I have a 1994 6.5 turbo diesel, motor has had alot of new GM items put on the motor including pump. I just had a trip of 3500 miles with ne pronlems after getting back it started acting up, it will run setting and running and finaly just stopping very quick and after sitting for a short time with running again. I changed the fuel filter and air after returning from the trip. Where should i look? I build streetrods and know the gas motors and have worked on the older diesels but not this one. streetrod

SOURCE: 1999 chevy silverado won't start.

You need to test the fuel pressure with a special gauge, the pressure should be greater then 35PSI. The Vortec set up has more to it but what you seem to be discribing is a faulty fuel pump. Im assuming that the fuel filter was changed too. But you need to have a special tool that will allow you to isolate the fuel flow from the tank to the engine. popular reasons for fuel system failiers are filter, pump, fuel pressure reg. valve(located underneath the plenum) and not common but maybe fuel pump relay.

SOURCE: 2.8 Diesel Pajero Cold start

Have replaced your glow plugs?They dont cost alot to replace,try this

SOURCE: 1992 Pace Arrow Motor Home 454 Chevy...not getting fuel to start

After you dump the fuel in the throttle body it will continue to run on its own or die as soon as it burns up all the fuel you dump in? Do you have access to (Noid lights)? Are both plugs attached to the distributor?

SOURCE: smoke is coming from the dipstick, 6.5L turbo diesel

Sounds like you have a clogged PCV valve thats the valve that lets the gases that get into the crankcase be rerouted back into the intake. It's silver about two inches and is usually in a rubber fitting in the valve cover and will have a hose on the other end. it's no tools installation just pull the hose off pull it out and replace with a new one. thats the first thing i'd do - 10 mins and 10 bucks should do it

SOURCE: 1994 Chevy 4 Dr. 2500 6.5 Diesel start and stall problem

1994 Chevy Truck K 2500 Suburban 4WD V8-393 6.5L DSL

Fuel Cut Solenoid: Testing and Inspection
An inoperative shutdown solenoid can cause a no-start condition. Disconnect solenoid harness connector and with ignition switch in the "ON"
position momentarily touch solenoid harness connector to solenoid connector. If a "click" sound is heard, the solenoid circuit is operating
properly. If "click" is not heard, the system should be diagnosed as follows:
1. With test lamp connected to ground and the ignition switch in the "ON" position, backprobe the shutdown harness connector. If the test lamp
does not light check for open circuit form the ignition switch to the solenoid.
2. If the test lamp lights, check the ground circuit between solenoid stud and injection pump cover to see if connectors are clean and tight. If the
connections are not clean and tight repair and retest.
3. If the ground circuit is "OK", remove the injection pump cover. Connect a jumper wire between solenoid ground connector and ground. With
the ignition switch in the "ON" position, momentarily touch shutdown solenoid harness connector to shutdown solenoid terminal. If solenoid
operates, check for internal injection pump problem.
4. If the solenoid will not operate, replace the shutdown solenoid.
_____________________________________
Fuel Cut Solenoid: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT:
1. Remove pump cover.
2. Terminal contact nuts.
3. Solenoid.
INSTALL OR CONNECT:
1. Solenoid in the pump cover.
- On the shutdown solenoid, make sure that the linkage is free.
- On the cold advance solenoid, make sure that the plunger is centered so that it will contact the check ball in the fitting.
2. Insulating washers on the terminal studs.
3. Terminal nuts and tighten to 1 Nm (9 in lbs).
4. Pump cover.
5. Inspect solenoid operation prior to installing the pump cover. Use a 12 volt DC power source.