Injectors not spraying fuel and no spark

This sounds like the crank shaft sensor is bad. The sensor sends a signal to the computer about when to fire the coils for spark.

You can confirm each injector is actually working. Get a momentary switch, 2 feet of wire and some spade terminals (or whatever your connectors take). Disconnect the plug that connects to your injectors. Determine which injectors are controlled by which 2 wires. Connect 1 wire to the Positive 12V side of battery, then to one terminal on your switch. Connect a second wire from the other terminal of the switch to one of the two terminals of the injector you are testing, then connect a wire from the second terminal of the injector to any good ground on the car, or back to the Negative 12V on the battery. With the engine off, push the momentary switch on and off you should hear the injector clicking. If you hear the clicking that injector is working. Repeat the procedure for all other injectors. To avoid and shorting issues the wire going to the positive side of the battery should be connected last, and make sure no part of the wiring on the positive side touches any metal during this entire procedure.Disconnect the positive wire after each test to avoid any accidents.

Check ignition coil if it gets power on positive terminal

check ur crank positing sensor

Did you check fuel pressure with a gauge? Autozone, some others, rent or loan fuel pressure gauges. If fuel pressure is good, check injector circuit. Each injector has two wires-power and ground. With key on- engine off, each injector should have battery voltage on the power wire (each power wire would be same color to all injectors)-use a test light or voltmeter to check for power.

If injectors have power to them with key on, post back and I can tell you how to check injector ground circuit with a test light. .... well here, you clip the test light lead on the POSITIVE battery post, and stick tester probe into the ground side terminal of injector connector. Now have someone crank the engine over: if ground circuit is good, the test light should be blinking. If both tests work, power and ground circuit, then injector circuit is good and they should be pulsing to spray fuel into the cylinders. Let me know what you find.

Are you sure it's not the fuel pump? I would be checking fuel pressure-the injectors need fuel under high pressure against them so they will spray out when pulsed.
What year is your Isuzu, and what size engine? Multiport injection has a higher pressure requirement than throttle body injection.
There should be a fuse for the injectors, check that. With key on, not start, the injectors would have power to them on the "injector drive circuit". In other words, constant power is supplied to the injectors when the key is on. The other wire at an injector is the ground wire. The ground wire goes into the engine computer. When the computer internally grounds the injector wire for a split second, the injector is energized and fuel is able to spray out.
Post back if you need help checking the injector circuit-both the power side and the ground side. You can check both with a test light.

Well, here it is anyway: ground a test light and probe the injector connector. With key on, one terminal should be hot-the drive circuit. Now move the test light lead to the POSITIVE battery post, and stick the test light probe into the injector terminal that did not light the test light-the ground terminal. Now have someone crank the engine over. If ground circuit is working, the test light should be blinking-meaning the computer is properly grounding the injector circuit. If both tests are good-a steady light on the power side (key on) and a blinking light on the ground side (engine cranking), the injector circuit is good.

Code 306 means cylinder 6 is not producing power. And as you know it takes fuel, spark, and compression at the right time to make power.
Generally, if the injector is firing at the right time the spark plug should be firing as well.
Are you sure the plug is firing ? And is it possible injector 6 has no fuel to spray ?

Try this tips:
1. Check the battery voltage at the battery with the digital volt/ohm meter. Set the meter to "Volts D/C" and touch the black meter lead to the negative battery post and the red meter lead to the positive post. A fully charged battery will measure 12.7 volts or more. A measurement of 12.5 volts is considered discharged, and the battery should be charged before any further testing. Any measurement below 11 volts indicates a severely discharged battery--the battery is most likely damaged and should be replaced. If the battery measures above 12.7 volts, proceed to the next step.

2. Check the starter for battery voltage by touching the red (positive) meter lead to the battery cable terminal on the back of the starter and the black (negative) lead to the chassis. The voltage reading should be approximately the same as the measurement at the battery. If the reading is lower than battery voltage, check for bad connections at the cables on the battery and the starter or ground cable.

