Question about 1981 Ford F 100

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Need to remove damper but crank turn how do i

Trying to remove pulley on 351 cleveland but crank rotates and cant remove

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Have a friend under the car holding a pry bar into the teeth of the flex plate (flywheel). Without a strap wrench, that's the easiest way.

Posted on Jul 01, 2009

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Usually i use chain wrench or strap wrench to hold pulley in place!

Posted on Apr 25, 2009

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1969 with 351 Windsor stock engine. Once it reaches 1,500 rpms why do the tach & engine jump up and down?

If this is a points type ignition, check for excess play side to side in the distributor shaft, and also for timing chain slack--easily tested by removing dist. cap and rotating engine back and forth with wrench on crank pulley bolt. If rotor doesn't move immediately as crank turns you have loose timing chain.

Oct 02, 2015 | Ford Mustang Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

99 Lincoln town car pulleys stop rotating What's the problem

What pulley does not want to rotate. Is it the crank pulley. If it is, the lock key on your crank might have gotten damage due to the pulley that came loose or the vibration damper that is situated between your crank pulley broke loose and the part connected to the crank turns but the outer part of the pulley is not rotating.

Apr 03, 2015 | 1999 Lincoln Town Car

1 Answer

How to remove dog clutch coupling from marine 351 cleveland

have you checked for set screws ???
a puller comes to mind
and some PB Blaster

Sep 07, 2014 | 1988 Ford Falcon

1 Answer

Where do all the hoses go from the cooling resivor on a 2000 ford focus with a 2.0L split port engine?where do all the hoses go from the cooling resivor on a 2000 ford focus with a 2.0L split port engine?...

#2 reidk Focus Enthusiast Join Date: Jul 2012 Fan#: 101538 Location: Winnetka, CA What I Drive: 2000 Red Focus SE Wagon Posts: 72 FF Reputation: 1 Buy-Sell-Trade Rating: (0) That leak is coming from the water pump, which in the SPI is behind the timing belt. That plate to which the hoses attach is, in fact, the water pump. You\'re going to have to replace it, and you should (must!) replace the timing belt too since you\'ll have it out anyway. The pulley below the camshaft pulley (top) is the tensioner and doesn\'t need to be removed if it\'s working correctly (turns smoothly). The next pulley down is part of the water pump that you\'ll be removing. The pump is held on with four bolts that you\'ll see after you get the belt off. Since you\'ve already uncovered the timing belt, you\'re about halfway there. I assume that the car is up on stands, you\'ve removed the engine mount and are supporting the engine from below on a jack or stand, and you\'ve got both the upper (metal) and lower (plastic) timing covers off as well as the serpentine belt and its cover (splash guard). If not, do all that. You\'ll also want the steering fluid reservoir and coolant reservoir out of the way. Removing the passenger tire and the inner fender lining can make things easier as well. In general, removing things that are in the way and putting them back later will end up being less hassle than trying to work around them, at least in my experience. From there, the steps are: Drain the coolant (valve at the bottom of the radiator). CLOSE THE VALVE. Remove the crankshaft damper (bottom-most serpentine pulley) to uncover the crankshaft timing pulley. (This step sounds so simple... it\'s just one bolt... hah hah hah...) Rotate the engine until the timing marks on the cam timing pulley and crank timing pulley are at 12 o\'clock (they line up with marks on the engine). Loosen the timing tensioner bolt, rotate the tensioner to slack the belt, and tighten the bolt again, just enough to hold the tensioner off the belt. Remove the belt. Disconnect the hoses and unbolt the pump. Clean the mating surfaces, trying not to get any crap in the engine\'s water passages. Apply a new gasket with sealant, install the new pump, torque the four bolts to spec. Re-attach hoses. Install the new belt, making sure that the timing marks are where you left them. Rotate cam or crank as needed if not. (Removing the sparkplugs makes this easier). Loosen the tensioner bolt to re-tension the belt, then torque the tensioner bolt to spec. If the tensioner doesn\'t turn smoothly, replace it. Check the timing marks again. Put everything else back and torque the crank damper to spec. If you figure out the serpentine routing on the first try, consider yourself very cool. Refill coolant and fire it up.

Aug 10, 2014 | 2000 Ford Focus

1 Answer

I changed thehead on my 1995 geo metro now it wont strart the rotor button turns but cant get it to fire

You will have to tear it back down where you can get to timing belt and all pulleys.

Timing Belt

See Figures 1, 2 and 3

0900c15280048765.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 1: Timing belt, tensioner and camshaft gear

0900c15280048766.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 2: Timing belt alignment marks

0900c15280048767.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 3: Timing belt tensioner and belt
Timing belts must always be handled carefully and kept completely free of dirt, grease, fluids and lubricants. This includes any accidental contact from spillage, fingerprints, rags, etc. These same precautions apply to the pulleys and contact surfaces on which the belt rides.The belt must never be crimped, twisted or bent. Never use tools to pry or wedge the belt into place. Such actions will damage the structure of the belt and possibly cause breakage.

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Remove the 4 crankshaft pulley bolts and remove the crankshaft pulley.

It is not necessary to loosen the crankshaft timing belt pulley bolt at the center.
  1. Remove the timing belt cover.
  2. Align the 4 timing marks by turning the crankshaft.
  3. Remove the timing belt tensioner, tensioner plate, tensioner spring, spring damper and timing belt.

