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I have a 98 Honda accord 4 cyl vtec motor thats making a whining noise from where the belts and pulleys are thought it might be the tension pulley gone bad but this model doesn't have one what could be the problem

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  • Expert
  • 54 Answers

Could b a bearing going out on something take belt off an spin every pulley to make sure they spin freely

Posted on Oct 13, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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limotec
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SOURCE: Whining noise from engine

Hello
altho new you may have a whining water pump or tensioner or it may be over tensioned.

take a long screw driver & place in on the timing cover to try to here where the noise is coming from, this should help you find the proplem with the car
Regards Paul
www.limotec.co.uk

Posted on Jan 11, 2009

  • 62 Answers

SOURCE: change serpentine belt and tension pulley and idle pulley and

could be the alternator, water pump
take the belt and spin all the pulleys and listen for noise and make sure they turn smoothly
another trick is to take a can of wd40 or equivalent and spray the bearings 1 at a time till the noise goes away or quiets down

Posted on May 16, 2009

  • 186 Answers

SOURCE: whining noise after water pump installation

If it's a 2.2 there is a special tool that holds chain while servicing the H2O pump.If you didn't have it the chain slipped & is now too tight causing the whine.You will need to take everthing apart.I woulr recommend replacing the chain & all guides(kit) Hope this helps

Posted on May 27, 2009

  • 73 Answers

SOURCE: Loud whining noise

does the wining get louder when you turn the steering wheel,if so it is the power steering pump.

Posted on Jun 11, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: motor mounts and pulley tensioner

I was wondering how do you take off the front transmission mount on a 1997 buick park avenue

Posted on Jul 29, 2009

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1 Answer

Why is my car making whining noise by belts and pully


One of the accessory bearings could be going out
(I.E.-alternator,water pump,etc)If the noise is near an idler or tensioner pulley,it could also have a bad bearing.The best thing to do is remove the serpentine belt or release the tensioner pulley so the belt is loose,then you can spin each accessory pulley by hand and listen for the noise.You'll also feel the pulley dragging while you spin it and it might have a ratchety feel to it(in other words,as you're rotating the pulley you'll feel it spin somewhat freely and then it will feel as if its catching on something) If the belt itself is bad,it usually makes a squealing or chirping sound.If your vehicle has a vbelt drive with multiple belts,check the pullies the same way as described above and make sure the belts are all tight.A loose belt normally causes a squealing noise rather than a whining noise.Check your power steering fluid level too because the pump will whine if it gets low on fluid.

Oct 11, 2015 | 2000 Ford Taurus

2 Answers

Engine makes whining sound


Take the belt off and spin all of the pulleys. the bad component should be obvious. high pitch whine is usually alternator bearing for the 98 3800 its timkin part# 100ccab or it can be the power steering pump(but the pitch will change as your steering if it is that) water pump, idler and tensioner pulleys(if you have to change either one, replace the tensioner itself). if you have the supercharged model there are a few parts that can whine( or the s/c is low on oil.)

Apr 15, 2012 | 1998 Buick Park Avenue

1 Answer

Were is the crank position sensor located on a 98 accord lx 2.2 motor?


There is no 2.2L motor in a 1998 Honda Accord.
The Crankshaft Position Sensor for the 2.3L 4-Cyl. engine is located behind the crankshaft pulley on the oil pump assembly.

May 10, 2011 | 1998 Honda Accord

1 Answer

The Haynes manual I have has TWO pages ripped out I have to replace the timing belt can you help me


