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2003 club car golf cart won't accelerate all the way... only goes at 3/4 of full speed.. batteries are all good

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 166 Answers

SOURCE: Electric Golf cart only shutters and inches forward

so many possibilities...

does it roll fairly freely? (checking to see if the brakes or rearend seized up)

Are there any "bad" sounds like things grinding? (Connection between Motor and rearend, axle splines...)

If all that is solid, it is likely in the controller.... (it takes a solid charge right... No bad batteries in there or loose connection? might want to check all the battery connections to make sure none are burnt...)

1997.. does it have the electonic speed control by that year? the other possibilty is that the accelerator is not working corectly. they used a resistor system on old ones that has contactors that would get worn out.... Newer ones control a potentiometer(sp) that controlled the speed.

Only a few real components to check, but if you are not mechanically and electically inclined, could be tough to isolate.

peace,

Posted on Mar 07, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: club car golf cart won't start.

i have a 1989 club car 10 amp fuse is under seat in a box under air box should have one screw in center of lid

Posted on Mar 30, 2010

  • 34 Answers

SOURCE: club car golf cart intermittent no spark

What you have is a bad ignitor. It is a small part located behind the RPM limiter. Getting to it is a little tricky but I will try to explain. On the front of the motor, you will find 2 10mm bolts holding a black object that is the RPM limiter. Take these two bolts out and you will find the silver part behind the black box. It will have one wire running to it. The reason it is intermittent, is that heat from the engine builds up and the heat causes it to be bad. When it cools down, it will go to running again. The part runs about $50-$70 . Replace and make sure the connection fits snugly and that the wire that was under one of the bolts goes back on.

Posted on Apr 22, 2010

  • 34 Answers

SOURCE: the electric motor comes on but the engine does

Is the motor turning? Only one fuse and the starter will not turn if it is bad. If the motor is not turning, make sure the belt is not slipping. If it is not slipping, make sure the engine will turn by hand. MAKE SURE KEY IS OFF BEFORE YOU PUT YOUR HANDS IN. If it seems free, you either have a weak battery or the brushes in the starter have worn out. I change at least 20 sets of brushes a year on Club Cars.

Posted on Apr 22, 2010

skychief2001
  • 21873 Answers

SOURCE: I have an ezgo electric golf cart and I have now replaced the 60 amp link fuse that connects to the battery and black wire. When driving the golf cart just quits and when checking the fuse is blow. Th

This is not a car question, but generally speaking a fuse blows when the current in the circuit exceeds the limit of the fuse.
I would look at the amp draw of the motor if that is what runs on that circuit and also the connections. It could be that the motor brushes are wearing out and the motor is pulling too much current.
I'm somewhat lost on your description - - you say it is a 60amp fuseable link but you bought 20 amp fuses. Are you dealing with two different circuits ?

Posted on Jul 24, 2012

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Electric Golf cart only shutters and inches forward


so many possibilities...

does it roll fairly freely? (checking to see if the brakes or rearend seized up)

Are there any "bad" sounds like things grinding? (Connection between Motor and rearend, axle splines...)

If all that is solid, it is likely in the controller.... (it takes a solid charge right... No bad batteries in there or loose connection? might want to check all the battery connections to make sure none are burnt...)

1997.. does it have the electonic speed control by that year? the other possibilty is that the accelerator is not working corectly. they used a resistor system on old ones that has contactors that would get worn out.... Newer ones control a potentiometer(sp) that controlled the speed.

Only a few real components to check, but if you are not mechanically and electically inclined, could be tough to isolate.

peace,

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