Question about 2009 Dodge Caliber
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2002 dodge ram 2500 diesel
I'm no expert, but I am on my second Dodge. I have a 2004 Ram 2500, 125k miles on it. I traded in my 2001 1500 with 99k on it.
Your problem sounds like one of two things that happened to me. At 110k mi's it was not accelerating properly, particularly between 40 and 50 mph. It turned out my torque converter was going bad and I ignored it for too long and it's disintegrated pieces ruined my transmission. I recommend getting over to Aamco right away or to the dealer if you are still in warranty and have the TC checked out. The diesel is just too much torque for a torque converter on the automatic transmission, but manuals are too much of a pain these days. $2300 at Aamco to have the TC replaced and the tranny rebuilt.
The new problem I have now is when it acted like it was out of fuel and then wouldn't turn over after it died. My fuel lift pump (diesels have two of everything and the expensive one is always what goes) has gone bad and is currently being replaced, $700 part, plus another few hundred in labor.
Hope this helps.
Posted on Oct 28, 2008
I took my 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7L Hemi to a mechanic that works from a garage at his home, recommended by a friend of mine. He removed and cleaned the throttle body and sensor(s?), then reinstalled them, and then disconnected both battery cables and held them together for 2 minutes so that the engine controller could reboot with the factory default settings, then reconnected them. I had bought a can of throttle body cleaner on my way over to his house for about $3.00. He charged me $40.00 for the job. This was done mid-February, about 10 weeks and 2500 miles ago. So far, the problem Has Not happened again, the truck has been running great!
Posted on Apr 28, 2009
popohead, if people thought it was easy, they wouldn't be here asking. Your reply is useless.
To remove the pins, look a them closely. Notice that there's two little notches cut into the cup that holds the pin. Use a flathead on each side to leveredge them out a little. If that doesn't work at all, you can use a pair of pliers to firmly grip the head of the pin and pull straight out. Quick firm pull.
Once the first pin comes out, the second pin should easily come out. At that point, firmly grip your taillight housing, and pull straight back: Don't try to wiggle it out, and don't try to lift it to one side or the other like a trunk or door. Just pull it firmly straight back like you would a dresser drawer.
Once it's out, the little wiring harnesses come out of the taillight housing with about a 1/4 turn, and the bulbs just slide straight out of those.
Posted on Nov 01, 2009
Park the Dodge Caliber on a flat paved or concrete surface. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the side opposite the headlight you are replacing. In other words, if you are replacing the left headlight, turn the wheel all the way to the right. Apply the parking brake and release the hood latch.
Posted on Dec 28, 2009
This problem can sometimes occur due to dirt entering the throttle assembly. It can bring codes on relating to forced engine shutdown, which sounds dramatic at best. Normally a good cleaning of the throttle valve assembly cures this fault. It happens because the system fails to see throttle response or closure within parameters. This should be your first action to take, rather than spending money needlessly... Hope this helped?
Posted on Mar 12, 2011
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DTC P1516 Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) Module Throttle Actuator Position Performance
Your vehicle has an electronic throttle body unit so it uses voltage signals to control throttle blade in the throttle body. There are a few different issues that can cause this problem.
First off there is a update for the PCM to address those codes, but you will have to take it to the dealer for that.
Second there is issues with the actuator on the throttle body binding up and causing the codes.
Third there is a yellow wire coming off the throttle body connector that breaks inside internally and cannot be seen to the naked eye. The best way to test that is to grab the wire about 5 inches from the connector and tug if it feels spongy or breaks, that
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