from autozone.com:
1990-95 4-Cylinder Accord and 1992-95 Prelude
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Turn the engine to align the timing marks and set cylinder No. 1 to TDC on the compression stroke. Once in this position, the engine must NOT be turned or disturbed. On DOHC Preludes without VTEC, hold each of the camshafts in the TDC position by inserting 5mm diameter punches into the alignment holes just behind each cam pulley.
  3. Remove the splash shield from below the engine.
  4. Drain the engine coolant. Use a clean container; cap or cover the container and wipe up spillage.
  5. Unplug the electrical connector at the cruise control actuator, then remove the actuator. Don't disconnect the cable; simply move the actuator out of the work area.
  6. Remove the belt from the power steering pump. Remove the mounting bolts for the pump. Without disconnecting the hoses, move the pump out of the way.
  7. Unplug the alternator wiring and connectors; remove the engine wiring harness from the valve cover.
  8. Loosen the adjusting and mounting bolts for the alternator and/or compressor. Remove the drive belt(s).
  9. Remove the valve cover.
  10. Remove the side engine mount support bracket, if equipped.
  11. Remove the upper timing belt cover.
  12. Support the engine with a floor jack on the oil pan (use a cushion between the jack and pan). Tension the jack so that it is just supporting the engine but not lifting it.
  13. Remove the side engine mount.
  14. Remove the dipstick and dipstick tube.
  15. Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and remove the crankshaft pulley.
This bolt is one of the tightest on the entire car. The pulley must be held in place while the bolt is loosened. One trick is to wrap an old drive belt around the pulley to hold it steady-don't try this with a belt that is to go back on the car; it will be stretched or damaged.
  1. If necessary for additional clearance to remove the lower timing belt cover, remove the two rear bolts from the center beam. Slowly lower the jack and the engine until the clearance is gained.
  2. Remove the rubber seal from around the belt tension adjusting nut (do not loosen the nut). Remove the lower timing belt cover.
  3. On all models except Prelude with VTEC, lock the timing belt adjuster arm in place using one of the lower cover (6 x 1mm) mounting bolts.
88d9a40.gif

Fig. 10: On all engines except VTEC, the belt adjuster arm must be locked in place using one of the lower cover mounting bolts
There are two belts in this system; the one running to the camshaft pulley is the timing belt. The other, shorter one drives the balance shaft and is referred to as the balancer belt or timing balancer belt. Use a piece of chalk or a marker to place an identifying arrow on the belts. The arrow can identify the direction of rotation or the outer edge of the belts. The belts must be reinstalled so it moves in the same direction. Protect the belts from oil, coolant, etc. It's an even better idea to replace the belts at this point.

