Question about 2002 Chevrolet Tahoe
If it is worse when reving the engine in park, your AC compressor is failing (common problem). The AC compressor, orifice tube, accumulator, belt tensioner and AC belt will need to be replaced and the AC system flushed before recharging.
Posted on Oct 14, 2013
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I have worked on several vehicles with this same problem and each one was a relatively simple repair with no parts involved, first off the shift interlock has nothing to do with it and will not prevent your vehicle from going into park, it is designed to work ONLY when coming out of park. The problem your having depends on the type of shifter handle your vehicle has, if the release lever is on the bottom and you have to push up with your fingers to release it, then the problem is...there is a rubber type cover that surrounds the release button, after time it becomes distorted and bunches up preventing the shifter from fully engaging in the park position (even though it appears the vehicle is going into park)if your careful you can work the rubber cover out and your problem is fixed. If your shifter button is on the side and pressed with your thumb the cable needs to be adjusted, this cables only purpose is to prevent key removal except when in park and is easily adjusted, with the center council removed, if you look at the front of the shifter base you will see 2 cables that snap into the shifter frame, the larger one is the gear selector cable, the smaller one runs up to the steering column and operates the mechanism that prevents key removal, where the cable snaps into the shifter frame is where the adjustment is done and is identical to a kick-down cable used on older vehicles with automatic transmissions, right where it snaps into the frame there will be a button you can press down releasing a spring loaded adjustment arm, make sure you first mark the arm for reference then press down the button and adjust it a little either way until it functions properly, hope this helps and good luck
Posted on Jul 03, 2009
SOURCE: Squeak when making sharp turns
Hi there. the squeaking you hear is coming from the power steering belt.
Just tighten up the belt, but not to tight or you will do damage to the pulley on the pump and you don't want that.
I hope it as helped!!
Posted on Aug 17, 2009
The connectors tend to get dirt and debris in where the special tool slides in which prevents the little tabs from disengaging from the raised ring on the plastic pipe. Pull the line towards the pump as if you were trying to push it on even further and use compressed air to blow out any crud where the tool goes. Then insert the tool and push it in firmly while pulling the line toward the tool a bit to relieve the pressure on the little internal metal retaining clips and at that point with a little wiggling the line should come off. I've taken off dozens and they can be exasperating to say the least. IF all else fails and you are certain that you are going to replace the pump module and absolutely can not get the lines disconnected for the stubby plastic fittings on top of the old one then you could simply break off the plastic fittings on the old pump so you can work on getting the fittings disconnected once you have the tank out. I've had to do this a couple of times but it means that the old pump module can't be used again since the fittings would be broken off of it. Be extremely careful working around the tank as it will be full of gasoline fumes and extremely flammable!
Posted on Jun 11, 2010
Hi, this is a very common problem with these, first of all check the fuse box and have a look at each and every fuse related to the dash board or console controls, it will either tell you what each fuse is and where it is on the back of the lid for the fuse box or if you look inside the owners handbook it should list each and every fuse thats in their then just pull the ones for the console and dashboard and check if any have blown.
if you find one replace it and you should be ok
if how ever you dont find one then you are going to have one of two problems the first problem is the common fault and that is with the connection behind the dash, this connection over time vibrates loose only very slightly and it causes the problem you are now having, now without taking the whole dash or console out their isnt much you can do, if you give it a few wacks with the palm of your hand you may get it working again until you lose the connection again, most people just give it a few wacks each time it goes off then it comes back on the only way of fixing this problem long term is to remove the dash/console and undo and refit every connector thats behind their.
now the 2nd problem you could have is related to the one above, if the connection is loose and keeps losing the connection you may not of noticed this as it would of been a split second where it flashed on and off as the connection went back together, but whilst it was doing this it can cause the console tto short out and go off completely like yours has,
now to solve it if this is the case is to replace the whole electrnoic console its not easy to do and is very easy to get worng as their is a hell of a lot behind it, also just taking the casing off and putting it back on is a nightmare.
let me know how you get on or if you need further assistance ok
Posted on Feb 18, 2011
Tips for a great answer:
Nov 03, 2012 | Chevrolet Cars & Trucks
Jul 10, 2010 | 2003 Chevrolet Tahoe
May 29, 2010 | 2003 Ford Explorer
May 28, 2009 | 2003 Nissan Maxima
120 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!