Question about 1990 Ford F150
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Please Help ME by Remembering to RATE ME Thank you Vrey Much !!!
This vehicle does not use an external fuel tank switching valve. A supply check valve in the fuel pump assembly opens when the outlet pressure from the energized fuel pump exceeds the opposing check valve spring force.
R E C A L L 1991
THE DUAL FUEL TANK SELECTOR VALVE MAY MALFUNCTION AND CAUSE AN OVERFILL CONDITION IN ONE OF THE FUEL TANKS, RESULTING IN AN OVERFLOW OF FUEL PAST THE FILLER CAP.
THE OVERFLOW OF FUEL PAST THE FILLER CAP CAUSES A FUEL LEAKAGE, WHICH CAN RESULT IN A FIRE WHEN EXPOSED TO A SOURCE OF IGNITION.
REPLACE THE DUAL FUEL TANK SELECTOR VALVE.
SYSTEM: FUEL TANK, AUXILIARY.
VANS AND LIGHT TRUCKS WITH DUAL FUEL TANKS PRODUCED IN THE FOLLOWING PERIODS: F150, F250, AND F350 LIGHT TRUCKS BUILT BETWEEN FEBRUARY 28, 1989 AND JULY, 1989; ECONOLINE BUILT BETWEEN FEBRUARY 28, 1989 AND FEBRUARY 11, 1991.
NOTE: FORD HAS AGREED TO RECALL THESE VEHICLES BUT PARTS ARE NOT YET AVAILABLE.PARTS WILL BE AVAILABLE IN DECEMBER 1991. YOU WILL RECEIVE A LETTER FROM FORD ADVISING YOU WHEN TO SCHEDULE AN APPOINTMENT WITH YOUR DEALER TO HAVE THE RECALL WORK PERFORMED. IN THE MEAN TIME, YOU CAN TAKE THE FOLLOWING PRECAUTIONS:FILL EACH TANK TO ONLY 1/3 FULL. IF YOUR VEHICLE LEAKS FUEL OR IF YOU SMELL FUEL, STOP USING THE VEHICLE AND CALL FORD AT (313) 446-4654 AND ADVISE THEM OF YOUR PROBLEM. REFER TO FORD SAFETY RECALL NUMBER 91S39. AN OPERATOR WILL TAKE YOUR NAME AND TELEPHONE NUMBER. A FORD REPRESENTATIVE WILL CALL YOU BACK
Posted on Jan 21, 2009
SOURCE: ford f350 drum brake
Don't listen to the last guy. The drum does not just slide off. You have to remove the axle by removing the eight 5/8" bolts and pulling it out. Inside the hub you will find a ratcheting lock nut. Visible will be 4 slots where a special socket fits. You can buy the socket from a parts store or you can just use a 1/4" punch and slowly hammer to slowly thread the nut off. Drivers side is left hand thread while the passenger side is right hand thread. Remove the nut and the outer bearing will fall out (so catch it before it hits the dirt). Then slide the drum off. While you inside there it is a good idea to replace the axle seal. It's about $30 and an easy change.
Posted on Apr 19, 2009
Removal & Installation 1. Disconnect the positive and negative battery cables.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Remove the starter terminal cover.
4. Remove the terminal nut and separate the battery starter cable from the starter motor.
5. Disconnect the solenoid (S) terminal connector, if equipped with a starter mounted solenoid.
ø To disconnect the hard-shell connector from the solenoid (S) terminal, grasp the plastic shell and pull off; do not pull on the wire. Pull straight off to prevent damage to the connector and (S) terminal.
6. Remove the starter motor retaining bolts.
7. Remove the starter motor from the vehicle.
8. Place the starter motor in position and install the starter motor retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 15-20 ft. lbs. (20-27 Nm).
9. Install the battery starter cable and a terminal nut to the starter motor. Tighten the terminal nuts to 79 inch lbs. (9 Nm).
10. Connect the solenoid (S) terminal connector, if equipped with a starter mounted solenoid.
11. Install the starter solenoid safety cap. If equipped.
12. Lower the vehicle.
13. Connect the positive and negative battery cables.
14. Start the engine several times to check starter motor operation
Posted on May 27, 2009
simple : obtain replacement pump from parts provider (no used stuff)
Now help me out here: thats the year they were bolted to the pass side front of engine
and not inside the tank right? (better go look to see for sure)
using a tube wrench unscrew the fuel lines (i use large wire nuts to temp block off fuel leakage)
with a 12 mm wrench undo the two side bolts holding the pump to block
wiggle pump it should come straight off
clean mounting place on block with solvent let dry
silicone back (or use gasket that comes with pump ) of pump
apply pump to block (depending on where crank stopped you may have some tension on arm you will have to overcome to get flange to meet block )
use locktite (blue)or simmiliar thread lock on bolts retighten firmly but not hang up the dog tight
use light grease or vasolene on tube connections don't try to tighten dry
Now the fun part your diesel now has air in the fuel system
there are two ways to remove this ( hard and harder)
your choice here are both methods
loosten the fuel supply line for #8 injector ( I did not say remove) 1 full turn ought to be enough
crank engine 30 seconds only
wait 5 minutes for starter to cool down
crank engine 30 sec again
did it start but runs rough while it's still running tighten #8 injector (caution fuel under high pressure)
engine smooth out good your lucky
engine did not start yet
wait 5 minutes
crank engine 30 sec again
if so tighten #8 injector up
Now here's something I've done to my diesel to make this much less a hasstle
trace fuel line as it comes up from pump
obtain a small low pressure electric fuel pump and a two short pieces of fuel line
and a few clamps
use tube cutter and cut fuel line just before it bends to go in filter
slide tube and clamps over pipe (both sides)
insert pump observe flow arrrow towards filter
the wires of pump can be stretched over to #1 battery terminals
now any time you change a filter or open your fuel system for any reason
all you need do is connect pump to battery
open sharader valve on top of filter for a few min
and start truck as normal
then disconnect wires and stow away for another day
Posted on Jul 08, 2009
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