After the timing belt is removed, never turn the camshaft or crankshaft independently. If turned, interference may occur among the pistons, and valves and parts related to the pistons and valves may be damaged.
  1. Inspect the timing belt for wear or cracks and replace as necessary. Check the tensioner for smooth rotation.

To install:
  1. Install the tensioner plate to the tensioner.
  2. Insert the lug of the tensioner plate into the hole of the tensioner.
  3. Install the tensioner, tensioner plate and spring. Do not tighten the tensioner bolt and stud, make the bolt hand tight only.

Be sure that plate movement is installed in the proper direction that causes the same directional movement of the tensioner inner race. If no movement between the plate and inner race occurs remove the tensioner and plate again and reinsert the plate lug into the tensioner hole.
  1. Check that the timing mark on the camshaft timing pulley is aligned with the V mark on the cylinder head cover. If not align the 2 marks by turning the camshaft by be careful not to turn it more than the allowable range.
  2. Check that the punch mark on the crankshaft timing belt pulley is aligned with the arrow mark on the oil pump case. If not align the 2 marks by turning the camshaft by be careful not to turn it more than the allowable range.
  3. With the 4 marks aligned, install the timing belt on the 2 pulleys in such a way that the arrow marks on the belt (if so equipped) coincide with the rotating direction of the crankshaft. In this state the No. 1 piston is at top dead center of its compression stroke.
  4. Install the tensioner spring and spring damper. To allow the belt to be free of any slack, turn the crankshaft 2 rotations clockwise after installing the tensioner spring and damper. After removing the belt slack, first tighten the tensioner stud to 8 ft. lbs.. (11 Nm) and then the tensioner bolt to 20 ft. lbs.. (27 Nm).

As a final check, confirm that both sets of timing marks are aligned properly.
  1. Ensure that the seal is between the water pump and the oil pump case. Install the timing belt outside cover. Torque the timing belt cover bolts to 8 ft. lbs.. (11 Nm).
  2. Install the crankshaft pulley. Fit the keyway on the pulley to the key on the crank timing belt pulley and tighten the 4 bolts to 8 ft. lbs.. (11 Nm).
  3. Lower the vehicle and install the negative battery cable.

Apr 13, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I have a 1999 Chrysler Cirrus. The serpentine belt came off that goes to the alternator and the air conditioner unit, I was told by a mechanic that the dampner pulley is bad. Some autopart sites have a...

Hi, assuming you have the 2.5 liter engine, your damper is integral to the pulley assembly as shown in the second figure below, so there is only one part involved. You can see an example of the part here:
If you look carefully at the pic below, you can see the rubber torus inside the pulley. The rubber is what fails and causes the pulley to wobble. You may need to borrow a puller to get the pulley off.

2.5L Engine
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
  2. Disconnect battery negative cable from remote negative terminal on shock tower and properly isolate to prevent accidental reconnection.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:

    Belt splash shield Accessory drive belts. Refer to Belts. Crankshaft center bolt and remove crankshaft damper.


    Fig. Splash shield removal-2.5L engine


    Fig. Crank damper and bolt- 2.5L engine

To install:
  1. Clean crankshaft snout and crankshaft damper bore.
  2. Install or connect the following:

    Crankshaft damper. Crankshaft bolt and torque to 143 ft. lbs. (182 Nm) Accessory drive belts. Refer to Belts. Belt splash shield

Oct 05, 2011 | 1999 Chrysler Cirrus

1 Answer

The bottom pulley for the drive belt is wobbling and making a loud sound. do i need to replace the pulley and is it the bearings in the pulley?

The bottom pulley on any engine is attached directly to the torsional vibration damper which is attached to the crankshaft. That pulley drives the serpentine belt and has no bearings. First thing you need to do is find out if the pulley bolts have become loose or if the damper on the crank is loose.
If you find the pulley loose, if the bolt holes are not elongated, just tighten it back up. If the damper is loose, remove it from the engine (puller usually necessary) and inspect the crank snout and the alignment key for wear. Any damage to the damper requires that it be replaced. If the crank snout is severely damaged, that requires that the crank itself be replaced (very expensive).

Jun 09, 2011 | 2001 Oldsmobile Alero

1 Answer

I have a 2.3 how do i install the timing belt

Align harmonic damper mark at TDC with #1 piston at top. You'll have to remove harmonic damper on front of crank. (You can do it without removing the damper, but it's a real pain in the rear.) This WILL require an industrial strength impact wrench to break the bolt loose. Pull spark plugs. Makes last step easy and you can use a screwdriver to make sure #1 is at top. You'll see tick marks on the crank pulley, the cam pulley and the auxillary shaft pulley. These marks must line up. Use a straight edge (ruler, piece of flat metal stock, etc.) to make sure they're aligned. Pull tensioner arm back and lock it there. Install belt around pullies. Now comes the tricky part. Whne you release the tensioner, the auxillary shaft will rotate at least one tooth off of alignment. Release tension and compensate auxillary shaft postion. You want the marks aligned with the belt under tension. Now using a long wrench, rotate the engine clockwise by turning the crank balancer bolt. After 2 complete revolutions back to TDC, confirm timing mark alignment on the pullies. If they're off, redo it until they're aligned. Good luck.

Oct 14, 2009 | 1996 Ford Ranger SuperCab

1 Answer

Removing the Damper/Hormonic Balancer

go get a harmonic balancer puller from parts store and follow instructions on box. will come of a seconds

Jun 05, 2009 | 1991 Buick Regal

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