Check for ignition switch signal at the purple wire on the back of the starter. When the key is turned to the "Start" position this wire should measure battery voltage. If the reading is less than battery voltage, or zero volts, check the fusible links (orange wires) on the back of the starter. If the fusible links are intact and not burned or broken, replace the ignition switch. If battery voltage is present at the purple wire, and the starter doesn't turn, replace the starter. If the voltage measurements at the starter are correct, and the starter cranks the engine over when the key is turned to the start position, proceed to the next step.

3. Remove the air duct attached to the throttle body, and spray a liberal amount of the carburetor spray into the throttle body. Replace the hose, and try to start the engine. If the engine starts, the fuel pump is not supplying fuel or the ignition module is not pulsing the injectors. Check the fuel pump fuse located in the under-hood fuse block. If it is good, check for power at the fuel pump electrical connector located near the rear of the fuel tank on the driver's side of the van. In the Chevy Astro van, power is supplied to the fuel pump by the the gray wire on the electrical connector when the engine is being cranked. If power is supplied, hitting the fuel tank with the flat side of a hammer while someone else is turning the ignition key to start will sometimes bump the fuel pump enough to allow it to start. If the fuel pump checks good, proceed to the next step.

4. Check for spark. Disconnect the coil wire at the ignition coil, and try to start the engine. If no spark occurs, replace the coil and ignition module. If a strong spark occurs, plug the wire back in, and remove a spark plug wire from a spark plug and repeat the test. If a spark is not present, replace the spark plug wires, and distributor cap and rotor.


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You said you checked the fuses,relays and coils and they were okey. Then you said no power to coils or fuel pump. What tests where performed and how?

1 Inspect Battery Damaged or faulty battery and/or connections. here is a list of things u can check hope this helps Shaun 2 Inspect Coil - Ignition Damaged or faulty ignition coil or ignition coil circuit. 3 Inspect Fuel Filter Clogged or dirty fuel filter 4 Inspect Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator Faulty fuel injector pressure regulator or circuit. 5 Inspect Fuel Pump Improperly functioning fuel pump or circuits. 6 Inspect Wireset Damaged, worn, or deteriorating spark plug or coil wire(s). 7 Inspect Control Module-Ignition Faulty ignition control module or circuit. 8 Inspect Solenoid Switch Damaged or faulty solenoid switch or solenoid switch circuit. 9 Inspect Starter Damaged, worn, defective, or faulty starter or starter related circuit. 10 Inspect Neutral Safety Switch Damaged or faulty neutral safety swittch or circuit. 11 Inspect Fuse Corroded, burned, or shorted fuse may be interupting power source. 12 Inspect Fusible Link Corroded, burned, or shorted fusible link may be interupting power source. 13 Inspect Battery Cable Corroded, broken or poorly connected battery cable. 14 Inspect Spark Plug Wire Loom - Performance Improperly adjusted or worn/malfunctioning carburetor. 15 Inspect Distributor Cap Loose or cracked distributor cap 16 Inspect Distributor Cap And Rotor Kit Loose, cracked, or worn distributor cap and ignition rotor. 17 Inspect Fuel System Pressure Incorrect fuel pressure being delivered to carburetor or fuel injection system. 18 Inspect Fuel Injector Plugged, dirty or poorly connected fuel injector. 19 Inspect Ignition Switch Worn, damaged or faulty ignition switch or circuit. 20 Inspect Spark Plug Fouled, damaged or broken spark plug(s). 21 Inspect Belt Incorrectly routed, adjusted(tensioned), missing or worn drive belt(s). 22 Inspect Timing Belt Slipped or broken timing belt. 23 Inspect Timing Set Slipped timing chain or worn timing gear(s). 24 Inspect Fuel Tank Contaminated fuel from rusted or deteriorated fuel tank. 25 Inspect Ignition Timing Incorrectly adjusted engine timing.