  1. Loosen the timing belt adjustment nut. Push on the tensioner to relieve tension from the balancer belt, then tighten the nut. Remove the balancer belt.
  2. On all models except Prelude with VTEC, loosen the lockbolt installed earlier and the adjusting nut. Push on the tensioner to release the timing belt, then tighten the nut. Carefully remove the timing belt. On Prelude VTEC models, remove the timing belt from the pulleys, then remove the bolts securing the auto-tensioner. Remove the auto-tensioner from the engine.
To install:
  1. Check the position of the timing marks. The timing pointer must be perfectly aligned with the TDC (white mark) on the flywheel or flex-plate; the camshaft pulley must be aligned so that the word UP is at the top of the pulley and the marks on the edge of the pulley are aligned with the surfaces of the head. Additionally, the face of the front timing balancer pulley has a mark which must be aligned with the notch on the oil pump body. This pulley is the one to the left crank when viewed from the pulley end.
  2. Fit the timing belt over the pulleys and tensioner. On DOHC engines without VTEC, remove the 5mm pin punches from behind the cam pulleys.
  3. Except Prelude VTEC models:
    1. Temporarily install the crank pulley and bolt.
    2. Loosen the tensioner adjusting nut 1 turn, then tighten it. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until the camshaft pulley has moved 3 teeth to create tension on the belt. Loosen the nut again, then tighten it to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
Always rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise when viewed from the pulley end. Rotating it clockwise will cause improper adjustment and possible damage.
  1. On Prelude VTEC models:
    1. Hold the auto-tensioner with the maintenance bolt facing up. Loosen and remove the bolt.
Handle the tensioner carefully so the oil inside does not spill or leak. Replenish with clean engine oil if any does leak. Total capacity is1/4fl. oz. (8 ml).
  1. Make sure all timing marks are positioned correctly (as described earlier).
  2. Align the rear timing balancer pulley (to the right of the crank pulley) using a 6x100mm bolt or rod. Mark the bolt or rod at a point 2.913 in. (74mm) from the end. Remove the bolt from the maintenance hole on the side of the block; insert the rod into the hole. Align the 74mm mark with the face of the hole. This pin will hold the shaft in place during installation.
  3. Loosen the tensioner adjusting nut and verify that the timing balancer belt adjuster moves freely.
aa17346.gif Fig. 13: The balancer shaft must be held in position during timing belt installation
  1. Fit the balancer belt over the pulleys. Remove the bolt or rod from the maintenance hole.
  2. Temporarily install the crank pulley. Rotate the engine one turn counterclockwise, then tighten the tensioner adjusting nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). Double check the positions of the timing marks and make sure they still line up. If not remove the belts and repeat the procedures.
Both belt adjusters are spring-loaded to properly tension the belts. Do not apply any additional pressure to the pulleys or tensioners while performing the adjustment.
  1. Remove the crank pulley. Remove the lockbolt installed earlier on the timing belt adjuster arm. Install the maintenance bolt with a new washer. Tighten it to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
  2. Install the lower cover, making certain the rubber seals are in place and correctly located. Tighten the retaining bolts to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).
  3. If applicable, raise the lower beam and engine into place. Install the rear bolts for the lower beam. Tighten them to 28 ft. lbs. (39 Nm) on 1990-91 Accords, 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) on 1992-95 Accords and 43 ft. lbs. (60 Nm) on 1992-95 Preludes.
  4. Install the key on the crankshaft and install the crankshaft pulley. Apply oil to the bolt threads and tighten it to the following: 1991-93 Accord: 159 ft. lbs. (220 Nm)
  1. Install the dipstick tube and dipstick.
  2. Install the side engine mount (refer to engine removal and installation for procedures). Remove the jack from under the engine.
  3. Install the upper belt cover.
  4. Install the side engine mount support bracket if it was removed.
  5. Install the valve cover.
  6. Install the compressor and/or alternator drive belt; adjust the tension.
  7. Route the wiring harness over the valve cover and connect the wiring to the alternator.
  8. Install the power steering pump and install the belt.
  9. Reinstall the cruise control actuator. Connect the vacuum hose and the electrical connector.
  10. Double check all installation items, paying particular attention to loose hoses or hanging wires, untightened nuts, poor routing of hoses and wires (too tight or rubbing) and tools left in the engine area.
  11. Refill the engine coolant.
  12. Install the splash shield under the engine.
  13. Connect the negative battery cable.
  14. Start the engine, allowing it to idle. Check for any signs of leakage or any sound of the belts rubbing or binding.

Sep 20, 2010 | 1992 Honda Accord

1 Answer

How do you set the timming on a 95 honda accord


1990–95 4-Cylinder Accord and 1992–95 Prelude
  1. .
  2. Fig. 10: On all engines except VTEC, the belt adjuster arm must be locked in place using one of the lower cover mounting bolts 86803136.gif
    NOTE: There are two belts in this system; the one running to the camshaft pulley is the timing belt. The other, shorter one drives the balance shaft and is referred to as the balancer belt or timing balancer belt. Use a piece of chalk or a marker to place an identifying arrow on the belts. The arrow can identify the direction of rotation or the outer edge of the belts. The belts must be reinstalled so it moves in the same direction. Protect the belts from oil, coolant, etc. It's an even better idea to replace the belts at this point.
  3. Loosen the timing belt adjustment nut. Push on the tensioner to relieve tension from the balancer belt, then tighten the nut. Remove the balancer belt.
  4. On all models except Prelude with VTEC, loosen the lockbolt installed earlier and the adjusting nut. Push on the tensioner to release the timing belt, then tighten the nut. Carefully remove the timing belt. On Prelude VTEC models, remove the timing belt from the pulleys, then remove the bolts securing the auto-tensioner. Remove the auto-tensioner from the engine. To install:
  5. Check the position of the timing marks. The timing pointer must be perfectly aligned with the TDC (white mark) on the flywheel or flex-plate; the camshaft pulley must be aligned so that the word UP is at the top of the pulley and the marks on the edge of the pulley are aligned with the surfaces of the head. Additionally, the face of the front timing balancer pulley has a mark which must be aligned with the notch on the oil pump body. This pulley is the one to the left crank when viewed from the pulley end.
  6. Fit the timing belt over the pulleys and tensioner. On DOHC engines without VTEC, remove the 5mm pin punches from behind the cam pulleys.
  7. Except Prelude VTEC models:
    1. Temporarily install the crank pulley and bolt.
    2. Loosen the tensioner adjusting nut 1 turn, then tighten it. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until the camshaft pulley has moved 3 teeth to create tension on the belt. Loosen the nut again, then tighten it to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). NOTE: Always rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise when viewed from the pulley end. Rotating it clockwise will cause improper adjustment and possible damage.
    3. Tighten the lockbolt installed earlier to lock the timing belt adjuster arm. Remove the crank pulley.
  8. On Prelude VTEC models:
    1. Hold the auto-tensioner with the maintenance bolt facing up. Loosen and remove the bolt. NOTE: Handle the tensioner carefully so the oil inside does not spill or leak. Replenish with clean engine oil if any does leak. Total capacity is 1⁄4 fl. oz. (8 ml).
    2. Clamp the mounting flange of the tensioner in a vise using a cloth or blocks of wood to protect it. Insert a flat blade screwdriver into the maintenance hole. Place the stopper (tool number 14540-P13-003) or an equivalent clamp on the tensioner, then turn the screwdriver clockwise to compress the bottom. Be careful not to damage the threads or the gasket contact surface.
    3. Install the maintenance bolt on the tensioner with a new gasket. Tighten to 6 ft. lbs. (8 Nm).
    4. Make sure no oil is leaking from around the maintenance bolt, then install the tensioner on the engine. Make sure the stopper stays in place and tighten the bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
    5. Remove the stopper. Fig. 11: On VTEC engines, the tensioner must be compressed before installing it on the engine 86803137.gif
      Fig. 12: Remove the stopper after installing the tensioner on the engine 86803138.gif

