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I got 2001 Dodge Dakota 3.9 v6 when I start it up the oil pressure is fine when I Drive it for a few minutes pressure drops right back down and the motor starts clicking if I've been off and started back up the oil pressure is normal and drops right back out will drive when I started officials to Oprah's is fine when I Drive with for 5 to 10 minutes to boil pusher drops right down and the motor starts ticking

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  • 77 Answers

It may be your oil pump

Posted on Oct 15, 2013

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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jmcc419594
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SOURCE: 2001 dodge grand caravan stalls

Check the sensors on the throttle body. There is a sensor that controls air to fuel ratio. If that sensor is bad then the car will run and then stall out while in drive. I had the same problem when it was cold outside last winter. If you dont want to dish out the money without knowing if it is that part at fault or not then start the van pop the hood and located the throttle body. Place your hand on the sensors and give them a little shake and then make sure they are plugged in all the way. You could also turn the van off and unhook the sensor clean the connectors and plug it back in. That should do the trick and if it doesnt stall anymore then I would replace those sensors if I was you. One more thing. If your giving the sensors a tug while the car is running and you hear it going to stall you could located the gas pedal cable and give it a rev or two by hand so it doesnt stall out and turn off. By the way. You van isnt over heating at all is it?

Posted on Jul 07, 2009

  • 653 Answers

SOURCE: '97 Dodge Dakota 5.2l oil pressure problems

On the 318 (5.2 liter) V-8 that was in my 1973 Dodge Dart Sport, I started having oil pressure problems with valve ticking and clunking around the crankshaft around 173,000 miles. Prior to the problem, I had bought a couple cases of Pennzoil on sale. Needless to say, when I finally dropped the pan, the sludge had baked to a ceramic-like texture. I soaked the pick up screen in solvent to disolve the crud, replaced the oil pump, and replaced the main and rod bearings with undersized bearings (.001" undersized). The oil pressure went up to normal, the valve tick went away, and the clunking on the bottom end went away. The engine felt as tight like new, and should have lasted for another 150,000+ miles if the nitwit I sold it to hadn't wrapped it around a light pole. By the way, don't ever use no-name, Pennzoil or Quaker State motor oil. The minimal savings will cost you in the long run.

Posted on Feb 26, 2009

keemo68
  • 1263 Answers

SOURCE: Oil Pressure Drops While Driving

your oil pump is either weak or there is sludge i9n the oil pan. my adives is to have the oil pan dropped . chances are sludge is the culprit. as the oil get's warm the pressure should only drop slightly but pressure is generally dictated by engine rpm. pumps are gear driven so if it was a bad pump your oil pressure would start out very low at start up.

Posted on Aug 28, 2008

  • 599 Answers

SOURCE: Ticking Noise in 01 Chevy Silverado 2500

if noise is higher pitched and coming in on valve time...(2wice for every revolution of motor..ie: faster)...then upper end pressure is down due to sludge, wear , lifter failure, valvespring failure,rocker stud lifting out of cylinder head (kinda common) cam bearings failing (very rare)..oil pump bypass stuck open..and a few other possibilities... respond and we will go over lower end sound (deeper ,slower) and see what identifies your issues .... miles

Posted on Dec 05, 2008

plkruger
  • 32 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 Dodge Dakota 3.9L oil pressure

The pickup tube is a bad design in these engines, I have fixed several with the same problem, you can weld on a GM screen move it 1/4 of a inch away from the pan or add 1 inch to the bottom of the pan, (use a high volume pump) the problem is the screen is too close and too small and will pick up any sludge off the bottom. also it's great to make a access plate on the bottom of the pan using a Volkswagen Bug oil cover plate, it can be removed with bolts after a oil drain to clean the screen without the hassle of removing the whole oil pan by lifting the engine on these trucks. Good Luck

Posted on Feb 20, 2009

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If it has high miles over 100,000 miles it just might be oil pump. But first I would chenge oil sending unit , and yes it hea one,Back of engine, just to the passenger side of theviewlargerimg.gif
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The pickup tube is a bad design in these engines, I have fixed several with the same problem, you can weld on a GM screen move it 1/4 of a inch away from the pan or add 1 inch to the bottom of the pan, (use a high volume pump) the problem is the screen is too close and too small and will pick up any sludge off the bottom. also it's great to make a access plate on the bottom of the pan using a Volkswagen Bug oil cover plate, it can be removed with bolts after a oil drain to clean the screen without the hassle of removing the whole oil pan by lifting the engine on these trucks. Good Luck

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