Question about 1989 Jeep Cherokee
The fuel pump relay is under the hood passenger side on top of wheel well behind the battery.the fuse is in the fuse block under the dash drivers side near the kick panel.as for the battery,mine was draining at 1 time turned out to be the door switches for the dome lights,so i ran a bypass to a toggle switch to the fuse block(also controls the radio and clock)in the fuse block.
Posted on Nov 05, 2013
The relay is in the small fuse box in the engine bay. relays can burn out and lock up in power flow. if this has happened it can also burn out the pump as there is no fuel being moved as the fuel line is cut of by the valve when engine is not running.
Posted on Oct 15, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Same thing happened to me at about 140k. It was the fuel pump. Best way to test if your pump is failing and loosing pressure is to see if the car will start immediately after it has been running, or turn the key to the alt position for a few minutes before starting. If your engine fires faster after it has been running or the key has been in the alt position you will probably need a new fuel pump. Great news is with a very deep socket to get the tank straps off its a 30 minute job to replace the pump/filter assembly.
Posted on Dec 29, 2008
I think I have found the problem. When I wiggle the ignition switch the turn signals and radio go on and off so I feel the issue is in the ignition switch. From what I understand the actual electronics for the switch are at the base of the sterring column behind the lower dash panel and is connected by a rod that may need adjusting.
Posted on Jan 04, 2009
Between 100-140 thousand miles the fuel pumps go out on the 1993 cherokee. Its a fact. All parts are manufactured with the knowledge that it will last for a specific period of time then it dies. The relay switch was helpful for a brief while because there was still some juice in that pump, but now that it is gone it is gone.
If you don't see the fuse box under the dash in the driver leg area or beneath the radio check for a covered box under the hood. There should be a fuse spec guide on the lid of the box that tells you where specific wattage should go and for what purpose. But, your fuel pump problem will not be solved by a new fuse.
Posted on May 25, 2009
Hey Tim take a look at this, will this help ?
No Engine Crank Or No Engine Start Due To Electronic Lockup Of The WCM / SKREEM
This bulletin involves the replacement of the Wireless Control Module (WCM), and if
equipped, the replacement of the Electric Steering Column Lock (ELV). The WCM is also
referred to as the Sentry Key Remote Entry Module (SKREEM).
The customer will experience a no engine crank AND a no engine start condition. Also, the
remote keyless entry (RKE) system will not operate. This condition may be due to an
electrostatic discharge (ESD) from the ignition key into the Wireless Control Module
(WCM), causing the WCM to electronically lockup. This condition may occur more
frequently in dry and/or cold weather conditions where a sufficient electrostatic charge is
more easily produced. This condition is corrected by the replacement of the WCM
1. With the condition present (i.e. the vehicle in the no crank / no start condition), connect
the StarSCAN® scan tool to the vehicle.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the “ON” position, and power up the StarSCAN®.
3. If the WCM is electronically locked up, the StarSCAN® will display the WCM as being
4. If the no crank / no start condition is present, and the WCM is “off bus”, then reset the
WCM by temporarily removing the IOD fuse (with the key out of the ignition switch),
wait for 10 seconds and then reinstall the IOD fuse.
5. With the IOD fuse reset having been performed, verify that the vehicle will now crank,
start, and run.
6. If the condition is temporarily corrected by performing the above steps, and if the part
number of the WCM is earlier than the part number of the WCM listed in the part
reference table in the Service Bulletin Parts Required Section below, then perform the
Posted on Jun 24, 2009
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