  9. Make sure all timing marks are positioned correctly (as described earlier).
  10. Align the rear timing balancer pulley (to the right of the crank pulley) using a 6x100mm bolt or rod. Mark the bolt or rod at a point 2.913 in. (74mm) from the end. Remove the bolt from the maintenance hole on the side of the block; insert the rod into the hole. Align the 74mm mark with the face of the hole. This pin will hold the shaft in place during installation.
  11. Loosen the tensioner adjusting nut and verify that the timing balancer belt adjuster moves freely. Fig. 13: The balancer shaft must be held in position during timing belt installation 86803139.gif

  12. Fit the balancer belt over the pulleys. Remove the bolt or rod from the maintenance hole.
  13. Temporarily install the crank pulley. Rotate the engine one turn counterclockwise, then tighten the tensioner adjusting nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). Double check the positions of the timing marks and make sure they still line up. If not remove the belts and repeat the procedures. NOTE: Both belt adjusters are spring-loaded to properly tension the belts. Do not apply any additional pressure to the pulleys or tensioners while performing the adjustment.
  14. Remove the crank pulley. Remove the lockbolt installed earlier on the timing belt adjuster arm. Install the maintenance bolt with a new washer. Tighten it to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
  15. Install the lower cover, making certain the rubber seals are in place and correctly located. Tighten the retaining bolts to 9 ft. lbs. (12 Nm).
  16. If applicable, raise the lower beam and engine into place. Install the rear bolts for the lower beam. Tighten them to 28 ft. lbs. (39 Nm) on 1990–91 Accords, 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) on 1992–95 Accords and 43 ft. lbs. (60 Nm) on 1992–95 Preludes.
  17. Install the key on the crankshaft and install the crankshaft pulley. Apply oil to the bolt threads and tighten it to the following:
    • 1990 Accord: 166 ft. lbs. (230 Nm)
    • 1991–93 Accord: 159 ft. lbs. (220 Nm)
    • 1992–93 Prelude: 159 ft. lbs. (220 Nm)
    • 1994–95 Accord and Prelude: 181 ft. lbs. (245 Nm)
  18. Install the dipstick tube and dipstick.
  19. Install the side engine mount (refer to engine removal and installation for procedures). Remove the jack from under the engine.
  20. Install the upper belt cover.
  21. Install the side engine mount support bracket if it was removed.
  22. Install the valve cover.
  23. Install the compressor and/or alternator drive belt; adjust the tension.
  24. Route the wiring harness over the valve cover and connect the wiring to the alternator.
  25. Install the power steering pump and install the belt.
  26. Reinstall the cruise control actuator. Connect the vacuum hose and the electrical connector.
  27. Double check all installation items, paying particular attention to loose hoses or hanging wires, untightened nuts, poor routing of hoses and wires (too tight or rubbing) and tools left in the engine area.
  28. Refill the engine coolant.
  29. Install the splash shield under the engine.
  30. Connect the negative battery cable.
  31. Start the engine, allowing it to idle. Check for any signs of leakage or any sound of the belts rubbing or binding.

