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if its not a drive axle and only has a castle nut with a cotter pin , then regrease the wheel bearings and run nut all the way in to its hand wrench tight (not impact gun), turn wheel one or two full turns to seat it , then back castle nut off two spaces and install cotter pin , this s\is std way to set proper spacing on wheel bearings
if its a drive axle consult your cars model and make and year torque specs book
Determine which type of emergency brakes your Dodge Ram will need. Emergency brakes typically function by activating the regular braking system on the driving wheels. The emergency brakes for the Dodge Ram have used rear disc brakes since 2001.
Release the parking brake pedal completely and raise your vehicle. Remove the tire and wheel with a socket wrench and disconnect the brake caliper from the caliper adapter. Slide the rotor from the axle shaft.
Install the new brake rotor onto the axle shaft and complete the installation by reversing the removal steps.
Tighten the wheel mounting nuts in the proper sequence with a torque wrench until the nuts are torqued to 47.5 foot/pounds Repeat the tightening sequence to torque the nuts to 95 foot/pounds.
Apply and release the park brake pedal to seat and adjust the parking brake cables. Road test the vehicle to ensure the vehicle's brake system is functioning.
Place tool C-3919 or the equivalent over the park brake shoes and use the star wheel adjuster to lower the park brake shoes until the lining just touches the jaws on the tool.
If you actually need to torque your wheels, you first need to know what car you are referring to. They do have different size bolts. Unless your racing, tight is good enough, but if your not mechanical enough to know, take it in. If you get a flat tire, are you going to use a torque wrench? Go to Sam's club, they do it back words. They put it on with an air gun and then put the torque wrench on it. lol
Though I do not have the specific factory recommendation for this vehicle, I can tell you that 85 ft-lbs is the industry standard torque for all alloy wheels. No manufacturer will build a car that requires a significantly different torque because the tire shops would trash it.
The important thing is not that the lug nuts are at the correct torque to achieve a specific pressure (as with head bolts) or a specific degree of stretch (as with flywheel bolts) but rather that they all be the same, so that the force on the hub and brake rotor is uniform. The bolts just have to be tight enough so they don't come loose and the brake heat can transfer to the wheel, but not so tight that they damage the wheel. 85 ft-lbs uniform tension will get you where you want to be.
By the way, if you want to take good care of your hubs, brakes, and wheels, don't let anyone else touch them. The tire shop will tell you that they use their impact wrenches to snug the nuts only to 60 ft-lbs, then tighten the lugs the rest of the way with their torque wrenches. Stand outside their shop and watch them sometime. 90% of the time, they put their torque wrench on and don't get any more turn on the bolt before the wrench clicks. That means the nut is already tighter than 85 ft-lbs, and they have no idea how much tighter.
If there is a problem with the crankshaft sensor then when you attempt to start it the ecm cannot confirm when number one cylinder is on top-dead-center thus not activate the 'open loop' part of the engine controller. I think the reason that it was running fine then would not start was because the only time the crankshaft sensor is used is when starting, not after while in closed loop.
Your front brakes rotors are whorped Hope thats how you spell It LOL Bent . Usually when the steering wheel Shimmies When applying the Brakes its the Front Brakes and when you feel It in your Brake Pedal shimmies thats is usually the Rear brakes. I sure hope that gets you fixed up.