Question about Cars & Trucks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Average time should be around 2-3 hours. Every shop charges different hourly rates. Dealerships will be around at least 80 an hour, smaller shops will run lower.
Posted on Jan 05, 2009
firstly remove the wheel trim and undoo the big nut on the end of the drive shaft,Then jack up and remove wheel and put stand under body remove the lower track control arm pinch bolt from lower suspension .remove brake caliper separate the lower arm from the bottom of the strut then push the drive shaft through the hub assembly and its clear .cut off old boot and look for the circlip that hold the end on which should be in the centre if the unit in a recess to allow access to the ends of the clip .You shouldnt need to remove the whole shaft just spread the clip and tap with a copper hammer.wash the thing out with diesel and take the balls out and give it a good clean ,rebuild and pack with grease slide the new rubber down the drive shaft ,refit the end but dot hit the threasded bit with a hammer put a block of wood their first then tap it on.Refit the suspension and away you go
Posted on Mar 14, 2009
Hi there. You really need to replace the whole cv saft on the side that is noisy. Changing just the joint is possible but requires pulling the shaft anyway and is not very probable since the cost and extra labor are as much as buying a new shaft. In either case you will pull your front wheel and brake assembley off the culprit side. Once this is done, you will need to seperate the lower controlarm from the hub via the lower ball joint. This can be done with prybars, but its hard and you will probably rip the rubber boot on the balljoint so its best to use a balljoint press available in many autoparts stores rent-a-tool programs. Once the ball joint is removed you should be able to pull the hub assembley out tword you enough to remove the cv shaft splines from the hub. If you do not have enough room, you may need to seperate the tie rod end as well. You can use the ball joint press for this as well. Once the splined end of the shaft is free of the hub, take a pry bar and find a place on the other end of the shaft where you can pry it out away from the transmission. Sometimes this requires giving it a quick **** to pop it out but there are no bolts or anything holding it. Do becareful not to put the prybar against any breakable components. Once shes out put your new one in the trans and shove it until it clicks in. Put the outer end into the hub before reconnecting the ball joint other wise your not likley to get it in and will have to seperate the joint again. After that you just put ypur brakes and stuff together and you are good to go.
Posted on Mar 17, 2009
SOURCE: replacing CV Joints
Yes you can remove the drive shaft by unbolting the bottom ball joint,then removing the nut that holds the shaft in the hub I would'nt recommend trying to replace just the CV joint as this can be a very complicated procedure involving specialized tools and more than just general mechanical skill,this isn't true of all,as some CV's come apart fairly easily.If the joint is bad you should probably just replace the axle.Remember to match mark any adjustable parts you may have to disassemble,and when you reassemble make sure to check the splines of the shaft and the drive hub,remove any foreign material and carefully file or sand any burs or scratches,any of these can cause the spline to bind on reassembly and possibly cause irreparable damage to one or both parts.Good luck hope this helps.
Posted on Apr 10, 2009
This is a simple job that is why it is not very detailed in your book. Nothing special. Do one side at a time so you have a reference to how to reassemble it. Remove your tire , brake calipers be sure not to stress the rubber brake lines or open the brake lines to air. Remove both upper and lower ball joints. When taking out the ball joints remove the cotter pin and bolt and beat the **** out of the joint for it to release. Then the C/V axles will come right out with a bit out encouragement. You will need a few tools wrenches pry bar hammer. I would buy a Chilton's or a Haynes repair manual for torque specs for reassembly. Good luck and take your time. And unless the axles are making noise you can just replace the rubber boots. Which is alot cheaper.
Posted on Jun 01, 2009
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