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I have had my 350z for only a week..I come out in the morning the last few days and see my clutch pedal is low..I have to pump it and warm it up before able to drive it, it then raises about to an inch in line with the brake pedal...Is this hydrualic or something serious?..thanks

Posted by Anonymous on

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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freetek
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SOURCE: soft clutch 1992 isuzu rodeo

If the seals around the shafts of master and slave are tight, they may be concealing a leak with fluid bypassing the piston seals internal to the two assemblies. Either your master or slave cylinders need to be replaced ot have new seals installed. Once you find the culprit and have installed a replacement, you will have to bleed the lines to evacuate air trap in the lines.

Posted on Mar 21, 2009

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SOURCE: clutch slipping on 2004 350z roadster

This is a Hydrolic System ,thus there is no Adjustment for what you discribe, You will need a New Clutch Assemble. I Recomend replacing ALL Clutch Parts while Trans is out. Uncluding All the Parts Listed Reliece Bearing, Clutch Disc, Pressure plate,And Renew Slave Cylinder FLUID.

Posted on Jan 24, 2009

  • 113 Answers

SOURCE: Brake Pedal goes to the floor in my 1990 Chevy C1500 Scottsdale

do you have a self bleeder kit? first off, you have to bleed the master cyl back into its self and the combination valve before you go to the wheels. when you do that, I think you will find that you have air in the lines. disconnect both brake lines from the master cyl and put the bleeder kit fittings on the master cyl, then put the rubber tubing with the kit on the fittings and submerge it in the brake reservoir. make sure its full. then pump the pedal until you get a hard pedal. if that is the case, reconnect the lines to the master, then have an assistant pump up the brake pedal with the engine off, and bleed the combination valve which should be connected to the master by steel tubing. pump it up, then hold it down, and crack the fittings loose, one at a time until the pedal goes about half way down, but do not release the brake pedal until the line is tight again, otherwise you will **** air in the lines. after you do all that, go to the farthest caliper or wheel cylynder from the master and bleed that with the same technique,and dont release the pedal until you close the bleeder screw. unless you have a major prob, this will work.

Posted on Jul 20, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Spongy brake pedal

I have a 2001 Chevy 1500 4 X 4 that recently had all new pads, rotors, and calipers installed. Since then my brake pedal goes almost to the floor before I get any brakes. I took it back to the shop and they bled the brakes with no better results. I bled them also with no results. I took the truck back and they installed a master cylinder with no results. It's now at the Chevy dealer and they say it's normal - BS! I had good brakes before I had all of the brake parts replaced, no one can figure it out. If you have a load in the truck or if you tow anything you better be looking at the ditch to avoid an accident. The original brakes would put you nose into the windshield and now I could stop it better the Fred Flinstone way. Anyone have an answer????????

Posted on Nov 17, 2012

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