squirt a liberal coating of engine oil onto the cylinder walls until evenly coated. Carefully push the piston and rod assembly upwards from the bottom by using a wooden hammer handle on the bottom of the connecting rod.
    The next lowest piston should be gently pushed downwards from above. This will cause the crankshaft to turn and relocate the other pistons as well. When the piston is in its lowest position, repeat the steps used for the first piston. Repeat the procedure for each of the remaining pistons.
    When all the pistons are removed, clean the block and cylinder walls thoroughly with solvent.

Posted on Sep 30, 2008

  • 972 Answers

SOURCE: My 93 camry 2.2L is making knocking sounds.

you have damagaged either a bearing near the front of the engine or the oil pump wich is right behind the lower crankshaft pulley.

Posted on Mar 22, 2010

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1 Answer

Megan 2005 knocking from underside of car when i take my foot off the accelerator pedal and let the car run free, i have fitted a new exhaust back end braket and the knocking is still there


A knock in the motor is caused by excess fuel vapor traped in the cylinder(s).
EX: The piston moves up, spark ignites compressed air/fuel mixter, ignition forces piston back down, some fuel vavor is left unburned. Piston return trip up, unburned vapor is egnited untimely, and immediatly after new air/fuel mixter is ignited.
the second explosion rocks the upper of the cylinder beating on the valve cover, if in more than one cylinder the sound is louder.
this is caused by a weak spark and/or unballance in air/fuel ratio.

If check engine light is on, scan for codes, if this is fixex right away it cause further damage.
flooding the motor, cause No Start
blowing through valve cover gasket
piston ring will be affected

when you hear the knock louder in lower of the motor, that is an indication that the rod bearing(s) are going to go out soon, and your car is going to leave you stranded.

Best thing to do,

Stop Driving Car Until You can have your mechanic properly diagnose the problem, and be fixed.

Mar 07, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Why is engine knocking?


the serpentine belt is an accessory drive belt --a/c --alternator--power steering--water pump--etc it does not have affect on timing ---if you have an engine knock while running that would more than likely be a "rod knock" "piston knock" from a burnt main bearing,piston wrist pin ,damaged rod --if your timing was off poor running ,misfire,no start ,banging in upper engine valves hitting piston,

Oct 06, 2015 | 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix GT

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2003 kia sportage wont start seems like the timing belt. would the motor be messed up if it jumped time while driving


Oh yes... If the timing belt broke or slipped the valve timing with be off causing the open valve to come in contact with the piston. Before you jump to conclusions take the upper cover off so you can check to see if the belt broke.

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What causes upper engine knock in 2003 4.2 trailblazer?


upper engine knock can be caused by a worn cam shaft worn lifters, although this is usually a ticking noise. piston skirt collapse which can sound like its in the upper engine. a bad wrist pin even a valve hitting the top or the piston like carbon build up on top of the piston.

Aug 25, 2014 | 2003 Chevrolet TrailBlazer

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ENGINE KNOCK NOT SURE WHAT IT IS. ENGINE IS IDILING GREAT BUT MOTOR HAS A KNOCKING TO IT AND INCREASES AS MOTOR IS RACED. WHAT SHOULD I LOOK FOR?


engine oil level?? if its correct then look for another engine ,but before you do get a mechanic to have a listen first ,might just be a valve lifter ,or the flex plate on the torque converter broke ,really need to hear it to tell you what it is

Dec 10, 2009 | 1995 Lexus GS 300

1 Answer

Waterleak nopressure in hose loud knocking at top of engin


That doesn't sound good. It appears you have 1 of 2 issues. The no coolant is a bad/blown head gasket or cracked engine block. When the head gasket is bad or block is cracked the coolant leaks into the cylinder blows out the exhaust (have you noticed the smell of coolant or white smoke in the exhaust) then runs by the pistons and into the oil pan (check your oil level it is probably way high) where it mixes with your oil and reduces its viscosity/lubrication. After prolonged driving with coolant/water in the motor your bearing will wear prematurly and cause parts to become looser then they are (hense the knocking sound). If you continue driving with the knock the motor will have a mechanical breakdown and more then likely throw a rod. THis is usually a motor swap at this point. Some mechanics will replace the bearings but either or you will nee extensive work to correct. The head gaskets need to be replaced/checked and the head for warpage/seepage and possibly a cracked block plus fixing the damage to the lower end. Its usually cheaper to purchase a new/used motor as this is somehting that will cost $1000's of dollars so please pick a reputable mechanic for this kind of work... If you have an extended warranty this is the time to use it..

Oct 01, 2009 | 2002 Kia Sedona

1 Answer

Knocking on top of motor its not smoking and has


The timing has probably gone out of adjustment. Do not drive the car until you have it checked out. You may or may not have a valve / piston clearance. Sometimes carbon build up can make a clearance engine no longer have it. I hope this is the case with your engine. It is possible that you are experiencing pre-detonation (knocking and pinging) This can be a timing issue as well. An auto mechanic or experienced friend should help you with this issue. Good luck with your repairs. Thank you for letting me serve you on Fixya.

Jul 26, 2009 | 2002 Subaru Legacy

1 Answer

1992 suzuki 413 Knocking noise in motor


No, there is no direct oil feed to the gudgeon pin. There is a cross drilling on the upper half of the bigend of the conrod that allows oil to be sprayed upwards at the right moment to both lubricate and cool the piston. It sounds more like you have piston slap (excessive piston to bore clearance) that will be more pronounced when the engine is cold. It's always a good idea to either let your engine warm up a little before driving, or just drive sedately until it has warmed up.
It could be small end related, but that noise is generally only noticable at that point where the load is least on the piston to conrod connection - ie: at the time where the piston pushing the conrod changes to the conrod pushing the piston, and vice-versa. Don't worry about an oil flush. Sometimes it's the carbon deposits that stop an engine making MORE rattles!

Mar 24, 2009 | 1991 Suzuki Samurai

1 Answer

Engine knocking


Hi,
Good news is - I don't think you need a new engine.

As there are many moving parts that could create a knocking sound, it usually needs careful inspection to identify where it is from.
I will give a list of some of the causes and remedies. Yours will probably be one of them, but unless I was there - it could be any.

Loose exhaust component (causes rattles and thumps) - replace parts or joints.
Loose Engine mounts - Engine will move about a lot more than normal - Replacement of mounts.
Fraying Belts - causes continual ticking or slapping - Replace belts and check tension.
Timing is off - bad running, lack of power, pre ignition or knocking at low revs. Check timing belt - Replace, Tune engine.
Cracked valve - slight misfire worse at low revs - Replacement valves.
Clutch Problems - Broken spring or loose bolt - Check clutch plate - replace clutch plates.
Older engines - often accompanying smoke -
Broken Piston ring - continual ticking or occasional misfire - Replace Piston rings
Worn Piston bearings - Piston Slap - Replacement of all piston bearings.

Transmission Problems (only heard when in gear or with clutch out) - Broken gear teeth or worn bearings - Replacement of Transmission or rebuild.

Some of these remedies require engine removal and strip down, others are a simpler fix.

Dec 26, 2008 | 1990 Cadillac Fleetwood

2 Answers

Cam position sensor fault indicated on computer diagnostics .Timing chain jumped will this have caused valve damage.Vehicle is a civic type r on 2002


With Vtech motors, if the timing belt jumps to much yes you will get valve/piston damage. This type of damage is usually very noticable (knocking, loud head noise, no start) Best thing to do if no damage is noticed have the belt adjusted back into timing. jumping one rib maybe 2 might not have enough to cause damage my prelude jumped and didn't have a problem

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