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Injectors not spraying fuel and no spark

I can wire the positive terminal from the battery to the coil and have power but no feul injectors not firing

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  • Bernhard Flug Oct 14, 2013

    thanks for the response my next check would be crank sensor, with out a firing sensor no spark.

  • christopher nelson
    christopher nelson Oct 15, 2013

    ill have to check that today after i get out of school

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  • 9 Answers

Check your auto shutdown relay the ground is a common factor on electrical problems, you can check your coil, but i have found that there is no way i have found to properly check it under load. so i say first things first, take the relay out check the blades for corrosion they make cleaners for electrical connections use this do not sand paper or wire brush, Lubricants electrostatic with anti-corrosion metal surface protection than the same with the ground, start there.

Posted on Oct 14, 2013

Testimonial: "i have done all of that i even replaced the realy and replaced the coil but i still have no power to the coil to the dist. but the rotor button does rotate when i turn the truck over. and im not getting the pulse to the injectors it like the coputer is not giving the signal to tell anything what to do// im lost"

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

bigg t
  • 640 Answers

SOURCE: fuel injector not spraying fuel

Check the fuel pump relay in a black box under the hood.

Posted on Jul 23, 2008

  • 99 Answers

SOURCE: Fuel Injector Wont Spray

check wires at throttle body. can use a 12 volt test light to check for current. if you have spark it is not the ign module. set meter for 12-20volts. should have 2 fuse boxes on this model, one behind right side of dash at floorboard

Posted on Nov 30, 2008

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: wont start has fuel and has spark

RC ralston
Your problem is a leak in the cpi pletium most likely the pressure line has a leak
had same problem with mine $45.00 PRESSURE LINE KIT AND $15.00 GASKET FOR PLETIUM and 2 hours labor problem sovled.
You can remove vortec cover and remove air regulator to look inside pletium. I had gas vapor on driver side . that is where fuel lines are. fuel regulator is on passenger side. turn key on and look in hole and see where fuel is spraying. taking pletium off you can again turn key on and make sure where fuel is coming from.

Posted on Feb 06, 2009

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: 1994 f150 no fire to coil or fuel pump

i got a 1994 f150 that starts but cuts right back off so i had no fuel psi so i put a new fuel pump and fillter then found out that it was not getting power to the pump the cut off is not triped and no brakes in the wires can anyone help??

Posted on Sep 10, 2009

  • 834 Answers

SOURCE: Truck will turn over but not start. Checked fuel

The ignition module located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil. A faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

Posted on Jun 22, 2010

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Engine turns over but wont start. You can hear thr fuel pump come on. Is it electrical? Could it be battery, fuse, or loose wire?


This sounds like the crank shaft sensor is bad. The sensor sends a signal to the computer about when to fire the coils for spark.

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You can confirm each injector is actually working. Get a momentary switch, 2 feet of wire and some spade terminals (or whatever your connectors take). Disconnect the plug that connects to your injectors. Determine which injectors are controlled by which 2 wires. Connect 1 wire to the Positive 12V side of battery, then to one terminal on your switch. Connect a second wire from the other terminal of the switch to one of the two terminals of the injector you are testing, then connect a wire from the second terminal of the injector to any good ground on the car, or back to the Negative 12V on the battery. With the engine off, push the momentary switch on and off you should hear the injector clicking. If you hear the clicking that injector is working. Repeat the procedure for all other injectors. To avoid and shorting issues the wire going to the positive side of the battery should be connected last, and make sure no part of the wiring on the positive side touches any metal during this entire procedure.Disconnect the positive wire after each test to avoid any accidents.

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Did you check fuel pressure with a gauge? Autozone, some others, rent or loan fuel pressure gauges. If fuel pressure is good, check injector circuit. Each injector has two wires-power and ground. With key on- engine off, each injector should have battery voltage on the power wire (each power wire would be same color to all injectors)-use a test light or voltmeter to check for power.

If injectors have power to them with key on, post back and I can tell you how to check injector ground circuit with a test light. .... well here, you clip the test light lead on the POSITIVE battery post, and stick tester probe into the ground side terminal of injector connector. Now have someone crank the engine over: if ground circuit is good, the test light should be blinking. If both tests work, power and ground circuit, then injector circuit is good and they should be pulsing to spray fuel into the cylinders. Let me know what you find.

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Code 306 means cylinder 6 is not producing power. And as you know it takes fuel, spark, and compression at the right time to make power.
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Are you sure the plug is firing ? And is it possible injector 6 has no fuel to spray ?

