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Hydroboost steering (cant keep truck in 1 lane)bad

Hydroboost steering (cant keep truck in 1 lane)bad when truck gets warmed up drifts and over steers on counter steer. steering: new pan hard bar bushings, kingpins, tie rods, steering/gearbox, power steering pump, hydroboost, power steering cooler, (left in stock cooler its attached to transmission under bell housing) added new 8x14 power steering cooler in front of radiator. flushed system had alignment done. problem initiated when i had kingpins (play), pan hard bar bushings and hydroboost (leaking) replaced same day, all were bad. kingpins dont turn too hard by hand passenger side is a bit tighter not too bad. 1.5k miles since kingpin replace and problem started. regreased everything after 200 miles and 3 times since. leafspring bushings need replaced. but truck steers much worse when motor is hot. fan clutch great and stiff truck runs at 1/4 temp on gauge.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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66 chrgr
  • 1011 Answers

SOURCE: Power steering fluid leak in two places on power rod under truck

it sounds like tour power steering rack and pinion may be leaking this is what you call the actuator rod.

Posted on Feb 04, 2009

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SOURCE: How to change inner tie rod ends?

if fluid is flowing out the bellows, you need to replace the steering rack assembly. There is no fluid in the area of the inner tie rod. The seal is just before the tie rod.

Steering Gear
The power rack and pinion steering gear is serviced as a power steering short rack (3L547). The front wheel spindle tie rods (3280) and tie rod ends (3A130) are serviced individually. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

  • The power rack and pinion steering gear incorporates quick connect fittings for the power steering pressure hose (3A719) and power steering return hose (3A713) that allow the lines to swivel. This is normal and does not indicate loose fittings.
  • If the fittings leak, check to make sure they are tightened to 14-20 Nm (10-14 lb-ft). Do not overtighten.
  • If the leak is not corrected, replace the fitting seals.
-------------------------------------------------------------
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Section 11-02: Steering System, Power 1997 Windstar Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Tie Rod End Steering Gear Installed
Removal
  1. Remove and discard cotter pin and nut from worn tie rod end (3A130).
  1. Disconnect tie rod end from front wheel knuckle (3K185), using Tie Rod End Remover TOOL-3290-D or equivalent.
  1. Hold tie rod end with a wrench and loosen tie rod end jam nut.
  1. Note depth to which tie rod end was located by using the jam nut as a marker. Grip tie rod end with a pair of suitable pliers and remove tie rod end from front wheel spindle tie rod (3280).
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
11-02: Steering System, Power 1997 Windstar Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Steering Gear Removal
  1. Raise vehicle on a twin post hoist and remove wheel and tire assemblies. Refer to Section 00-02 .


    13b4d70.gif

  1. Support vehicle with jackstands under front jack pads.
  1. Remove tie-rod end cotter pins and nuts and remove tie rod ends (3A130) from front wheel knuckle (3K185). Refer to Section 04-01 .
  1. Remove front stabilizer bar (5482). Refer to Section 04-01 .
  1. Disconnect heated oxygen and catalyst monitor sensors.
  1. Support flex pipe.
  1. Remove bolts and disconnect flex pipe from the converter.
  1. Raise dash opening steering column opening weather seal (3513) (secondary) above the steering gear housing (3548).
  1. Remove pinch bolt retaining steering column intermediate shaft coupling (3A525) to power steering gear input shaft and control (3D517) and disconnect the shaft.
  1. Remove nuts from steering gear-to-front subframe retaining bolts. Remove bolts.
  1. Remove rear subframe-to-body retaining bolts.
  1. Lower twin post hoist carefully until rear of subframe (5R003) separates from body, approximately four inches.
  1. Remove heat shield band and fold shield down.
  1. Rotate power rack and pinion steering gear to clear bolts from front subframe (5C145) and pull left to facilitate line fitting removal.
  1. Place a drain pan under vehicle and remove line fittings.
  1. Remove power rack and pinion steering gear through LH wheel well.
  1. Remove and discard the O-rings.
Installation
  1. Install new Teflon® O-rings on line fittings as outlined.
  1. Place steering gear retaining bolts in steering gear housing.
  1. Install power rack and pinion steering gear through LH wheel well.
  1. Install power steering line fittings to power rack and pinion steering gear.
  1. Position power rack and pinion steering gear into front subframe.
  1. Install ******** heat shield.
  1. Install tie-rod ends to front wheel knuckle. Install nuts and new cotter pins. Refer to Section 04-01 .
  1. Install LH front stabilizer bar. Refer to Section 04-01 .
  1. Install steering gear to subframe mounting nuts. Tighten to 115-135 Nm (85-99 lb-ft).
  1. Raise hoist until rear subframe contacts body.
  1. Install rear subframe to body retaining bolts. Tighten to 113-153 Nm (83-112 lb-ft).
  1. Install exhaust system flex tube to dual converter Y pipe (5F250) and remove flex tube support.
  1. Connect heated oxygen and catalyst monitor sensors.
  1. Install tire and wheel assemblies. Tighten lug nuts (1012) to 115-142 Nm (85-104 lb-ft).
  1. Using a new pinch bolt, install the steering column intermediate shaft coupling on the power steering gear input shaft and control and the lower steering column shaft. Tighten the pinch bolt to 34-46 Nm (25-33 lb-ft).
  1. Position steering column opening weather seal (secondary) over the steering gear housing. Tighten nuts to 4.5-6.3 Nm (40-55 lb-in).
  1. Remove jackstands and lower vehicle.
  1. Fill power steering oil reservoir (3A697) with Premium Power Steering Fluid E6AZ-19582-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESW-M2C33-F. Refer to Section 11-00 .
  1. Check system for leaks and proper operation.

Posted on Apr 15, 2009

emissionwiz
  • 76682 Answers

SOURCE: 2006 Pontiac G6 front wheel vibration

sounds like your front end is worn out and yes tie rod ends are a common source of this problem along with out of balance tires and seperated tire cords, any tire store will inspect your car for free and give you an estimate to repair.

Posted on Sep 18, 2009

  • 6982 Answers

SOURCE: 2006 Pontiac G6 wheel vibration

Tie rod ends do not have bushings (ball and socket like your hip). If vibration begins at 50-55 but goes away at slightly higher speed, it could be caused by wheel balance. Once balance has been checked jack up each front wheel and shake them back and forth and check for any loose steering components. If reasonably tight, My guess is that you have a bad hub bearing. If you don't know how to change them, get a manual to guide you (chiltons or haynes are OK for this). Pretty much it is a bolt out bolt in procedure and not terribly difficult except that sometimes the hub is rusted in and is a bear to get out. Need any help with that, just ask.
Note...many bad hub bearings show no obvious defects...but can create a strong vibration...just determine which side is noisy and change it. Scrapyard parts are inexpensive and generally fairly reliable as replacements.

Posted on Sep 18, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: 2003 Dodge Durango clunking noise in front end can

With the information given this is not a sure solution. Questions that need to be asked is when does this happen, turning at slow speedm high speed, when hitting a pot hole etc? Since you have replaced a lot of things already, assuming you have NEW good quality parts so you did not replace bad parts with new bad parts i would definitelu check the pitman arm. This runs from the stering gear to the tierod. It can give you some good clunks while steering, especially at low speed when there is a lot of resistance. Check it by having someone turning the steering wheel when watchin/feeling it.

Posted on Sep 18, 2009

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