Question about Chevrolet TrailBlazer

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Bad fuel pump symptoms

Just changed battery in 2003 trailblzer. immediately upon re-starting, there is a loud clicking noise behind 3rd row seat passenger side panel...??auto parts guy thinks its a fuel pump issue; possibly related to electrical system when battery died

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That clicking is one of the actuators for the rear HVAC system. They sometimes fail or get stuck when there is a loss of power.

Posted on Mar 25, 2014


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


SOURCE: 1998 Cabriolet 2.8 electrical noise

Hi tkw222,

Have you checked the operating motor for the soft top?....It sounds very much like you may have a relay problem with the cut off control for that motor....have a good look and make sure that there's nothing fouling the operation of the unit...

The pump is probably an immersible type, which will then be mounted inside the tank....If it external, it still carries the fuel..... I would hope that you don't have a problem with that, as if it is working under high load, it would be over heating and that could be very dangerous..... Have it checked very quickly.... Once you're satisfied that it is NOT the pump....Take a friend with you and ask for that person to listen for the direction that the sound is emitted.....Also carry a rubber pipe and using it, your friend will be able to pinpoint the noise.... Once you know the place, you'll be able to identify the defective unit and take the relevant action.

Regards Johngee10

Posted on Sep 17, 2008

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SOURCE: clicking noise behind right side second row seat

I had the same problem. There are two regulators and the one that determines air direction is broken. The door inside is hung up and it strips the gears in the regulator. You can leave all the seats in the car but you have to remove several panels on the inside to get to the regulator. Many or them pry off. This can be risky if you are not careful and you may decide you don't want to risk it. Others need bolts removed (around the seatbelts) to remove. If you get to that point you will find two regulators that are white in color. They are anchored by 4 screws (i think) and come right out. Determine you have the proper one by toggling the face/floor button. You can follow the noise. The real problem here is with the door that hangs up. Mine hung up because the whole assembly was anchored against a big wiring harness on the back side that cracked the whole casing. Bad engineering. You may have to remove some sharp cracked pieces so the door moves easily. Problem is that you now will have a hole in your AC/Heating unit. You can replace that as well (expensive) or seal it some other way. By the new regulator from Ford and reassemble and you're done. If you are handy it should take you a couple of hours. My bro had the same problem on his Explorer and we fixed it much quicker the second time around. If you are not handy, you might want to reconsider.

Posted on Feb 01, 2009

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SOURCE: 98 astro van starts and dies immediately. Spark

redbeard00 could be on the right aftermarket security system or a passlock bypass,( for a remote starter), would have to be reprogrammed to match any new passlock learned settings. Just experienced this myself,( previous owner had a bypass installed and I didn't know about it untill digging around in the underdash wiring looking for a convenient place to test the signal coming from the keylock tumbler. simply removing it did the trick)!!

Posted on May 30, 2009

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SOURCE: Air Conditioner blows hot on one side after battery DC

You need to replace the driver side temperature door control actuator. While doing this... make sure you bolt the new one in AND THEN PLUG IT IN or it will spin and not line up in the right place... then there is a series of crazy steps to fix that problem.

Posted on Jun 27, 2009

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SOURCE: car started and died immediately. ether started


Posted on Nov 18, 2009

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