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Try this tips:
1. Check the battery voltage at the battery with the digital volt/ohm meter. Set the meter to "Volts D/C" and touch the black meter lead to the negative battery post and the red meter lead to the positive post. A fully charged battery will measure 12.7 volts or more. A measurement of 12.5 volts is considered discharged, and the battery should be charged before any further testing. Any measurement below 11 volts indicates a severely discharged battery--the battery is most likely damaged and should be replaced. If the battery measures above 12.7 volts, proceed to the next step.

2. Check the starter for battery voltage by touching the red (positive) meter lead to the battery cable terminal on the back of the starter and the black (negative) lead to the chassis. The voltage reading should be approximately the same as the measurement at the battery. If the reading is lower than battery voltage, check for bad connections at the cables on the battery and the starter or ground cable.

Check for ignition switch signal at the purple wire on the back of the starter. When the key is turned to the "Start" position this wire should measure battery voltage. If the reading is less than battery voltage, or zero volts, check the fusible links (orange wires) on the back of the starter. If the fusible links are intact and not burned or broken, replace the ignition switch. If battery voltage is present at the purple wire, and the starter doesn't turn, replace the starter. If the voltage measurements at the starter are correct, and the starter cranks the engine over when the key is turned to the start position, proceed to the next step.

3. Remove the air duct attached to the throttle body, and spray a liberal amount of the carburetor spray into the throttle body. Replace the hose, and try to start the engine. If the engine starts, the fuel pump is not supplying fuel or the ignition module is not pulsing the injectors. Check the fuel pump fuse located in the under-hood fuse block. If it is good, check for power at the fuel pump electrical connector located near the rear of the fuel tank on the driver's side of the van. In the Chevy Astro van, power is supplied to the fuel pump by the the gray wire on the electrical connector when the engine is being cranked. If power is supplied, hitting the fuel tank with the flat side of a hammer while someone else is turning the ignition key to start will sometimes bump the fuel pump enough to allow it to start. If the fuel pump checks good, proceed to the next step.

4. Check for spark. Disconnect the coil wire at the ignition coil, and try to start the engine. If no spark occurs, replace the coil and ignition module. If a strong spark occurs, plug the wire back in, and remove a spark plug wire from a spark plug and repeat the test. If a spark is not present, replace the spark plug wires, and distributor cap and rotor.


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1 Inspect Battery Damaged or faulty battery and/or connections. here is a list of things u can check hope this helps Shaun 2 Inspect Coil - Ignition Damaged or faulty ignition coil or ignition coil circuit. grey_line.gif 3 Inspect Fuel Filter Clogged or dirty fuel filter grey_line.gif 4 Inspect Fuel Injector Pressure Regulator Faulty fuel injector pressure regulator or circuit. grey_line.gif 5 Inspect Fuel Pump Improperly functioning fuel pump or circuits. grey_line.gif 6 Inspect Wireset Damaged, worn, or deteriorating spark plug or coil wire(s). grey_line.gif 7 Inspect Control Module-Ignition Faulty ignition control module or circuit. grey_line.gif 8 Inspect Solenoid Switch Damaged or faulty solenoid switch or solenoid switch circuit. grey_line.gif 9 Inspect Starter Damaged, worn, defective, or faulty starter or starter related circuit. grey_line.gif 10 Inspect Neutral Safety Switch Damaged or faulty neutral safety swittch or circuit. grey_line.gif 11 Inspect Fuse Corroded, burned, or shorted fuse may be interupting power source. grey_line.gif 12 Inspect Fusible Link Corroded, burned, or shorted fusible link may be interupting power source. grey_line.gif 13 Inspect Battery Cable Corroded, broken or poorly connected battery cable. grey_line.gif 14 Inspect Spark Plug Wire Loom - Performance Improperly adjusted or worn/malfunctioning carburetor. grey_line.gif 15 Inspect Distributor Cap Loose or cracked distributor cap grey_line.gif 16 Inspect Distributor Cap And Rotor Kit Loose, cracked, or worn distributor cap and ignition rotor. grey_line.gif 17 Inspect Fuel System Pressure Incorrect fuel pressure being delivered to carburetor or fuel injection system. grey_line.gif 18 Inspect Fuel Injector Plugged, dirty or poorly connected fuel injector. grey_line.gif 19 Inspect Ignition Switch Worn, damaged or faulty ignition switch or circuit. grey_line.gif 20 Inspect Spark Plug Fouled, damaged or broken spark plug(s). grey_line.gif 21 Inspect Belt Incorrectly routed, adjusted(tensioned), missing or worn drive belt(s). grey_line.gif 22 Inspect Timing Belt Slipped or broken timing belt. grey_line.gif 23 Inspect Timing Set Slipped timing chain or worn timing gear(s). grey_line.gif 24 Inspect Fuel Tank Contaminated fuel from rusted or deteriorated fuel tank. grey_line.gif 25 Inspect Ignition Timing Incorrectly adjusted engine timing. grey_line.gif

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