Jul 18, 2010 | 1995 Honda Accord

1 Answer

Lx, 4 cyl, AT...approaching 90,000 mi...when


90k miles, recommended to replace also the water pump, idler and tensioner pulleys. Shop costs (3hr labor) $450-$750 depending on their labor rate and parts price.

May 13, 2010 | 2000 Honda Accord

1 Answer

I can't find the Auto-tensioner on my 99 accord. Does it have one? If not, how do i get the belts off?


I think this is right, but…
Find someone to help you if you can. To help hold the new belt in place when you are putting it on.
Make a diagram of the way the belt fits over and around the pulleys on your car. Don’t thing that you are going to remember where it goes.
Locate the drive belt auto-tensioner on the upper part of the engine (see pic). The tensioner is an idler pulley, since it does not drive any accessory on your vehicle. Its only function is to give the belt its proper tension.
Insert a long boxed-end wrench on the auto-tensioner pulley bolt of the appropriate size (probably 14mm) and slowly turn the idler pulley to release the tension on the drive belt (you are not removing the bolt; you are turning the tensioner so you can get the belt off while you have it turned under pressure). If you have a 2.4L engine model (2.3 Vtec should be similar), turn the pulley clockwise; if you have a 3.0L engine model, turn the pulley counterclockwise. Slide the belt off any pulley located on the upper part of the engine while you have the tensioner under pressure; then slowly release the tensioner pulley and remove the belt from the engine.
Check every pulley run by the drive belt and make sure they are free of dirt, debris and built-up material.
Compare the old belt to the new one and make sure it is of the same width and configuration.
Install the new belt beginning with the crankshaft pulley at the bottom and center of the engine and work your way up to the last pulley; follow your notes or the routing diagram on the engine compartment. If necessary, ask your helper to hold the belt stretched next to the last pulley on the upper part of the engine. Using the boxed-end wrench, slowly rotate the auto-tensioner pulley in the same direction you turned it to release the belt. Then slide the belt over the last pulley, and slowly release the auto-tensioner.
Make sure the belt is properly seated between the flanges of every accessory pulley.
0ca960f.jpg

Oct 30, 2009 | 1998 Honda Accord

1 Answer

My 2005 Honda accord has started to whine on acceleration. At first I thought there was something wrong with my automatic transmission, but a friend pointed out that the whining goes away when I shut the...


Possibly the bearings in the idler pulley or the A/C pully. The pulley will eventually stop working and the belt will wind up breaking. Make sure you do not drive it after the belt breaks since I cant tell you off the top of my head what else is on that pulley. Have a look under the hood, a/c on, then a/c off... (while accelerating.) and see if you can determine which pully it is. If you're handy you may be able to replace the pulley. Parts are affordable at your local auto parts store where I would also suggest purchasing the Chiltons manual for your car.

Jul 30, 2009 | 2005 Honda Accord

1 Answer

Whining noise


Could be a few things:

Belt slipping- adjusted through tensioning bolt on bottom of power steering pump

Pulleys- take off belt and hand turn pulleys. Find one that gives resistance and possible makes the whining noise. It's probably the idler pulley.

Feb 12, 2009 | 1994 Jeep Cherokee Country

1 Answer

Engine whine noise


most likely a belt tensioner or pulley take some penetrating oil and spray the center of each pulley one at a time if the noise stops you got your bad pulley if not take the belts off the motor and spin everything by hand to feel or hear any grinding noises if you still don't feel anything run the motor (not for more then a minute) with the belts off and if the noise is still apparent your timing belt needs to be checked right away! it may be on its way out and if that goes your motor is toast good luck and please rate -jeff

Sep 05, 2008 | 1998 Honda Civic

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