Question about Volkswagen Jetta
Without a good look i couldnt advise ,only to return to factory spec as this lowering will affect the vehicle in as much as it will not pass its anual vehicle inspection as this modification will deviate from the original certificate of homoglonation specifications which cover the design height of the vehicle and any variation of these specs are classed as illegal and as such will incur a fine from the traffic police and also will render the insurance invalid as the vehicle is not to its design specs .
Posted on Oct 16, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: CV joint replacement
Generally no tool is required. If you use a "pickle fork" you will risk damaging the dust boot.
Have you tried whacking the spindle right near where the ball joint stud comes through? This will take a few good shots to break it loose.
Be careful not to hit the threads!
Posted on Jun 25, 2008
First thing to do is drive the car and when you start hearing the rattle,
lightly touch the brakes. This
effectively loads up the callipers and drive shafts. If the noise goes away, you might have
rattling calliper pins (even new Honda’s suffer with this) or it might be
either the inner or outer drive shaft couplings (more likely the outer drive
shaft couplings) which may be cracked or badly worn. It could be 100 things but as a tip, get
yourself a very good inspection lamp and check every nut and bolt connected to
the suspension, brakes and engine support systems. You should be looking for signs of wear,
rubbing and also rusting around and on joints – that’s a good indicator that
things are not tight. Hope this helps.
Posted on Jun 19, 2009
Bring it to your mechanic this is not easy you need to take the wheel off
unbolt the axle if you can get the axle out without taking off the ball joints than do so but usually you will need a big set of tools and special puller for the idler arm. Make sure you disconnect the abs sensor or wire going to your brakes take center bolt out of center of rotor take ball joint nuts off.You need a ball joint seperater.Only use on junk ball joints.
Pull rotor assembly and caliper braket and rotor off in one peice be carefull not to break the brake lines to the caliper.If you are going to attempt this it can lead to serious bodily injury it should be done by a mechanic.After this is done unbolt cv axle from axle transfer case/transmition.The ball joints need a press and may need to be heated to get out of control arm.Bring it to a mechanic or met a nice guy that will do it cheep
Posted on Jan 15, 2010
SOURCE: lower ball joint replace
take the net off the end off the axle shaft and seperate the spindle from the ball joind and the tierod end. now just push or tap the axle out of the spindle and use a pry bar to pop the axle haft out of the front dift. or unbolt from dift if thats your application.
Posted on Apr 05, 2010
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Jul 09, 2016 | Cars & Trucks
The lower control arm is a two-piece welded unit with a riveted ball joint. A conventional rubber bushing is used for the rear lower control arm pivot. The front lower control arm bushing is mounted vertically.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Some special tools are required to perform this operation including, a front hub spindle removal tool and a suitable ball joint separator tool.
WARNING Do not hammer or pry ball joint from knuckle. Failure to use recommended tools may cause damage to the ball joint and seal.
See Figure 1
Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the control arm-to-frame mounting
Apr 20, 2013 | Pontiac Cars & Trucks
Lexus Car ES, IS, LS 1998-06
Coil Spring Rear Suspension
Fig. Checking wheel bearings for excessive play
NOTE The rear wheel bearings are non-adjustable. If the wheel bearing is out of specifications, replace the wheel bearing.
Removal & Installation
Fig. Removing the oil seal (inner)-LS 430
Fig. Removing the oil seal (outer)-LS 430
Snapring from inside the axle housing Bearing from the axle housing
Fig. Installing the oil seal (outer)-LS 430
Backing plate to the axle housing. Do NOT install the bolts or nuts at this time. Inner race (inside) to the axle housing Axle hub to the axle housing Backing plate in position. Tighten the bolts and nuts to 43 ft. lbs. (59 Nm). New oil seal (inner) to the axle housing. Coat the oil seal lip with multipurpose grease.
Fig. Installing the oil seal (inner)-LS 430
New dust deflector. Be sure to align the hose for the ABS speed sensor in the dust deflector and axle carrier. Upper control arm to the axle carrier by installing the nut. Tighten the nut to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm). Axle carrier and upper control arm to the vehicle as an assembly 2 upper control arm set bolts and tighten the bolts to 121 ft. lbs. (164 Nm) Bolt and nut holding the strut to the axle carrier. Tighten to 101 ft. lbs. (137 Nm). Bolt and nut connecting the No. 2 lower control arm to the axle carrier. Tighten the bolt to 60 ft. lbs. (81 Nm). Nut and adjusting cam to hold the No. 2 lower control arm to the body. Align the adjusting cam marks and tighten the nut to 57 ft. lbs. (78 Nm). Stabilizer bar link to the No. 2 lower control arm and tighten the nut to 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm) No. 1 lower control arm to the axle carrier and body. Install the nut to hold the No. 1 lower control arm to the axle carrier. Tighten the nut to 43 ft. lbs. (59 Nm). Nut and adjusting cam to hold the No. 1 lower control arm to the body. Align the matchmarks and tighten the nut to 57 ft. lbs. (78 Nm). Strut rod to the axle carrier and body. Install the bolt and nut to hold the strut rod to the body. Tighten to 57 ft. lbs. (78 Nm). Bolt and nut to hold the strut rod to the axle carrier. Tighten to 136 ft. lbs. (184 Nm) Parking brake shoes and cable Outboard joint side of the halfshaft and align the matchmarks on the side gear shaft and the halfshaft. Coat the threads with clean oil and install the hexagon bolts. Tighten bolts to 61 ft. lbs. (83 Nm). Suspension member brace with the 2 bolts. Tighten the 2 bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm). Nut to hold the halfshaft to the rear axle. Tighten the nut to 213 ft. lbs. (289 Nm). Lock cap and cotter pin Brake disc to the axle hub with the matchmarks aligned. Install the 2 screws and tighten the screws to 48 inch lbs. (5 Nm). Brake caliper to the vehicle and install the 2 bolts. Tighten the bolts to 77 ft. lbs. (104 Nm). ABS speed sensor and wiring harness Height control sensor link with the matchmarks aligned. Tighten the nut to 48 inch lbs. (5 Nm). Rear wheel(s) Negative battery cable
Fig. Exploded view rear carrier assembly, hub and bearing-
Fig. Exploded view rear Axle carrier and hub assembly-ES 330
Removal & Installation
Strut & Coil Spring
Removal & Installation
Dec 26, 2011 | 1999 Lexus ES 300
Oct 20, 2011 | Cars & Trucks
Oct 26, 2010 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500
Raise and support the vehicle on jack stands. Using the ½-inch air gun, remove the wheels. Use the wire cutters to remove the cotter pin in the lower ball joint.
Unscrew and remove the two bolts holding the caliper to the mounting bracket. The bolts run through the caliper from the engine side. Remove the caliper, but do not let it hang by its hose.
Use a wrench to take the nut off of the lower ball joint. Insert the ball joint removal tool in between the spindle and the lower control arm. Hit the tool with the hammer until the ball joint comes loose.
Use the ½-inch air gun and the proper socket to remove the large nut on the end of the CV axle. This is the one in the center of the rotor. Push the axle in toward the engine slightly, just to make sure it is loose. If it is not loose, tap it with a hammer.
Use the ½ inch air gun and an 18mm socket to remove the two large bolts in the base of the strut where it is attached to the spindle. Pull the spindle from the strut to separate the two.
Grab the rotor and lift the lower ball joint out of the spindle. Pull the CV joint out of the spindle and then place the lower ball joint on the spindle back into the lower control arm to hold it there.
Insert the pry bar between the inner CV joint and the transmission. Use a fast yank on the pry bar to pry the CV joint from the transmission.
Insert the new CV joint into the transmission as far as it will go by hand. The CV joint has a snap ring on the end that is going in the transmission. It gives a little resistance to going in. Use both hands and pull the outer end out about 1 inch and then slam it in toward the engine. This quick movement will get the CV joint to seat in the transmission. Check to make sure that the CV joint is all the way in before proceeding--look at the distance between the CV joint and the transmission.
Insert the outer end of the CV shaft into the spindle and rotate the rotor slightly to get the splines to line up. Push it in until the tip of the axle begins to come out the outside of the spindle enough to get the large nut on. Put the large nut on a couple of turns. Put the nut back on the lower ball joint but do not tighten it yet.
Push the spindle back into the lower mounting point on the strut and insert the two large bolts and nuts. Use the ½-inch air gun to tighten securely. Use a wrench to tighten the nut on the lower ball joint. Insert the cotter pin below the nut for safety.
Tighten down the large axle nut securely with the ½-inch air gun. Put the brake caliper back on and insert the two bolts through the caliper and tighten. Replace the wheels and the lug n
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